In an industry dominated by nepo babies, Ozempic faces and AI, these local models cut through the noise — locally and internationally.
Cheese and wine. Milk and butter. Rachel Hunter and Georgia Fowler.
As an agricultural, grassroots nation at heart, it’s sometimes bemusing to add fashion
But as our track record proves, we have an uncanny ability to find great talent who have gone on to do incredibly well internationally while remaining down to earth. It’s the reason why people love working with New Zealanders in general.
Some of our successful model ‘exports’ include Kylie Bax, who went from growing up on her parents’ horse-breeding farm in Thames to the click-clack of mules on parquet floors in Paris and Milan in the 90s, gracing the covers of Vogue and Marie Claire and being photographed for Versace campaigns by Richard Avedon.
We saw this with Ashleigh Good, who was a muse for Karl Lagerfeld during the late 2010s and appeared in countless magazine editorials and campaigns for the likes of Max Mara, Prada and Fendi, and who this year graced our 25th-anniversary birthday edition.
This year on AppleTV+ we were taken on a nostalgia trip with the documentary The Supermodels, taking a riotous journey down memory lane with the four women who shifted the power imbalance of the modeling industry in the late 80s and early 90s — Cindy, Naomi, Linda and Christy — the singularly named glamazons who celebrated individuality before it petered out in the late 90s and early 2000s when the problematically termed ‘heroin chic’ ushered in a parade of gaunt models led by Kate Moss.
The look also found parallels at the peak of TMZ tabloid headlines and celebritydom obsessed with diet culture, before we shifted into the late 2010s when casting directors would only ever put forward models mostly from Eastern Bloc nations in an attempt to phase out those big personalities from the previous decade and offer something of a blank canvas for clothes to hang from.
And like any pendulum swing in culture and politics, the small progress that has been made with size inclusivity and seeing people living with disabilities on the runway and on the cover of magazines is now being threatened by the thorny return of that early 2000s look, attributed in part to the renaissance of Y2K fashion. It’s partly the reason why ‘Ozempic face’ has entered the fashion and beauty lexicon this year at a worrying speed.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.Phoebe Philo, a designer who redefined a minimalist aesthetic in the late 2010s as creative director of Celine, made a return to fashion after a six-year hiatus with her eponymous line of limited-edition fashion. The launch was a reminder of how such an influential designer — much like her contemporary Hedi Slimane (who is the current ‘image director’ at Celine) — has never truly showcased diverse bodies on the runway. Philo’s inability to read the room was also reinforced by the fact she launched her collection in a month when the Israel and Hamas conflict was rife.
In February, Vanessa Friedman, the fashion director of The New York Times, tweeted: “Even I am distracted by the extreme skinniness of many of the models in Jason Wu’s show.”
When her comment opened up a floodgate of debate, she later tweeted, “I have been around a lot of eating disorders in my life, as well as lots of naturally thin people, and the difference between the two is not hard to recognise. I can tell you at least two of the models fell into this category. The point was not to shame the models, but to call attention to the issue. I really believe it is time fashion reflects the whole clothes-wearing population, in race, gender, size and age.”
This year we also saw the rise of the ‘non-model’, everyday faces finding popularity on social media, especially TikTok, like Jill Kortleve, who at 5″8 and wearing a US ‘midsize’ 10, is part of a wave of models being cast in shows, yet still underrepresented. Much like several plus-size models, the ‘mid-size’ models are still an anomaly.
“The landscape of women’s fashion is inaccessible to many body types not because we don’t understand how big or small the ‘average woman’ is,” explained Renee Engeln, director of the Body and Media Lab at Northwestern University, in an interview for The New York Times in February. “It is because major players in the fashion industry still choose to exclude women whose bodies are inconsistent with the brand image they want to cultivate.”
As Friedman noted more recently, while racial inclusivity had improved, the promise of better representation of sizes was sadly non-existent this year. According to Vogue Business, “5.6 per cent of looks” in the fall 2023 shows, which took place in February and March, were between U.S. size 0 and 4. Only 0.6 per cent were plus size (defined as size 14 and up; the remaining 3.8 per cent were midsize, or size 6 to 12).
“In the most recent spring 2024 shows, held in September and October, 0.9 per cent of the models were plus size, while 3.9 per cent were midsize. That doesn’t even begin to take into account the narrow representations of age and physical ability.”
