Retail Report: Inside The Business Of Selling Vintage

The way we shop has changed significantly in recent years. Previously, Viva asked a panel of local store owners to share their thoughts on the trends and moods of the market. For this Retail Report, vintage purveyors share their insights into the business of restoring and selling vintage.

Over the last few years, the word “vintage” has shaken off some dust.

Now, in a world dominated (commercially) by fast fashion brands moving at a breakneck pace, vintage pieces are resurfacing as a relieving alternative.

At the most luxurious levels, A-listers are digging into designer archives to find headline-making and algorithm-aware vintage pieces — think Zendaya and Law Roach’s unearthing of Mugler’s 1995 robotic chrome couture at the world premiere of sci-fi epic Dune: Part Two, or Bella Hadid’s archival shemagh-scarf-inspired sundress worn along Cannes’ Promenade de la Croisette.

Within Aotearoa, threads from another era often make their way into street-style ensembles. Perhaps among the most mainstream of our national preferences is American varsity vintage. But our appetite for this preppy style is sometimes mimicked and exploited by fast fashion retailers (think “university” sweatshirts lacking academic citation or Letterman jackets stamped from alphabet roulette).

In this way, the term vintage has been misappropriated in the effort to market (and greenwash) clothing lacking the appropriate credentials to people shopping with a particular look (or environmental ethos) in mind.

However, in New Zealand, we have real virtuosos of vintage, who’ve resurfaced and reclaimed clothing from earlier eras. They’ve curated, mended, cleaned and catalogued pieces with keen expertise. Here, a few of these stewards share an insight into what it’s like to stock and sell vintage right now.

Lizzie Langridge

The last fashion item I purchased was... a yellow Gregory shirt (made in New Zealand), second-hand from the Central Flea Market in Balmoral. I also bought a pair of Citizens of Humanity horseshoe jeans from Simon James Store.

I was drawn to vintage clothing, personally and professionally, because... I have always loved old things, from a young age I remember loving looking in antique stores, something about the beauty of something well made, and a little worn. For Love James, I knew there was a gap in the market and demand for an alternative to traditional bridal and occasion wear.

When I’m curating the stock for Love James, I look for... pieces that are well made, in excellent condition (or repairable), natural fibres if possible, but I am definitely era fluid! I look for pieces I can imagine in a modern context. I find America has a lot more vintage occasionwear and extravagance in their fashion — culturally, it makes sense. The pieces I source in New Zealand are usually a bit more subdued, with fewer embellishments.

In my process of consultation... clients will book a private one-on-one appointment at the Love James Salon, and when booking will let me know what sort of styles and pieces they are looking for. During their appointment, I will go through the current collection and suggest pieces I think will meet their brief, and encourage them to try on as many pieces as they like (including some that they might be unsure of). With vintage, you always have to keep an open mind, as you may be surprised and fall in love with something unexpected. Brides will often find a dress they fall in love with on the spot, and when they do it’s kismet!

In working with vintage wear, I come across challenges... one of the key challenges is sizing, and size range. I do my best to source a range, but as anyone in buying or planning will know, getting your size curve right is an art and takes time. It also comes down to the pieces available in the market! If I had every dress in multiple sizes, it would be a lot easier, but the fact that there is only one, makes it more special and exciting. Working with clothing that’s had another life before it arrived also means it’s not just a simple unpack and hang, there are often hours of love and care poured into repairs and cleaning. Alterations are also a common part of bridal, but because I like to mostly keep pieces in their original beauty, communicating the vision of how a client could alter or rework a dress can take little imagination.

In terms of vintage clothing, I wish more people knew... that the quality and craftsmanship will often match or far surpass modern options! The tailoring and embellishments you can access would cost thousands today for an equivalent (a hand-beaded gown, for example). Wearing and owning vintage has a special magic to it that new items can never offer.

Estelle Stroud

Costume designer and founder of digital storefront Vintage Stylists Own. Ngā Wairiki and Ngati Tuwharetoa.

My first taste of vintage was... as a preschooler with an epic dress-up box of my nan’s and great-aunt’s 1960s lurex gowns, lurex shoes, fur collars, lace petticoats and my mama’s bridesmaid dresses from the 1970s. There were even some of her favourite items, like a hot pink chiffon frill collar and sleeve blouse — I wish I still had that today!

