The Reality Of Modelling Over 50: The Local Faces Challenging The Status Quo

Dan Ahwa talks to four local models in their 50s and 70s who are all redefining what it means to age gracefully in a society still obsessed with looking young.

If there’s one thing fashion likes to do, it’s to wax lyrical about the 1990s.

It’s an era I haven’t been able to shake off from the creatives before me who still go on about the good old days of big hair and big budgets. But as a conduit between them and generation now, I often wonder – was it really that amazing, or did people just get away with a lot more?

In the recent documentary In Vogue: The 90s showing now on Disney+, the six-part series is like looking at a time capsule of an era in the global fashion industry when so many transgressions were blindly ignored; from the problematic “heroin-chic” look to the industry’s blatant lack of diversity, the rose-tinted lens in which so many of these nostalgia trips occur can be a reminder that while there has been some slight progress, in an era of Ozempic bodies and the type of conservative values that generally sit incongruous with the fashion industry’s more progressive point of view, there is still work to be done.

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The era is synonymous with the 90s supermodels we’ve come to know on a first-name basis: Linda, Naomi, Christy, and Cindy. For the September 2023 US Vogue cover, they appeared on the cover, now in their 50s, looking wrinkle-free. While they have all aged well, the further use of retouching to smooth out natural fine lines re-ignited the debate about whether a youth-obsessed industry was holding on to unrealistic beauty standards.

In an AI-generated age, are models allowed to age or do they just get airbrushed? Do models over 50 get booked for a range of diverse work or are they typecast? How do you redefine the importance of ageing with dignity in a time where the public is exposed to the likes of tech entrepreneur Bryan Johnson spending millions a year trying to reduce his biological age; or the way in which celebrities such as Christina Aguilera and Lindsay Lohan have seamlessly reversed visible signs of ageing with almost undetectable work?

Four local models over the age of 50, represented by agent Rebecca Swaney of specialist Australian and New Zealand modelling agency Silverfox Management, share their experiences of navigating the industry and explain why, even as they head towards 60, they are booked and busier than ever; along with the work they have done to help foster a positive modelling industry for the next generation of talent.

As one of New Zealand’s leading and consistently busy models, Amanda’s recent renaissance in her late 50s is a promising barometer of the local fashion industry’s commitment to age inclusivity, appearing in campaigns for the likes of Juliette Hogan and walking her first runway show in May at Australian Fashion Week for the Mastani label. As an accomplished photographer and artist, modelling is just one creative outlet for this multi-talent.

Having modelled for over 40 years, Amanda explains that in contrast to today’s expectations of models trying to build their profiles on social media, she came through an industry where a model’s personal life was sacrosanct. Hailing from Cromwell from a family of seven, Amanda entered Miss Central Otago with her older sister, and recalls that moment as her ticket out of town, packing her suitcases for Wellington where she was signed to local agency C.I One Models, before being signed to one of New Zealand’s leading modelling agent and founder of the Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards, Maysie Bestall-Cohen.

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In 1995, at 28 (already considered “old” by modelling industry standards), Amanda was signed to one of the biggest modelling agencies, Ford Models, founded by Eileen Ford and her husband Gerard W. Ford. Eileen, known for her bluntness, told Amanda at the time, ‘Everyone has a story, but we don’t need to hear about it’

“Eileen Ford’s advice to keep personal stories under wraps was a reflection of her era, where the modelling industry was less about personal narratives and more about presenting an untouchable image of beauty. But today, this approach feels somewhat fake. In the current age, models and influencers leverage their personal stories as part of their brand, connecting with audiences on a more human level” says Amanda.

“For me, her advice was less about silencing us and more about focusing on the job at hand. While I understand there were times to keep personal issues private, the industry has, thankfully, evolved. Today, it wouldn’t go down quite like that; there’s a demand for transparency and relatability. Models now have the freedom to share their struggles and triumphs, which not only humanises them but also fosters a deeper connection with their audience. This shift from Ford’s era to today’s reality highlights a broader societal change toward empathy, inclusivity, and the democratisation of beauty narratives.”