The rise of AI
This year’s focus on skinny bodies also coincided with artificial intelligence. Campaigns, editorials and social media influencers generated by AI contributed to an already deflated fashion industry where creatives behind the scenes are already struggling to find work.
A Black model with her ‘likeness’ was generated by one local fashion magazine for a fashion ‘shoot’ entirely created by AI. It was admirable to see how magazines can test the creative boundaries and capabilities of an AI-generated fashion shoot at a time when budgets are being slashed, but it also denied the actual model her chance to showcase her talent in what should have been a true representation of individuality. Adding to this complex layer, there are already few and far opportunities for models of colour to be represented in mainstream media authentically, and this experiment only highlighted the industry’s lack of due diligence.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.As public-facing figures, models are often hired by brands and designers to sell their vision to a target audience, and can often make or break sales; in some cases, inadvertently dealing with backlash. Just this month, veteran model Kristin McMenamy found herself the unwilling recipient of outrage after appearing in a Zara campaign surrounded by statues covered in plaster and paint, their bodies wrapped in body bags reminiscent of the bodies of innocent dead civilians in Gaza.
As we take a moment to reflect on the year that was, the reality of modelling may not be what it used to be in an era dominated by influencer culture and the power imbalance fostered by casting directors; however, there were a handful of local faces that did make a positive impact in helping redefine the potential of our talent. From Australian Fashion Week, where I took a look at the New Zealand faces that made an impression on the Australian market, to Emma Gleason’s update on the state of our local modelling industry ahead of this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria, we saw an array of models who stood out for their professionalism, the high calibre of their work both locally and internationally, and of course, their ability to cut through the noise with a look.
Model Of The Year
When we first caught up with Noah in Sydney during Australian Fashion Week, the Ōtautahi model explained how he was scouted by his mother agency The Scouted in 2021 by industry stalwart Simone Hellicar. Represented by Unique Model Management New Zealand, Kult in Sydney and Next Models internationally, Noah’s big breakthrough this year came when he had his Milan Fashion Week runway debut walking alongside the likes of Kendall Jenner and Claudia Schiffer at Versace’s spring/summer 2024 show. A fresh face that represents the times, we hope that this momentum continues for Noah in 2024.
The Modern Icon
Since starting in the industry almost seven years ago, Te Manahou Ahiataewa Mackay has carved her own lane when it comes to the local modeling industry. After some time in London and Sydney, it was heartwarming to reconnect with Manahou recently back home in New Zealand where she is spending time with family. Most recently, her cameo in the latest Zambesi 1975 fragrance campaign was a reminder of her local icon status. Much like those supermodels of the 90s, Manahou is an assertive, intelligent creative who is invested in the collaborative process of whatever project she finds herself doing, whether it’s on the cover of Vogue Australia or Russh. Manahou can pick and choose projects that serve her and her community well, and like all good model icons, we look forward to seeing Manahou expanding into other areas in 2024 and beyond. There’s a reason why her name Te Manahou translates to ‘the new power’.
The Class Act
The Viva Magazine – Volume Five cover star and granddaughter of iconic Samoan poet and artist Albert Wendt has been spending time honing her craft as a soprano in London alongside her husband Benson who is also an award-winning opera singer. The duo shared their beautiful wedding day with us this year, and this year the couple made waves as they walked together down the runway for Zambesi during New Zealand Fashion Week. Modelling-wise, Isabella has made the most of her base in London, travelling throughout Europe and working for a range of brands specific to the market, which has helped expose Isabella to a diverse mix of businesses and creatives in that region.
The International Superstar
Holly is no stranger to Viva, having appeared on the cover of our weekly edition at the very start of her modeling career in 2014 and twice more after that; along with her solo cover for our quarterly magazine Viva Magazine – Volume Four in 2021. She’s worked for major international fashion brands including Prada — making her runway debut for the Italian brand a decade ago in 2013 — before walking for Valentino, Armani, Chanel and more. Over the years, Holly has remained steadfast in her commitment to modeling, taking a break in between, before returning to full force in 2020 where she discussed with Viva her relationship with her body over the years. As reported in that interview, a 2012 Stuff article angling her as the ‘next big thing’ unhealthily painted her 36kg weight loss as a sign of self-discipline and focus. Questions from other media ranged from how she prepared “beauty, diet and health-wise” for a major shoot, to how her career was impacted by having to “work at your body”.