I, like my whole whānau, was raised on hokohoko shopping. By the mid to late 1980s (when I was about age 7) I was already obsessed with Art Deco and had started collecting 1950s dresses and shoes (guess who got teased at school for having different taste).

All I knew was that picking up some classic pieces and dressing in gorgeous textiles and putting looks together brought me joy — those small-town minds could go do small-town things. It helped that my parents supported my personal style.

I was drawn to vintage professionally through... a natural progression. I was an avid collector and started selling through consignment stores in the mid to late 2000s. I became a costume designer in film and, after years of nervous system deregulation and burnout, a dear friend suggested that in-between film jobs I should start selling clothing online.

I started the account as a way to make a living with low impact on my mental health and nervous system but also as a way to heal and cultivate a positive body image — I struggled with eating disorders through my teen years. When I was researching how I wanted to start the shop at the time, the top sellers and popular accounts were all women size 8 and [there were few] Māori or people of colour.

I needed to see that change, I needed to see someone with curves, I needed to see beautiful brown skin and I needed to see gorgeous vintage that was available in my size. I knew how rare that was. It went from “here’s something I know how to do”, to “I need to be the change I need to see in the world”. I really enjoy it.

When I’m curating the stock for Vintage Stylists Own, I look for... authentic vintage. This means items that are definitely from at least 20-plus years ago. It’s got to fit a modern size 12/14 plus — there’s a serious bonus if I can find size 18+ pieces that are not frumpy. Personally, I have an eclectic taste. I’m open to anything tasteful from Y2K to the Victorian era. I also have consignment stores that I still sell through. If I don’t think something will work for my audience, I will take garments to a physical store that I know has that type of regular clientele.

I definitely prefer natural textiles — cotton, linen, silk, wool, leather — but I do make allowances for synthetics if it’s an amazing pattern or style. And I’m looking for wearability: is it a classic piece that can be worn with anything? I’ll also look for statement and conversation pieces that could speak to an individual’s style. Or for those one-off pieces that would look perfect on a red carpet or at an event.

My regular followers know I have a penchant for mohair when the colder months set in.

In my process of sourcing... I really like to do this for my own pleasure. I’m not interested in this feverish state of “I’ve got to do it, I’ve got to check every hoko every day.” Instead, I listen to my internal guidance, also known as higher self or even spirit guides. When I get the nudge, I go and I always find something. More and more, I’m finding less vintage and will only find one item — but it will be that one great item.

I’ve also learned that I don’t have to buy everything I see, just because I think someone out there will like it. I’ve been fine-tuning a lot and putting items back. After four years of using Instagram as a platform for reselling, I have a good idea of what works for my clients, while staying true to my personal aesthetics.

Selling vintage through a digital platform... is a lot of work.

Resellers make it look easy but we’re covering so many roles — sourcing, laundering, mending, measuring, photographing, videographing, styling, editing. It takes discipline to find balance within all of this. Having suffered from burnout due to film contract work (and previously being a people pleaser) I have learned to put myself first and stick to my boundaries.

I am an energetically sensitive being and I need to connect with myself and Papatūānuku first thing in the morning, before I touch my phone or conduct business. I’m also not going to engage with really late-night DMs — it’s okay to respond at a time that is convenient for you.

I thrive in te taiao and I do not want to be attached to an app all day every day. I’ve had to learn and keep learning when it’s too much and when it’s just the right amount — that my organic rhythm far outweighs pandering to an algorithm.

I’m also enjoying the approach of releasing new stock in my own time, and just being happy with items that don’t sell straight away. I know the garments are good and appropriately priced. There is no room for hustle culture at Vintage Stylists Own. I want my clientele’s nervous system to feel regulated when they shop sustainably with me, so they have the time to make considered decisions about what they’re purchasing.

The reseller online community is the most gorgeous and supportive in our country and I love it.

I wish more people knew that... vintage has value and will keep its value. Years of collecting and working in vintage retail on Cuba St back in the 2000s taught me that it’s not all about how much of a bargain you get. There is a quality to the textiles that you do not see in modern garments, unless you’re paying into the hundreds, and there is a craftsmanship to the construction as well.

Oh, and please don’t overwash garments with high chemical content detergents — if you want it to last, gentle is the way!