But while Amanda has done everything from campaign work to runway and even gone behind the scenes as a photographer and a mentor to other New Zealand models, she says the job still has its unexpected twists and turns.

“The most surreal moment came unexpectedly this year when I went viral on Instagram for an unconventional photoshoot with the English brand Bluebella. Initially hesitant, I agreed to model and self-photograph their lingerie after learning Marie Helvin in her late 70s, an OG from my modelling youth, had been their muse to launch their brand.

As one of the major changes to the profession from when she first began, models now have to deal with the amplified scrutiny that comes with social media.

“You really need a thick skin if you’re to survive this industry, for all its beauty and sometimes, rather ugly. Luckily, the vast majority of people’s comments were overwhelmingly positive.

“The true surreal twist came when the London Daily Star caught wind of it, leading to a headline that read, ‘Mature model wows as she proudly shows off pubic hair in sheer lingerie.’ It was unintentionally hilarious and a stark reminder of how media can focus on the most trivial aspects. But for me, it was about representing women of my age with authenticity, not conforming to infantile standards of beauty.

“The experience was a mix of amusement, validation, and a bit of rebellion against industry ‘norms’.”

As for advice for younger models, Amanda offers up some sage advice.

“Firstly, never let the idea of someone being more famous or ‘better’ deter you. Celebrity lineage doesn’t inherently make someone a better role model. Instead, choose to focus on being the best version of yourself. Because that’s all you actually ever have control of.

“Be adaptable. Having the ability to evolve with the industry, adapting to changes in beauty standards, building other things you can do and are passionate about. Then there’s navigating personal growth - like ageing gracefully in front of the camera, sharing wisdom and lessons learned, all of which has proven invaluable for me and reflects a profound success. It’s about staying relevant and true to oneself.

“Making an impact by representing diversity, challenging beauty norms, or promoting inclusivity can redefine success. Being recognised for breaking barriers or representing underrepresented groups contributes to a broader cultural shift, which too, is success in its own right.

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“Regarding digital presence, which I’m still navigating myself, my experience in aiming for a more natural and flowing interaction in front of the camera has been key. We’re in a time when our digital footprint isn’t confined by geography; it’s global. Being from New Zealand offers advantages—our landscapes are epic, providing a unique backdrop that’s hard to replicate.

“So, my advice? Embrace your authenticity, leverage your unique background, utilise your resources and share what’s abundantly available to you. Take advantage of the digital world not only to showcase where you come from or your individuality and talent, show who you are, what you stand for and what you want for the world. The global stage is yours if you dare to step onto it.”

Fashion has been such a big part of my life...It’s not just about clothes or the runway; it’s about raising three beautiful children under clothes racks, during photoshoots, and backstage. This industry has shaped me into who I am today, serving as a platform and playground for my creative passions and projects.

Starting with a dream of becoming a model, I’ve evolved into much more than that - I’ve proved I’m not just a survivor, I’m thriving.

The fashion world, much like a riverbed...Has seen its terrain change over time. It’s an institution that not only dictates trends but curates our social narratives. I left school at 16, undiagnosed with dyslexia, and relied solely on my vision and desire to grace runways and magazine covers.

I began organising my own fashion shows from a young age, going on to model which eventually led to a fulfilling career. I ventured into film as a makeup artist, juggling multiple roles because one path alone could not sustain me either financially or creatively, especially during times of industry challenges and changes, and financial hardship.

My journey wasn’t without its dark moments...I faced exploitation both in business and personally, including a traumatic experience at 17 that haunted me for years. Yet, I chose to channel my experiences into empowerment. After retiring from modelling and earning an honours degree in visual communication photography, I founded Catwalk Studios. I conducted model workshops, including self-defence sessions, and creative secondary school internships, focusing on professionalism and the vulnerabilities tied to beauty and the industry. I’ve signed models under my care with local/international agents and I’ve loved seeing them go on to do amazing things. It’s not just career-changing, it’s life-changing.

