With New Zealand Fashion Week back again after a four-year break, what does that mean for our modelling industry? Emma Gleason considers who’s in the spotlight this year and talks to industry insiders about what’s changed.
Four years ago I was writing about runway representation at New Zealand Fashion Week
Established models are dusting themselves off, new faces likely a bundle of nerves, and designers fine-tuning womenswear and menswear to be paraded down the runways of the Viaduct Events Centre to an audience hungry for real-life, capital F, Fashion.
All eyes will be on the models, and questions too. Has diverse casting stuck? Are there safeguards? Who is that new face? And after a four-year break, has the hiatus given the industry a chance for metamorphosis?
Though NZFW has new owners, general manager Yasmin Farry’s been involved for most of its 22-year duration, and is stewarding the new era.
“We’re working to ensure that NZFW reverberates with the echoes of Aotearoa’s unique cultural heritage,” she says. “Our aim is to create an inclusive space where everyone belongs.” Agencies and designers are encouraged to feature a broad range of models and challenge traditional beauty standards. “New Zealand Fashion Week defines diversity and inclusivity as embracing individuals from various backgrounds, races, ethnicities, genders, abilities, and more. These values are important to uphold because they foster creativity, innovation, and authenticity within the fashion industry.”
It also has a duty of care. Protecting models has been in the spotlight in recent years, with revelations of the vulnerabilities of the vocation, and regulations are being put in place around the world.
NZFW states any model under the age of 16 must be accompanied by a chaperone at all times. “We ask that designers and agencies use common sense when casting for their shows. Obviously, there are some shows that have childrenswear, Yasmin explains. “Those shows will have the appropriate guardians in place to oversee them.” Backstage access is restricted and everyone working backstage requires a pass.
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Advertise with NZME.And with the ubiquity of digital media, they’re also placing parameters around capturing content backstage. “We do not allow crew phones backstage prior to a show and only accredited media, with permission from the designer may come backstage to photograph. This is managed on a case-by-case basis.”
Another change: There was no “open casting” this year. “We consulted with the agencies who wanted to change this to an online reach out to designers. The open casting call, while a wonderful PR moment, was an extremely time-consuming process for agencies and designers, so we wanted to streamline this process for everyone.”
Tia Woods has been in the industry for a long time too. Modelling since 15, she co-founded boutique agency Super in 2020 with Katherine Lowe, and they have local and international models booked in shows. “Our Fashion Week package had only 16 talents in total, so we were lucky enough to be able to give each of those models ample amounts of our time and resources when getting them prepared.”
It’s an important investment; having a local fashion week gives models valuable experience, and can help launch careers internationally. With limited domestic runway opportunities in recent years, ensuring models are runway-ready for NZFW has heightened importance this year.
“It started with creating the show package, which is essentially a group of models that you want to put forward to designers for shows, and getting the models show-ready with walking practice, casting practice — lots of practice! We started the process months ago,” she says on how they taught them about presentation and how castings work.
“The next part is really presenting the models to designers and working out what show options work best for each individual model. Each show requires a casting, and a fitting, and then there’s the show itself. As agents, it’s a test to see how well you juggle — it’s like scheduling on steroids. There is a tonne of back and forth between clients and ourselves, and then between us and the models.”
After so much preparation, they will be looking out for their talent next week. “Our priority is our models’ wellbeing. We pride ourselves in having close relationships and great communication with our talent and we make ourselves available to them when they need us.”
She’s also proud of how the industry is evolving — and addressing its shortcomings, with models being one of the more visible metrics of change. “Diversity and inclusivity are refreshing, not only with models but those who work behind the scenes in the industry. It’s come a long way since I started modelling 17 years ago and there weren’t many Polynesian models like me. Race, size and ability bring new perspective and growth to industry and we need to keep moving in that direction.”
READ: What We’ve Lost And Gained In The Evolution Of NZ Fashion Week
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Advertise with NZME.Tia’s background gives her a point of difference as an agent. “When I started modelling, the industry was a bit flawed and often models were sent overseas too young with little information about the industry. As an agent with a modelling background, you approach things differently because you have the knowledge on both sides of the business. I want to provide considered management, where the models are supported and part of the decision-making process so they have the confidence to take control of their own careers. Something I never had when I started.”
The push for diverse representation on the runway in recent years has seen an increase in the casting of talent who go against the grain of the model stereotype: young, thin, white, able-bodied.
As designers make an effort to expand their sizing, plus-size models increasingly appear in shows. And for All is for All, an agency whose talent live with disabilities, 2023 will see the highest number of disabled models ever booked by designers at NZFW.
Another agency challenging beauty standards and representation is Silverfox, which, as its name suggests, represents models from a more mature age cohort.
The last time NZFW took place, there was notably more representation of older models on the runway — great to see! — and again this year, with models booked to appear in 17 shows (and counting). “I am thrilled with the model choices so far,” says Rebecca Swaney, SilverFox managing director. “A lot of my newer models are having the opportunity to walk the runway for the first time, which is hugely exciting,” she says. “Cherie is a septuagenarian and walking the runway for Jockey.”
