What do younger shoppers want when it comes to the outdoors? From semi-pro skiing to starting his own brand, Sam Moore tells Emma Gleason why he’s traversing the competitive territory, the challenges of creating content in an ever-changing algorithm, and the importance of connecting with the brand’s audience offline – a “cornerstone” of Pyra’s success.
Recent years have seen a vogue for apparel in varying levels of technicality – Patagonia, Arcteryx, Salomon amongst them – but beyond the concept of “gorp core” (gorp is a colloquial name for scroggin) there’s been sticking power to outdoor-centric attire in our everyday lives, and it’s more wide-reaching than a plethora of Kathmandu puffers at the local cafe on Sunday.
This can be attributed to the fundamental shifts in dress code from the pandemic years, our desire to engage with and signal fitness and leisure and, I think, dress for the future that’s more or less here; technical apparel making us feel equipped for extreme weather and social change.
And, of course, sport more generally is in the spotlight right now; as I write this Spain have just defeated the Brits in the Euros final, we’ve spent the week observing Wimbledon, and the Olympics are looming.
It’s also Viva’s theme this week. Though Viva doesn’t have a sports vertical, as culture reporters we consider its influence on the beats we cover, interview people in the profession about their lives, and understand how athleticism and uniformity translate to the clothes we wear and products we use.
So with that in mind we caught up with New Zealander Sam Moore, now based in Queensland near the Gold Coast, where he’s established buzzy performance brand Pyra.
What compels someone to make technical clothing?
Growing up in Hawke’s Bay he was “mad about sports”, and became a semi-professional skier, giving him a deep understanding of the demands on performance apparel and its unique attributes, like “what separates technical outerwear from the ordinary, and how it should perform in the elements”, Sam explains.
He also gained an early experience of the shop floor. “My father has always owned sports stores, so growing up around product and retail is in my blood.”
Add a BA in graphic design in the chilly climes of Otago to the mix and Sam had what he describes as “the perfect starting point to begin working in the apparel industry”.
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Advertise with NZME.He spent 14 years designing for Australian brands but noticed a disconnect between the technical category and what was happening at the street level. “Many legacy outdoor brands felt dated and misaligned with youth street culture.”
Seeing a gap, he built Pyra to fill it.
“We launched at the start of 2020, just as Covid hit, which was an interesting and uncertain time,” says Sam. “But as we learned, once lockdowns finished there was a huge influx of people wanting to get outside and enjoy nature, which perfectly aligned with our brand.”
The brand’s wheelhouse is technical apparel with a focus on the outdoors, while also pulling from that youth culture demographic that Sam felt was missing in the category.
The year before the launch was spent working on the go-to-market strategy: the all-important mission, values, and guidelines that define a brand’s identity and shape its actions. “This groundwork ultimately contributed to our success and helped us stand out in our early years.”
It wasn’t all downhill and simple
An early partnership with streetwear store Culture Kings was, Sam explains, a significant jumping-off point for customer awareness and sales – $1 million in its first year – and Pyra now count David Jones and JD sports among their stockists, alongside 10 independent speciality retailers. There have been buzzy collabs with international brands, including G-shock, Merrell, and Shaka footwear.
They’ve been fortunate, Sam says, but partnering with the right retailers is just one part of the puzzle.
The product has to be appealing and, most importantly, as technical apparel, they have to deliver on quality and needs. A lot of time is spent forecasting and researching textile innovation. “We work with speciality fabric partners to produce high-quality functional products that last beyond the season, all whilst limiting our impact on the environment.”
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Advertise with NZME.Above all, what they make needs to be fit for purpose. “A lot of this comes down to understanding how different fabrics perform.” One example is the brand’s four-way stretch fabric for its hiking shorts and trousers, which reduces friction. “Likewise in our signature puffer jacket, we have external air vents on the side and internal backpack straps, so if you do get hot you can simply open the air vents, and or take it off and wear the jacket as a backpack. We really go deep in understanding the customers’ paint points and spend a lot of time in nature testing our products.”
It’s one of their top sellers, alongside the shell jackets and hats, something he attributes to their performance quality and price point. Shell and fleece jackets are priced at $200, logo beanies retail for $50, and a puffer is $300.
Pyra has built an audience focusing on the elusive 25- to 35-year-olds and casting a net that captures both “hardcore” enthusiasts and those who don the gear for recreation and everyday wear.