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Three of my proudest examples are Jordan Daniels who I placed with 62 Models, Katie Holcroft signed with IMG Paris and Shannon Ryan who is an actor/presenter. I’ve loved throwing the ladder down and contributing to growing New Zealand models who’ve ended up storming catwalks and magazine around the world.

This past decade, I took a step back from the industry for personal growth...Dismantling the walls I’d built around myself and challenging my identity.

As is often the case in this industry, so much rests on timing. The call back into modelling through Silverfox Models, who loudly champion the #AgePositive movement, was unexpected but welcomed. I now find myself as in-demand as ever, being flown across New Zealand, Sydney, and Melbourne regularly.

The industry has not only shaped me, but taught me the value of grit, perseverance and self-belief ... It’s a reminder to all young women they are worthy, capable, and deserving of their dreams, no matter the setbacks. You just need to make sure what you want is in line with what you have to offer.

Rob Ipsen, 52

As one of the country’s handful of male models over 50, Rob’s background in brand events and the experiential industry has served him well in his work as a model. He’s also a familiar face as commercial talent, also represented by ODD Management and appearing in a range of TV adverts including Farmers and Toyota.

Rob’s mixed-race background of a Dutch mother and Indonesian father is evident in his striking features, with an approachability found in his diverse range of working, appearing in a range of campaigns including No.1 Shoes/Hannahs, menswear subscription brand Asuwere, and lifestyle campaigns for Church Road Winery, Wawata Estate Waiheke Island and Hot Springs Spa. “I have lots of favourite memories of working on campaigns which I am super grateful for, but if I had to pick one, it would probably be shooting a campaign for a brandy commercial in Queenstown where I got to work with a very charismatic and artistic French director who had such a unique and creative process. I learnt so much in the art of creating style and nuance for every scene – the set, wardrobe and locations were high-end, but what made it memorable was working with such talented people to create a beautifully shot campaign.”

With a passion for health and fitness, Rob says taking care of himself has helped him navigate a long-term career in modelling in the local and international industry.

“I think New Zealand’s fashion industry stands out for a variety of reasons, especially in the realm of men’s fashion. There’s always this strong connection to nature so this translates into the use of more diverse and sustainable materials used in clothing. I love the outdoors so I’m a big fan of outdoor gear/clothing and New Zealand has some inventive and innovative clothing brands that are also internationally valued and recognised. Plus, you can’t forget the cultural influences that make New Zealand creations unique on the world stage.”

I’ve never felt a disadvantage working as a male model... I’ve always strongly believed in looking after my wellbeing and taking a holistic approach to all aspects of life. I truly believe that we create our reality, and any perceived challenges or disadvantages are opportunities for learning and growth and to know oneself better on a deeper level.

My advice for the next generation of male models... Is to simply embrace your uniqueness and trust your talent. Prioritise looking after your wellbeing and self-growth, develop a growth mindset enjoy the process of being the unique human that you are, and of course, don’t forget to have fun. I understand that modelling, like any creative art of expression, can be competitive on many levels. We face challenges in all aspects of our lives so it’s important to have a good support network and know that any challenges have a solution. For younger models wanting to break into the industry, and being overseas, focus on being you and being your authentic self- that’s your greatest gift! Being a Kiwi overseas already gives you an edge.

There is a lot of pressure with social media... modellingo focus on the metrics of followers, engagement etc. and I understand it’s a valuable tool to market oneself. However, when it comes down to the job, nothing beats face-to-face connection and the ability to ultimately work and collaborate with people professionally.

Focus on getting the simple things right, and your greatest influence can be in those little moments when you connect with people and build ongoing working relationships. And remember fame is temporary and something not worth pursuing in of itself - rewards happen through being consistent and professional, so let the experiences you have through modelling be what matters most.