Sydney Reynolds and Evie Davis

Co-founders of Silly Billy Vintage, who operated in New Zealand before moving back to Toronto earlier this year.

The last fashion item we each purchased was... We could only move back to Toronto with one suitcase, so we’ve been picking up new pieces for our personal collection every other day it feels like... Evie’s latest find is a beautiful vintage Western statement belt from the thrift store, it was originally sourced for the shop, but some things are just too good to sell once we try them on. Sydney’s last purchase was a stunning red velvet chore coat that she picked up from Expo Vintage in Toronto, where we also have our Silly Billy showroom out the back. Still have yet to wear both pieces out in the wild, but we love a good layering piece.

We were drawn to vintage clothing, personally and professionally, because... we liked sourcing and wearing pieces that are unique and have a story. We’re suckers for a vintage tag, an old mend on an item of clothing or an imperfection from its past life. We started Silly Billy in 2020 while living in Toronto, a city that LOVES vintage, so it just made sense as there was a strong demand and then our obsession really began.

When we’re curating the stock for Silly Billy Vintage, we look for... particular silhouettes, such as a puff sleeve, frilly collar or flouncy cut. Silly Billy is an extension of ourselves so we try to pick pieces we would wear. We look for cute prints and fabrics. The more drama the better.

In our process of sourcing... we are all about connections, we have wholesale contacts that allow us to buy in bulk. We hand-pick and look over everything, we only source locally as we like to support the economy we are living in and other small businesses. We do also thrift, which can be seen as controversial, but we believe saving items from landfills is the most important part of what we do.

In our experience working in New Zealand, in comparison to Toronto, we realised that... both have their challenges, they have different clientele and trends. But both experiences have been positive! Toronto is easier to source vintage as there is just more due to the population and Torontonians have an incredible love for vintage clothing. We found New Zealanders were more drawn to branded pieces. New Zealand was great for our brand expansion, too, as we are both from Aotearoa so we were able to use our existing contacts. But honestly, we just try to make it work wherever we are.

Currently, customers are gravitating towards... statement pieces, denim maxi skirts, cotton button-ups, ballet flats and cute accessories.

In terms of vintage, we wish more people knew that... imperfections aren’t always a bad thing; they make a piece even more unique and we think sometimes even more valuable. Mend or make-do! Replacing buttons can give a garment a completely different vibe and knowing how to wash your clothes is key for longevity.

Jo Bratton

Owner of Avondale-based vintage and second-hand store Go Jo’s.

The last fashion item I invested in was a... beautiful, traditional wool-felted cowboy hat from a local saddlery near my house. I don’t often buy new products, but hats really are my weakness and I’ve always loved to wear them. I know that quality and craftsmanship will last me a lifetime.

I was drawn to vintage clothing because... I grew up playing in a clothing dress-up box and that love of dressing up never left me. I wasn’t brought up to have lots of “new” clothes, which I think has always helped feed my creative side.

When I was looking for a career move I wanted and needed something fulfilling, both professionally and personally. I chose to look back at what I loved as a child and that was my inspiration for the shop. Back in the mid-2000s, there wasn’t really much choice, especially out west. I wanted somewhere people could celebrate their style and individuality, feel inspired and get great service and great clothes

When I’m curating the collection in-store, I pay attention to the... extremely broad range of customers who shop with us. One thing we always look for is clothing with a voice and sense of personality. We always want to be mindful of the direction that customers are leaning towards in their personal style. Something we always ask ourselves when selecting pieces for the shop is: who is going to wear this? Do we have this customer?

For our process of sourcing... we’ve created a really broad network and community over the 16 years we’ve been in business. We do a lot of house visits, in some cases estates. Often in these situations the clothing needs a lot of work and wouldn’t be accepted by op shops, as they don’t have facilities to clean and mend the clothes. They would ultimately end up in landfill. By doing this we can preserve some of our fashion history and learn a little bit about people and their journey through their wardrobes. There are some amazing stories to be told.

Currently, customers are gravitating towards... pieces that are a springboard or platform to reinvent and reboot their current style. Quite often, it’s the things they least expect or aren’t looking for that spark excitement or joy. That can be anything from a new silhouette to a pop of colour or mixing and matching prints. One of our biggest movers lately has been our vintage and retro suits. They have been a universal hit for everybody.