These days, she’s taking it all in her stride, with 2023 one of her busiest years to date, starting the year strong by appearing on the January 2023 cover of Harper’s Bazaar alongside another modeling legend, Gemma Ward, as well as appearing in a global campaign for Clavin Klein and Skims. She’s also a runway fixture, walking for several shows across London and New York, and her versatility is something that translates well from print editorial to runway. With a decade-long career, Holly is one of our more successful models in recent times who continues to display the type of staying power and sense of groundedness that makes her a unique force within the industry.
The Business Mogul
We can’t discuss New Zealand models of 2023 who made an impact without considering the career trajectory of Jessica Clark. From her early days flying the flag for New Zealand models on the runway for Victoria’s Secret, to her life in London dating David Beckham’s best friend and manager David Gardner, what’s always been refreshing about Jessica is that she has always remained the same person. Managing to dovetail between the new world of model/‘influencer’, Jess’s playful personality has served her well within the posh cabals of London’s high society. More impressive, though, is her business of selling mushrooms — specifically through her wellness business Mother Made. Earlier this year she spoke with Viva beauty editor Ashleigh Cometti about the business she co-founded in 2021 with best friend Emily Blanchett. Together, the duo is pioneering the charge for medicinal mushrooms in Aotearoa through their selection of mushroom-centric wellness powders and supplements. The Viva cover star has also had a great year starring in jewellery designer Jessica McCormack’s new diamond campaign, Carmela, captured by legendary fashion photographer Ellen Von Unwerth.
The Most Versatile
Whether it’s a campaign for Georgia Jay bags, Elle & Riley cashmere or Harris Tapper, Mia was everywhere this year in the local market. Represented locally by 62 Management, Mia’s versatility also made her one of this year’s standouts at New Zealand Fashion Week, walking for the likes of Zambesi and Kate Sylvester. Being able to offer a sense of versatility is a key advantage when you’re in the modeling industry, and Mia can easily segue between emerging designer brands and established local luxury with a sense of ease. Although she has yet to appear in Viva, we look forward to the possibility of collaborating with Mia on a shoot that will open up the opportunity for reinvention.
The Leading Lady
When Rewa Harker walks into a room, heads turn. It’s the reason why she was one of this year’s standouts at New Zealand Fashion Week, showcasing particular support for our local Māori fashion contingent, lending her graceful presence to the collections at Bobby Campbell Luke, Lontessa and Kaistor St. She’s also appeared in several major advertising campaigns this year including natural skincare brand Manuka RX, Farmers and Specsavers. The previous Viva cover star is the consummate professional and leads by example, whether on a shoot set or backstage before a high-pressured runway show. What I love about Rewa is that she is someone who understands the value of having Māori creativity celebrated within the fashion industry, and as an adult graduate with a bachelor of arts in Māori development from AUT, her presence has helped normalise rather than tokenise Māori creatives in the fashion industry.
The Girl-Next-Door
Represented locally by Super MGMT, Grace’s versatility has made her one of the country’s most diligent performers, working consistently since giving full-time modelling a try over a year ago. This pivotal decision has helped her secure a reputable agent in Sydney, Priscillas, and is instrumental in having helped set Grace up with consistent work in that market. Grace has also had some success in Tokyo where she was featured in a Lee Jeans campaign, along with a 10-page solo editorial spread for Numero. She has also recently signed with Elite Paris, Milan and London and is set to travel there next year to continue modelling.
The Dark Horse
With her signature mane of raven hair and pencil-sharp brows, Ursula exudes the kind of ‘it’ factor that only cool girls about town have. Represented by Self Agency, we love Ursula’s personal style. As her agent Franca Chase explains, “Ursula has worked several jobs this year, which is great, especially for a short queen!” Her most memorable moment was when she was cast for Benjamin Alexander’s show earlier this year. She’s appeared in campaigns for Frisson Knits, Penny Sage and walked for Heather Brennan Evans’ runway show, so we love that her jobs reflect her authentic vibe.
The Avant-Garde Muse
We first met Mia for Viva Magazine – Volume Eight in 2022, photographed by Nicole Brannen. Since then, the Waiheke native has lent a certain bohemian spirit to her work, often collaborating with up-and-coming designers and photographers. It’s the reason why she’s able to carry off more avant-garde looks. Represented in New Zealand by Unique Models, Mia has spent some time in Sydney working consistently with a range of brands, and was one of the breakout stars at Australian Fashion Week in May. With an editorial feature in Vogue Australia and Harper’s Bazaar, this is one versatile editorial star we’re excited to see go further in 2024.