Banké Moss, 50

As a corporate manager, the world of modelling provides a unique dichotomy for Banké who has also dedicated the past decade volunteering for Dress for Success, focusing her passion for organisation, inspiring and empowering clients.

With a solid portfolio of modelling credits that includes featuring in campaigns for Mi Piaci, Ayrburn Queenstown, Zoe & Morgan Jewellery and Trilogy, Banké has also appeared on the runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. After ignoring interest and requests about modelling, personal circumstances led to her recent foray into modelling.

“It took my mum’s sudden passing in 2020 to reframe my mindset and seize the opportunities presented” she recalls. “You only get one chance at living so I decided to make the most of every opportunity and after a few suggestions, it was suggested that I sign up with an agency that specifically works with mature models, and that started my side hustle modelling.”

With a degree in sociology and psychology, she’s a well-balanced personality to navigate the sometimes complex nature of the fashion industry.

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“Being socially conscientious plays a huge part, because I feel it’s important to align what I do with my values, while navigating the fashion industry. Being socially aware of my environment and understanding the different dynamics is also helpful” she explains. “I can anticipate what is required of me from clients to engage with the products or items that I am to work with and delivering what is required. After all we live in a world that constantly judges with pre-conceived perceptions. Being able to adapt and ‘read’ the room, when I turn up for a job. Not knowing fully what is expected, but having the ability to morph into character when needed.”

Not everyone I know is aware that I do modelling and talent work...So some get quite a surprise and send images of campaigns I‘ve worked on, asking me to confirm it’s me. It gives me a warm feeling, especially when it reconnects me with friends I haven’t heard from in a while and reading their comments, such as seeing my face for the recent Trilogy tinted moisturiser brought a smile to their day. People also like seeing the positiveness that each campaign brings highlighting the evolving landscape of mature models across cultures also. Plus, for me personally, it’s me seeing my mum, because everyone always commented on how much I resembled her, so I get to see her looking back at me.

My favourite job so far ...The Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2024, meeting other mature models from different walks of life, and also getting to walk the runway with the amazing Silverfox Australia talent, we had so much fun and I made such great connections with some models who inspire me today. It was quite an audience, but I felt very comfortable being surrounded by the positive energy of other mature women who have journeyed through life, and made a decision to either resume their modelling career or take the plunge.

We’re seeing a shift but it’s a small shift...Diversity within different backgrounds help to tell a story from life experiences not just one dimensional. New Zealand has a large cross-section of cultures and they should be exemplified to feel inclusive.

When it comes to personal style and self-expression... Be courageous and have fun. Style doesn’t have to be a uniform, explore different styles, skip the mainstream trends for some sustainable circular shopping that can reap rewards, and help you create your own style without breaking the bank.

If you feel a little down, ‘dress up’ to elevate your mood. Don’t be pigeonholed because of your age and what society expects from you. Experiment and get to understand your body shape and accept what you are, from there comes confidence. There are many inspirational people out there to pull ideas from, feel free to create your own unique signature style, which will be timeless. Wear what feels right and comfortable for you.

I have been a volunteer, and recent board member at Dress for Success Auckland, an organisation that provides a wraparound service to empower women from all walks of life to succeed, and one of the services is dressings. I thoroughly enjoy listening and helping the women select items to try and sometimes they themselves get a surprise when an ensemble has been put together that they wouldn’t normally wear. That’s the fun in fashion, breaking out of your comfort zone, and feeling great with the metamorphosis.

I continue to op shop and loved op shopping in the UK, and would always find amazing pieces to add to my wardrobe and mix with my high-street purchases to create my own unique timeless look. I still own items of clothing that are over 30 years old, and love that my young adults from time to time loan items from my wardrobe. I have had comments that I don’t appear to wear the same item twice, however, it’s all about playing with combinations of textures, colours and print, and sizing of clothes to create different looks. I’ll never get bored of experimenting with fashion.