Outdoor activity is part of New Zealand’s national identity, deeply ingrained in our cultural values and how we spend our free time. Now based across the ditch, this must give Sam a unique position to see the differences between Aussies and Kiwis when it comes to this stuff.
“Both share a deep appreciation for outdoor adventures, emphasising an active lifestyle and connection to nature,” he says diplomatically. “Australia’s outdoor culture is largely shaped by its coastal geography, while New Zealand’s is characterised by more rugged terrain.
“We ensure that our performance gear caters to both climates.”
READ: What To Wear On A Hike
Movement in the elements is Pyra’s north star and the centre of their content and communications. “For us, it’s about creating a brand that [our customers] feel connected to and inspired by,” Sam explains. “Cultivating a community of brand advocates has undoubtedly been one of our greatest achievements and has become the cornerstone of our success.”
How important are online platforms?
Social media has been crucial for Pyra to connect with their community. “While the ever-changing algorithms present challenges, we’ve found that success is less about volume and more about creating authentic, relatable video content.”
It’s a huge part of brand marketing these days, though the work and consideration that goes into the content isn’t forwarded by labels in the same way design and manufacturing often is.
With social media crucial to Pyra, and their output on these platforms – and their own – high quality, how much energy and budget do they put into image making? “We shoot a large volume of content every week – whether it be location-based campaign, raw video content or behind the scenes,” Sam says. “Content really is at the forefront for the Meta machine in terms of trialling and testing via digital ads.”
They take a lot of pride in theirs, aiming for “best-in-class” storytelling and authentic narratives. Founder-led content has been performing well for them, and Sam sharing his story has helped build stronger trust in the brand. It’s a playbook deployed by a lot of new-generation brands on the small to medium end of the spectrum.
Can being a founder come with balance?
Formational figureheads are symbolic of a company’s ethics, provide a story for the brand, and facilitate valuable human connection during a time when that has increased weight with consumers.
Part of Allbirds’ original magic came from the cinematic story of former All White Tim Brown turning a prototype developed in a Wellington apartment into a high-flying global brand. And Patagonia’s Yvon Chouinard has taken on mythic, anti-hero proportions for his corporate approach and environmentalism.
Yvon famously balanced work with recreation. It’s the tenet and name of his book 2005 book, Let My People Go Surfing. Does Sam still find time for all that? “My life remains deeply intertwined with outdoor activities. I carve out time to ski during winter months, surf on a weekly basis, and regularly enjoy tennis and golf.”
There’s also the nearby national parks, which he explores with the Pyra Hike Club community – an offline iteration of their digital audience, which they hope to extend by establishing Pyra stores that can act as meeting hubs for meetups, events and the Hike Club. “For me, immersing myself in nature is essential for maintaining both a healthy lifestyle and a balanced mindset.”
What do we want to wear now?
Outdoor activity isn’t just influencing our health, but also our lifestyles and how we’re dressing now.
“Athleisure and ‘gorpcore’ have resonated due to the growing focus on health and active lifestyles, combined with a desire for versatile, comfortable clothing that transitions well between various settings,” Sam says. “Looking ahead, I think these trends will evolve rather than fade.”
And in our fragmented retail and media landscape, he cautions against the allure of mass audiences. “I truly believe if you try to sell to everyone, you sell to no one, so brands that are specific about their niche are the ones that will continue to have success.”
There are legs in that approach, and we’ve seen formerly niche brands gain wider appeal.
He recommends Pyra, of course, but also rates hot Canadian brand Arc’teryx, US labels ASRV, Bandit Running and Halfdays, and, closer to home, New Zealand’s Mons Royale and Porter James Sports.
And what does he advise for cold weather, which New Zealanders are experiencing right now due to a polar vortex? “Having a good merino wool base layer is always a good start.” They can be layered with windbreakers or heavier-duty puffers.
Chasing a different climate to Queensland and due for a trip home, Sam plans to spend a few months in Queenstown this year. “Personally, I want to be able to spend more time in the South Island,” he says. “We might have to open a store there to justify it! Watch this space.”
Emma Gleason is the deputy editor of lifestyle and entertainment (audience), and has worked on Viva for more than four years, contributing stories on culture, fashion and what’s going on in Auckland. Recently she’s canvassed the coolest looks from Wimbledon, interviewed New Zealand designer Morghan Bradshaw about her statement-making fashion, and considered dad-coded denim outings from big names.
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