Our Favourite Looks From New Zealand Fashion Week 2023

It was a return to form for New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria this year, and as designers gingerly reacquainted themselves with the precarious act of putting together a runway show, the Viva team was on the ground reporting and dissecting the week from all angles.

You can read award-winning writer Kim Knight’s observational stories, including trailing one of the week’s busiest models, Hope Phillips, and exploring the reality of a day in the life of a model working at Fashion Week, along with a story of what it’s like as a non-fashion person in attendance.

Creative and fashion director Dan Ahwa offered up a thoughtful summary of key takeaways from this year’s event, including a concerted effort to connect with consumers and how the reimagined Fashion Week has responded to the changing way we consume fashion now, also catching up with its new managing director Yasmin Farry ahead of the event to get to know her a little better and how she’s redefining the business of Fashion Week.

Roving reporter Emma Gleason’s background in design proved invaluable — joining forces with video producer Britt Walton to capture the week’s colour, sights and sounds with their playful Viva Daily video dispatches.

In a week that saw the return of Fashion Week, it was perfect timing to explore what New Zealand style looks like now, as contributing editor Jessica Beresford offers up a fascinating look at Aotearoa’s diverse fashion landscape.

We’ve also pulled together helpful new-season fashion buys fresh off the runway and caught up with some of the week’s key influencers — fashion buyers — about what they witnessed during the week that will resonate with their customers.

And, of course, there was plenty of great personal style around the event as photographer Hōne Naera-Scott lent his discerning eye to the time-honoured Fashion Week tradition of street style photography. Speaking of personal style, fashion assistant Annabel Dickson rounded up the Viva team each day to document what the team wore during the week, showcasing personal style with a mix of local designers and vintage treasures.

As for the fashion on the runway? There were several looks that piqued our interest for various reasons, and when tasked with choosing the one look that caught our attention the most, the team offered the following choices. As Kim Knight writes, with fashion, “it starts with someone’s hand — and ends up in our hearts.”

Here are the looks that made us swoon.

Zambesi

“It might have been the golden light of the setting sun or the magic of the rising blue moon, the super-yachts sparkling on the mirror-like water of the Viaduct, or the city’s towering high rises stretching into the inky sky, or being outside on the calmest of evenings with the coolest of people, but I wanted everything in Zambesi’s Spring 24 collection. Everything. Designer and founder Liz Findlay has proved, yet again, why she is an unwavering icon of New Zealand design. And, in this collection, the last items by the brand’s former menswear designer Dayne Johnston. Every piece exudes to perfection Zambesi’s hip nonchalance. Trademark black is punctuated by an exquisite cerise pink that reflects the night’s changing light, and the softest mint hue which hints at summer days to come. Pieces are effortlessly oversized in hemp and linen, body skimming in silk... this is a world-class collection that elevates and transports. This tuxedo suit says it all. A jacket, oversized, with a contrasting black silk lapel. The low-slung men’s pants, elevated with a contrasting skinny silver belt and cool enough to team with trainers.” — Amanda Linnell, editor

Kate Sylvester

“Kate Sylvester’s show at NZFW was a celebration of 30 years in business, and to reflect that the designer offered a kind of retrospective, with a collection that drew inspiration from the brand’s archive. Among the greatest hits were a glorious belted mac coat, cut-out knitted dresses and boxy crop tops; although the standout for me was the slinky slip dress, which Kate Sylvester has always excelled at. I like the panelling, the sheer detailing and how the fluidity of the silhouette was offset with a slightly tough, dangling chain.” — Jessica Beresford, contributing editor

Nicole Van Vuuren

“The Viva Next Gen show was a true highlight of the week for me. Seeing some of the smaller brands in our fashion community come together and showcase their hard work was magical. It was incredibly difficult to choose just one favourite look but this piece by Nicole Van Vuuren really took my breath away. Using only recycled or repurposed fabrics, this piece has taken imagination and creativity to a whole new level, something I didn’t see a lot of during the week. The styling was also considered and effortless, just enough and not too much. I particularly liked the hand-made Jibbitz charms for the Crocs, extra care and thought and kind of iconic.” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

Flying Fox Clothing

“I grew up on the West Coast (rain) and lived, for a long time, in Christchurch (cold). And then I moved to Auckland and there were no days that required a full-length, single button merino coat with contrasting gloves, hat and scarf. I forgot the joy of a jacket; the finishing power of a statement outer layer. Enter Flying Fox and its Viva Next Gen show collection — especially this oversized, patch-pocketed gem. I loved its icy soft blue exterior, its splotchy floral interior lining (that beautifully extends to the pocket flaps) and, most of all, the way I could imagine retreating into that enormous hood. Some days, you just want to read a book in a blanket tent in the living room. Or you could just wear this coat.” — Kim Knight, senior writer

Campbell Luke

“The pieces from Campbell Luke’s storied show worked so well to balance the moving narrative with total practicality. I feel this look captures all of the collection’s charms (and is really wearable). The sunny print of the matching set, the billowy sheer shirt and the breezy volume. I love the styling around it too. The playful yellow ribbon, heavy black shoes and delicate plaits — it’s thoughtful but approachable.” — Madeleine Crutchley, multimedia journalist

Kiri Nathan

“I sometimes wear a formal lavalava for formal family occasions, so when this look came down the runway at Kiri Nathan’s show I was drawn to it immediately. I tried this on during the week (trying to harness at least half the swag that Teeks had on the runway), only replacing Kiri’s beautiful silk T-shirt with a cotton one from local maker Doug’s. I’ve always been curious about how migration influences so much of how we dress and what we choose to wear and this denim set felt like everything I love about the way Kiri designs with her community in mind. The urbanisation of Māori and Pasifika peoples and the experiences we have in certain spaces, how we navigate two worlds every day — this ensemble represents so many people. Even more remarkable was the way in which the garments were constructed — it’s beautifully made. The jacket is tailored to perfection and the quality of the denim is built to last. She’s always been one to imbue our culture and stories into fashion in such a natural way, proudly flying the flag for fashion made from here by dressing prime ministers and celebrities alike, but this look is a celebration of our ancestors, the ones that really paved the way. It truly takes Kiri Nathan to another level.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Su’Mar

“I’m sorry, but how cute is this peach summer dress by Su’Mar?! A sweet update on peplum-style dresses of the mid-noughts, it features a generous ruffle through the waist, while its short hemline is perfect for showing off chic slides or sandals.” — Ashleigh Cometti, beauty editor

Nineteen99

“It was a week for emerging talent and a new generation of local designers — inspiring stuff — and though it’s hard to pick one favourite from this refreshing cohort, the looks presented by Frandson Bahati’s label Nineteen99 at the end of the week (part of the Fashion Night group show on the Friday) provided a striking note, joining a chorus of designers redefining what New Zealand style is. This outfit is a great example of contemporary menswear that also speaks to a wider context (though, of course, it would look great on anyone) with the label’s distinctive prints used to excellent effect. I look forward to seeing what Bahati does next. Watch this space.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

J.Bush

“Looove this dress from Poneke-based designer James Bush’s collection as part of Viva’s Next Gen Show. Designing under the name J.Bush, James’ label combines traditional womenswear with English men’s tailoring, which he describes as “a combination of hard and soft, tension and release”. This sultry black dress personifies those elements with its silky fabric and sculptural lines.” — Johanna Thornton, deputy editor