Lesley Kaiser, 76

As one of the country’s oldest models, Lesley’s redefining what it means to be a model with a prolific background working as an artist, author and as a former senior lecturer at AUT University in Communication Design. Her modelling work in her 70s has seen her working for a range of brands traditionally geared toward a younger demographic including appearing in a shoot for local streetwear brand YouKNow Clothing, a Remix magazine editorial and a campaign shoot for Moochi.

“I learned so much from my mother Gwen Kaiser, who was a costume and set designer in London where I was born in 1948″ says Lesley.

“From a very early age I loved being backstage at dress-rehearsals of local dramatIc productions, and developing a love of fabrics, and costumes, and lighting, colour gels and makeup etc. I also learnt ballet, and many forms of dance, from the age of 4 to 14 and loved dancing on the stage at the recitals. Gwen designed the costumes and cut them out in bulk for all dancers.”

“When we moved to NZ when I was 10 years old, I kept up my love of dancing and being on stage. I have always loved learning new skills and activities. In my final year at school in Wellington I gained the drama cup, and a fencing cup. I continued acting at university in Wellington and also Auckland University, and these experiences have been a fantastic base to pick up acting and fashion modelling with Silverfox Management NZ in my 70s.”

Working with a new generation of creatives has also been an opportunty for this academic to learn from a new cohort redefining what the local industry looks like today and into the future.

“I enjoy going to new places, meeting new people, and staying active and engaged. I love learning new skills and always learn something from the expertise of those around me on each shoot. It helps that my agent Rebecca of Silverfox MGMT runs confidence-boosting training and feedback sessions for all aspects of modelling, including auditioning, posing, and runway practice, which fosters confidence and a sharing and supportive ethos. I’ve learnt a lot from the generosity of other models and made some good friends. I have been so lucky to work with teams of new [and also very experienced] creatives who are internationally and nationally recognised as leaders in their fields. The photographers, editors-in-chief, directors, stylists, hairdressers and make-up artists all know how to work their magic and make me look and feel great.

I have always been curious and eager to try new things, learn new skills, and research new areas of experience...As my dad would say, “A problem is an opportunity with its sleeves rolled up.” Creativity to me involves a certain level of optimism, and accepting failure as an important part of the learning experience - ”Fail again, Fail better”. It means letting your imagination run free and experimenting with new combinations and embracing random opportunities to think outside the square. Also being open to new perspectives and people. There is also something to be said for Thomas Edison’s “1% inspiration 99% perspiration” aspect of creativity, as there is always an element of tenacity and working hard in order to come up with really outstanding solutions.

My advice for people in their 70s to express themselves... My advice would be to “Buy less, choose well”, as Vivienne Westwood famously advised, and to go for simple classic styles, with natural fabrics that hang well and age well with you. Wear things you like. Keep fit and err on wearing a size bigger, rather too form-hugging. Let your hair go silver/grey. Do what makes you feel good and then you are more likely to look good. Be kind. Be authentic. Stick with your principles and be an individual. I find being a vegan, and enjoying exercise naturally keeps me comfortable with my body, osteoarthritis and all. I use clothing to express myself by following my own advice, sticking to timeless classics, and hanging on to clothes till they come back into fashion .

I am lucky to have a very supportive husband and extended family, and to have had nothing but supportive feedback overall...Perhaps I don’t hear from those who are surprised and critical of this change in career direction (from being an artist/author/academic teaching Communication Design at AUT for 26 years!). I am always stoked when I meet a former student of mine on set who remembers me with fondness and appreciation from my teaching years ago. This happens surprisingly often, whether they are in the role of director, art director etc. It’s a small world in the industry in New Zealand, and creatives get to know each other and some also remember working with my mum or my daughter Kezia (who is an artist/film director). So overall, it feels wonderful to get this feedback and still to be part of this wider collective.

Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in fashion, luxury, arts and culture. He is also an award-winning stylist with more than 17 years of experience, and is a co-author and co-curator of The New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now.

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