LUCILLA GRAY
By Rosie Kelway
Who: Young designer to watch Lucilla Gray.
What: The first off-site presentation of Fashion Week, with an installation at Kingsize Studios in Kingsland. This was Lucilla's first time showing at NZFW, with the designer previewing her spring/summer collection on 11 models. She explained that the collection is an exploration of ideas rather than "theme, theme, theme".
“I always like to work with this idea of a powerful female figure, whether she is a heroine or just a normal girl. It’s about strong silhouettes. I always try to incorporate minimalism but bringing that in with a print, slight 70s, Japanese references. I think really for me, the collection was just playing with silhouettes and exploring new ideas.”
We liked: The bell shaped accentuated sleeves; the 70s looking flower print which Lucilla designed herself, and the skirts and pants with tasteful thigh-high splits.
Beauty note: The makeup was clean with a 70s influence, with a floating graphic eyeliner and minimal mascara applied to the eyelashes, with gold pressed into the corner of the eyes.
Set design: Models stood and sat on chairs on a section of real grass and flowers that had been laid on the concrete studio floor. The set was designed by Lucilla's mum, who is a floral stylist.
Music: A mixture of indie and electronic beats - listen to her set list here.
ITZME / JULIAN DANGER
By Rosie Kelway
Who: Young labels Itzme and Julian Danger.
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Advertise with NZME.What: Itzme opened the show with 12 looks, taking inspiration from the swinging 60s outfits of model Twiggy, explained designer Shuai Zhang. She said she wanted garments that felt fresh with a vintage look and colour palette. Last year the brand showed as part of the New Generation show, so it was great to see it back on the runway.
Presented alongside a 16-piece collection by label Julian Danger, by designer Amy-Rose Goulding. Her collection was titled Honey, and the designer says she balanced her trademark, “cute and really sweet, sort of trademark pastels” with long coats and tailoring. The brand is separated into two lines: a mainline, which is younger with fun prints, camis and short shorts, and another line of classics, with longer hemlines for an older market. Goulding combined looks from both lines for her show.
We liked: At Itzme, the miniskirts, blue and white checked faux fur, hand pleated detailing and the fact that everything is made in New Zealand. At Julian Danger, we loved the pastel pink tailored suiting and original Aztec style print designed by Amy-Rose.
Sell out pieces: Our money is on the waffle knit jumper from Julian Danger, plus the shoes and bags which she introduced this spring. At Itzme, we'll take the blue and white checked faux fur coat, skirt, and dress, thanks.
Beauty: At Itzme the hair was worn out and slicked backed, with graphic black square eyeliner painted into the corner of the eye and pink lipstick. At Julian Danger, the standout feature was the rabbit tail pom pom hair tie included in each of the models' side buns.
Music: At Julian Danger the show opened with Honey by Mariah Carey, which was meant to be "a bit tongue-in-cheek" joked Amy-Rose. There was also Diamonds by Abba mixed in their too.
HER APPAREL / WILLA & MAE
By Jessica Beresford
Who: Intimates brand Her Apparel and sleepwear label Willa & Mae in a combined contemporary salon show.
What: Her Apparel's debut NZFW collection, titled Girl Talk, featured candy-coloured camisoles and matching briefs, white lace bodysuits and mesh long-sleeve crop tops.
Willa & Mae followed with a range of breezy button-up shirts, sheer bias-cut nighties and satin robes.
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Advertise with NZME.We liked: The 'free the nipple' statements at Her Apparel - models walking down the runway with nipple tape crosses under sheer tops and bras.
Willa & Mae's contrasting shirts and collars, a la Alexander Wang spring 2014.
Not so much: The visible black g-strings under the garments at Her Apparel, which weren't a sexy look.
Beauty note: Both shows had subtly bronzed beauty looks.
NEW GENERATION
By Danielle Clausen
Who: The second of two New Generation shows this week. Providing a platform for Gallynine, Clavons Wear and Kharl Wirepa to each show their visions to the industry
What: Clavon's Wear was all about men's tailoring with a high-voltage twist. A glamourous line up of dresses were presented by Kharl Wirepa. Gally Cho, creative director of Gallynine, showed a playful selection of leather bags.
We liked: The combination of velvet, fringe and an embellished, mosaic sequin fabric that ran throughout Wirepa's collection of evening looks. It was also nice to see a minimal use of accessories, as one might expect to see an overload in the name of glamour. Gallynine's stand out bag was boxy, monochromatic and had a circle cut out in the centre which cleverly formed the handle. A coral pinstripe suit was the boldest of Clavon's looks for AW 16, his eclectic take on suiting was a tribute to his Father.
Beauty note: Slept-in glamour, muted red lips and textural buns that sat low in the nape of the neck. The men's grooming was kept simple and slick.
Sell out piece: A shift mini dress in the mentioned mosaic sequin by Kharl Wirepa - clean, luxe and in line with the 60s micro lengths that have been everywhere as of late.