Since I opened Go Jo’s... I think that the landscape has changed dramatically with the onset of online resellers. As we all know, there are very few small-business vintage and retro retail stores left. There’s something to be said for being able to walk into a store and experience the clothing in person and try it on and have a meaningful exchange, meet the owners and experience the sense of community that you get from small businesses.

We’ve seen so many iconic stores we thought would always be around close down in the last few years. It’s heartbreaking.

I wish more people knew... that there is something to be said for the timelessness of vintage clothing. It can move in and out of the seasons, of your life and style, with you. So often I have people come into the shop to say they still have an item they bought years ago, that they still love and wear all of the time. That’s how it should be.

I wish more people understood how robust our clothing industry was before fast fashion and the Y2K boom. When people cherished buying new clothing, they were investments. The integrity of those pieces is still intact today. The buttons are still on them and the zips aren’t jammed. You really can’t say the same thing about the quality of fast fashion.

Kate Bryant

Owner of Wellington-based Ziggurat, whose store on Cuba St stocks vintage and contemporary designer labels.

The last fashion item I bought was... another pair of vintage cowboy boots off eBay (I swear it’s the last pair!).

I was drawn to vintage clothing because... my childhood was spent at jumble sales in the UK in the 70s. I grew up in second-hand clothes and clothes that Mum had made me. I studied textiles and have been involved in fashion ever since. It’s just a part of me that’s always been there.

I never thought I would own a shop like Ziggurat but here I am, 18 years later, as the present custodian of this Wellington institution. I love providing a fabulous range of quality contemporary and vintage recycled clothes to loyal Ziggurat customers.

When I’m curating stock for Ziggurat, I look for... something unique and different, good quality and generally just something I think someone will like. Ziggurat sells on a commission basis so people bring stock to the shop for me to look through. With the goodwill behind Ziggurat’s name, I am sent items from all over the country.

I have such a varied client base, so... it’s hard to pinpoint one or two items that people are looking for right now. We have sold winter coats lately — the vintage coats are all 100% wool or mohair and are still going strong after 50-80 years (they’re made out of gorgeous fabrics and made to last).

The Ziggurat stock is not really trend-driven. It’s eclectic, with quite alternative pieces and more classic ones.

The vintage scene has changed a lot... in the 45 years that Ziggurat has been open. It is way more acceptable now to buy second-hand clothes. It wasn’t the done thing for most people not that many years ago, as if you were wearing second-hand it meant you couldn’t afford new.

I still occasionally have people open the door and say “Oh, it’s second-hand”. But that is rare now.

I think people are aware of how fast fashion is destroying the world. Buying second-hand is what everyone should be doing, both for the environment and their pockets!

I wish more people understood that... when you’re buying a fabulous vintage piece it’s like buying an antique. The pieces are often made specifically for one person in a gorgeous fabric — it’s like buying a one-off couture piece.

They have worth if you look after and love them. Vintage can be an asset as no more pieces are coming.

And, since we only have what’s left, I spend a lot of time bringing wounded birds back to life. I get great pleasure from giving a piece another chance at creating fun memories for the next loving owner.

Most of the pieces at Ziggurat cost less than people spend on new items from high street shops. There are thousands of these items in every shop in every town, and they are worth nothing tomorrow, just adding to the textile waste.

Buying second-hand is better on so many levels. We should all be doing it.

More on vintage fashion

From local sellers to influential figures.

My Style: Painted Bird’s Stephanie King is a vintage expert. Stylist, sustainability advocate and founder of Painted Bird vintage, Stephanie King, tell us about her approach to fashion.

Learn how to care for your vintage garments with these tips from an expert. Estelle Stroud knows better than anyone how to breathe new life into an old favourite.

Maxine Kelly, where’d you get that vintage suit? The founder of Underlena knows lingerie, and a great place for cheese scones.

Vintage vs second-hand: Why getting the semantics correct matters. As mass retailers cotton on to the greenwashing tactics of offering second-hand clothes marketed as vintage treasures, Dan Ahwa offers a simple guide for separating the wheat from the chaff.

Didier Ludot is the man who all but created vintage fashion. Fifty years ago Didier Ludot opened his couture resale boutique in Paris and changed style forever.