Our guide to what’s new and notable in the fashion world, Viva’s Retail Therapy column offers handy advice for navigating the fashion market. This week, there’s a new label in town, some designer destinations to visit, and we look at why Te Whanganui-a-Tara brand Nisa has decided to close.
New in
Runway-ready footwear
One thing that caught our eye at Wynn Hamlyn’s Afterpay Australian Fashion Week show last month was the somewhat incongruous footwear: a prissy, pointy satin slingback. But it’s just the kind of twisted styling choice that fashion designer Wynn Crawshaw made his name on in the label’s early years. And, it turns out, you can take it for a spin yourself. The shoes are by Australian brand Nelson Made (the blush and brown colourways are particularly nice) and are available now.
NYC-brand Khaite is now at Muse
It’s always interesting to understand how and why multi-brand retailers choose the stock that they do. Is it demand? Is it introducing customers to something brand new? Often, it’s a mix of both.
For Muse boutique’s owner and director Olivia Vincent Healy, the decision to start stocking Manhattan brand Khaite (pronounced “Kate”) made sense, not just because of designer Catherine Holstein’s clean, contemporary approach to womenswear — its luxe basics include a cashmere bra and cardigan made viral by Katie Holmes — and celebrity base that includes Hailey Bieber, Zoe Kravitz, Mindy Kaling and the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle.
Healy knew the brand had a growing audience in Aotearoa. “My customers were starting to buy more and more of Khaite directly online, but the duties are hard to avoid with higher price points,” she explains, and stocking it at Muse offered a solution. “We reached out to Khaite about a year ago and it’s so exciting to see it selling so well. We’ve had orders from all over the country already.”
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Advertise with NZME.Khaite launched at Muse Ponsonby this week, as well as online, spanning an array of pieces, including its popular denim, knitwear (great timing for winter) and accessories — the knee-high boots (pictured) are Olivia’s personal favourite. 264 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby, Auckland.
What’s happening
Nisa is closing
In sad news this week for the local retail and manufacturing sector, Te Whanganui-a-Tara brand Nisa revealed that it will be closing in July, following six years in business. This move follows an attempt by founder Elisha Watson to sell the company in May — it is one of few remaining brands making underwear locally, and provides employment opportunities for women from migrant and refugee backgrounds — who seems to have proven unsuccessful.
“We have tried every trick in the book to keep our social enterprise going, but we’ve got to the point where we’re not in a financial position to continue operating without a buyer to inject capital,” said Watson in a statement to media, and she has enlisted a career coach to help her staff transition.
Nisa joins another New Zealand-made intimates brand to fold recently: in March, Unde founders James (Ngāti Kahungunu) and Antoinette (Te Ati Awa, Parihaka) announced they were closing the label. Both Nisa and Unde are continuing to operate for a short while, as they sell through stock and wrap up operations, so if you’re one of their dedicated fans, or want to secure some of their pieces while you still can, now is the time to do so.
There’s an innovative new retail space in Britomart
Change is afoot, or perhaps always happening, and while some businesses are closing, others are just getting started. Retail destination and “showroom on demand” Spacefor opened at the end of last month, and gives businesses an opportunity to access brick-and-mortar retailing — some of the first to take up tenure at its Britomart location were Rebe, Flow Studio Ceramics and Pompeii (currently in store, until June 11), Honest Wolf and Volle Golf. The transformative space includes adjustable fixtures, customisable elements and more things to bring a brand to life, and takes care of some of the more challenging barriers to retailing. 10 Te Ara Tahuhu, Britomart, Auckland.
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Ben Alexander is having a studio day
If Viva Premium’s recent behind-the-scenes look at designer Benjamin Alexander’s recent fashion show at Webb’s left you wanting a piece of the brand for yourself, or a closer look at its locally made wares, then you can do just that this weekend. The brand is hosting a studio day at its Grey Lynn space, giving visitors the chance to experience its seventh collection.
With a mostly online retail presence (brick-and-mortar stockists include Service Depot and Sully’s in Te Whanganui-a-Tara, True Store in Hamilton), this is a good opportunity to try things on and get a feel for Alexander’s lush fabrics — things the internet just can’t recreate (yet) — and enjoy other real-life treats like coffee and pastries. Saturday June 10, 11am to 3pm. 28 Crummer Rd (entry via Mackelvie St), Grey Lynn, Auckland.
There’s a pop-up store for BW36.174
Aotearoa fashion label BW36.174 is in the process of renovating its store and studio and in the meantime, designer Blair Wheeler has secured a temporary space in Remuera for a pop-up store. Where you can try on the brand’s sexy, sculptural ready-to-wear (made in Auckland, 36.174 are the geographic coordinates of the city) any day of the week — a fantastic introduction to the label. Alterations can be made to its off-the-rack pieces, and all garments can also be made-to-measure (Wheeler has a background in tailoring), which requires an appointment. 396 Remuera Rd, Remuera, Auckland.
On sale
Manaaki is half-price on Mr Porter
Emerging menswear brand Manaaki is one to have tabs on, if you don’t already. Designer Kat Tua secured something of a retail coup when she picked up luxury e-tailer Mr Porter as a stockist. “Focusing on contemporary menswear for every day with a distinctive connection to her Māori roots, her debut 27-piece collection received significant support as one of three winners of the leading menswear luxury retailer Mr Porter Futures programme,” explains Viva creative and fashion director Dan Ahwa, writing about Tua’s trajectory.
As part of the Mr Porter mid-season sale, the online store is currently offering 50 per cent off Manaaki’s spring/summer collection. Standouts include some great denim, and the brand’s very lovely knits, and these sensational leather pants (pictured above) that are a tribute to the Polynesian Panthers’ distinctive style.
Shjark is holding an archive sale
There’s cut-price locally made fashion to be had from Shjark right now; running until June 12, its archive sale is in full swing — now with an extra 10 per cent discount applied to purchases of two items or more. Explore the offering online, or head into store where you’ll find some steeply reduced samples and seconds too. 534 Richmond Rd, Grey Lynn, Auckland.