The Bombshell
One of a handful of blonde models in the market, Lily’s beachy sensibility has seen her in some playful editorials this year. She also travelled to Las Vegas this year to shoot with Kourtney Kardashian’s Boohoo collaboration. Represented locally by 62 Management, Kult Australia and Elite in London, there’s more to come from this rising star.
The Breakout Star
The local engineering student was scouted by his agency Super MGMT in January and was hesitant. However, during the year it was clear that there was a demand. Signed officially by his agency in February, Matthew was consistently working within a month. By August he signed to Kult in Australia and started working in Sydney. During that stint, he was photographed for a diverse range of editorial work including Grazia and the Australian Financial Review, along with high-profile work for Le Specs and David Jones. In November he walked his first show ever — Louis Vuitton mens pre-fall 2024 in Hong Kong, which further catapulted Matthew to an international audience, making him a true breakout star.
The Power Player
As one of several models who made an appearance on multiple runways at New Zealand Fashion Week this year, Chelsea Pita (Ngāti Tūwharetoa, Ngāti Rangitihi), radiated a natural confidence, whether it was coming down the runway at the Jockey show or wearing a look from Viva Next Gen designer Nicole van Vuuren. Represented by All Is For All, Chelsea’s five-show inclusion at Fashion Week was a powerful presence that reminded the industry of how far it has come, and how far it has to go to truly incorporate the values of inclusion every day. Chelsea has also branched out beyond fashion, appearing in campaigns for Southern Cross mental health and Monday haircare. She is also a powerful voice and advocate for accessible vocational training with her role in a campaign for the Tertiary Education Commission NZ.
The Editorial Queen
The Viva Magazine – Volume Seven star has had a successful year travelling the world, and when we caught up with Lucy back in 2022, the Nelson native had her feet planted firmly on the ground.
“The best piece of advice someone has given me is from my grandad, Wi-Fa. He would always tell my mum (his daughter) and she told me when I was growing up: “Do whatever makes you happy (as long as you ain’t hurting anyone). This piece of advice has influenced my life by encouraging me to always continue pursuing the career that I love even when big roadblocks arise, or it doesn’t seem realistic and achievable, because at the end of the day modelling is what makes me happiest.”
This year, Lucy’s editorial prowess saw her appear in a diverse range of top-tier shoots working alongside some of the world’s leading creatives including the covers for Russh, 10 Magazine USA and SSAW Magazine, along with editorial spreads for Vogue Hong Kong and Vogue Poland. Represented by Elite Models, The Society NYC and Chadwick Models in Sydney, Lucy’s ability to balance editorial work for both commercial and indie magazines displays a versatility that will no doubt set her up for an even bigger and better 2024.
The Commercial Queen
2023 has been a busy commercial year for Beatrys. While she easily lends herself well to more experimental editorial, Beatrys thrives well in a diverse range of commercial work including starring in campaigns for Glassons, Bras N Things, Napoleon, Style Runner and Emma Muholland. She’s also had a successful year of editorials including appearing in Vogue Australia, Marie Claire and Russh. With her signature curls, Beatrys is also a member of the House of Iman, and her confidence and ability to move has served her well in her modelling work.
The Indie Talent
Represented by Self Agency, Sophie’s busy year included an editorial in Elle Vietnam and Scouted Magazine, with a forthcoming feature in Lovewant. Cementing her indie status is an appearance in Australian cult brand All is a Gentle Spring, while locally she’s appeared in imagery for Wixii, Baobei, Frisson Knits, Oscar Wool and Stolen Girlfriends Club, along with unreleased campaigns for Nom*d and Ovna Ovich, both shot a few months ago. Redefining the local scene with her versatility and ability to convey an unconventional spirit, we look forward to seeing more of Sophie soon.
More On Modelling
From the catwalk to their beauty bags.
Bruised Hips & Taped Feet: 14 Hours In The Life Of A Fashion Week Model. What’s it really like to walk the runway? We go behind the glamour of opening day.
‘No One Thinks About You As Much As You Think About Yourself’ — Holly Rose Emery On Her Newfound Sense Of Self. After soul-searching and taking time to reset, she’s harnessing a different kind of perspective.
What’s New Zealand Fashion Week Like For Models With Disabilities? Booking more shows than ever before, All is for All reflects on its runway milestone.
How Do Models Get Runway-Ready? We Asked 4 To Share Their Beauty Routines. The skincare, haircare and bodycare they actually use.