And though they may be fresh on the runway, older models bring other kinds of experience to the job. “Mature models and talent are perfectionists. They want to get it right,” Rebecca says. “They turn up on time, they listen, they learn.”
It’s important to them, and her, that they do a good job, to really make this shift last. “I think women are in the driving seat of the change in seeing more representation on the runway,” Rebecca adds. “The fashion industry is seeing the advantages now of embracing the style-conscious mature woman.”
With shows set to welcome a wider range of faces, bodies and backgrounds, we will look to the runway next week to see how far we’ve come, and what’s next.
The Faces To Watch
Not just a clothes horse, the right model at the right moment can turbo-charge a brand’s trajectory, capture their essence and, of course, make headlines. After a lengthy hiatus, there’s a new crop of talent in town for NZFW: Kahuria, as well as some old favourites returning to the runway. These are the names to know.
Em Stenberg, Super MGMT
Originally from Darwin (where she was scouted walking down the street) and now based in Sydney, Em has featured in some of the country’s leading titles like 10 Magazine and Harper’s Bazaar Australia, as well as fronting a campaign for Bassike — she’s one of the vanguards of Indigenous models shifting the dial in Australian fashion, and has been in the industry for two years. She’ll be in town for Fashion Week, and is one of Super agency’s international faces — she’s signed to IMG. It says they’re excited and lucky to have her here for the shows.
Talea Tatupu, Unique Models
Fashion Week sophomore Talea has returned to modelling after having her daughter, and has booked several of the programme’s significant shows: Kiri Nathan and Campbell Luke. Though this is only her second fashion week (due to the event’s hiatus), the Whanganui model has nine years’ experience in the industry and is enjoying considerable demand from designers.
Rewa Harker, Silverfox
Another model from the pages of Viva, and one bringing important representation to NZFW: Kahuria, Rewa returns to fashion week, and will be seen at Campbell Luke, Lontessa and more. Rewa, originally from Wairoa, has been modelling for nearly five years. “My first job was huge for me. I featured in the Viva fashion spread which included a billboard that blew my mind! I believe it absolutely helped to launch my career. I learned so much in that one shoot.”
Yae Won Moon, 62 Management
With a great haircut and posing prowess, Yae Won is on our radar for Fashion Week, and another Viva alumni. She’s signed with 62 Management, an agency that’s home to local sensations who’ve made it big overseas, like Jordan Daniels.
Chelsea Pita, All is for All
One of a number of models living with disability to be booked for NZFW: Kahuria this year — the highest number to date — Chelsea (Ngāti Tuwharetoa and Ngāti Rangitihi) is a name to have on your radar. Her first experience of modelling was part of wearable arts in primary and intermediate. “Then I had my spinal injury and I became anxious and lost my self-confidence,” she says. Pita became aware of All is for All, an agency that represents people living with disabilities, during NZFW in 2019. “It brought back all the memories and enjoyment I had when I was little on the runway and the creating. Seeing what Grace built made me want to get that confidence and enjoyment back. So I emailed Grace, explained my story of my SCI (spinal cord injury) and desire to model to bring that self-confidence and joy back into my life, and now, I’m here.”
Ella Howe, N Model Management
With experience in overseas markets like London, Paris — where she was flown to Marseille and Milan to shoot for Italian curve brand Marina Rinaldi — Milan and Sydney, having Auckland-based model Ella on the runway for NZFW: Kahuria is good indeed, and she’ll be walking for Zambesi, Juliette Hogan and more.
Anysha Rees-Webbe, Super MGMT
Making her Fashion Week debut — and one of the agency’s most in-demand models — this new face hails from Tāmaki Makaurau, and has a Kate Sylvester campaign under her belt already. “My makeup artist for school ball thought I should give modelling a go and sent me some links to get started, so I did!” She’s already looking at the international circuit, and next week will be an important first step.
Isabella Moore, Unique Models
A favourite of Viva and the cover star of Viva Magazine - Volume Five, we’re looking forward to seeing Isabella on the runways. Currently based in London (where she also works as a soprano) she’s back in Aotearoa for NZFW: Kahuria, and after making a considerable impact in 2019, we’re anticipating similar success this year, where she is slated to walk for the likes of Kate Sylvester, Zambesi and in the Pacific Fusion group show.
Minnie Xu, Red 11
Minnie will be walking in NZFW: Kahuria for the first time; moving to Aotearoa earlier this year, from Nanjing City in China, Minnie juggled her studies with modelling, the latter of which she has been doing for five years. In that time, she says, the most meaningful job she’s landed was for the Nanjing Cloud Brocade Museum, which is a repository of local intangible heritage. Closer to home, next week will see her on the runway for Juliette Hogan, Zambesi, Kiri Nathan and the Viva Next Gen show.
