My Town: Marlin’s Dreaming’s Semisi Ma’ia’i’s Favourite Places in Dunedin

The musician shares the best spots in Ōtepoti.

With a new album, HIRL, out now and a tour to prepare for, being invited to share his hometown with Viva comes at a good time for Semisi Ma’ia’i. Currently based Auckland, the band grew up in Dunedin, and many of the band’s new songs consider what it’s like to be taken away from home.

“I was born and raised around Saint Clair in Ōtepoti, and I lived there until about three years ago when I moved up to Tāmaki Makaurau,” Semisi says. “I’m not entirely sure why I left — I just felt a change coming, and sometimes you’ve got to act on that feeling before it starts eating away at you. It’s been a while since I’ve been back, so I’m feeling a bit estranged. But I’m heading back soon, and I’m sure everything will fall right back into place.”

My favourite venue for live music would have to be The Crown on Rattray St. There’s always such a variety of music happening there on any given night. And Jones, who owns and runs the place, brings such a great energy. There’s a real sense of openness and inclusiveness at The Crown, more than you’d expect just from looking in through the windows.

For records, I love Relics Music Store in Central Dunedin. Good vibes, good people and really good tastemaking.

Formative to my music journey, Chick’s Hotel Recording Studio was my first dive into professional recording. I went in with my old band, GROMz, and that’s when it hit me: I could actually make this my life. There’s nothing quite like hearing songs you’ve jammed in a tinny room suddenly captured through quality mics — it’s a feeling you can’t recreate. Tom Bell crafted such an enchanting atmosphere in that old hotel. I’ve got so many great memories from recording there, and it will always hold a special place in my heart.

My favourite restaurant is The Esplanade in Saint Clair — my mum’s restaurant and hands down my favourite spot to eat in Ōtepoti. I’ve been going there since I was a clumsy teenager, accidentally spilling beers on unsuspecting customers. It was my workplace for many years, and they serve up authentic Italian wood-fired pizzas and house-made pasta.

I’m not the type to stick to one cafe or be overly loyal. I love a good cup of coffee, but I’m not too picky. I like to mix things up and there are so many great spots in and around the city. Back when I was flatting around the Exchange, Daily Coffee Co. was our regular hangout. But Van Guard and RDC are definitely worth a mention too.

The Port Chalmers Fish Supply has the best fish burger around. Honestly, it’s the best I’ve ever had and ridiculously cheap. It’s a go-to for surfers hitting the waves at Aramoana. I’ve got plenty of memories of long surf sessions, feeling ravenous after hours on the water, and then grabbing one of these fish burgers for the drive home.

My favourite bar is The Crown. Besides being one of New Zealand’s legendary music venues, it’s also a great bar. Jone’s has framed an impressive collection of Dunedin Sound posters, covering the walls with them. It’s fascinating to see all the different show flyers. The beer is always cold. There’s also a classic jukebox that’s regularly updated with local bands and also boasts a unique selection of rare New Zealand rock music.

Hotere Garden Oputae at Port Chalmers is a secret gem. Wrapped around the ridge, gazing out over the harbour and the industrial sprawl, there’s this little sculpture garden. It’s small, but it certainly packs a punch. First thing you’ll spot is Ralph Hotere’s Black Phoenix II (1991). And honestly, that alone is worth the visit.

The best drive is Taieri Mouth. Tearing down the tarmac at a hundred, windows wide open, The Clean rattling out of the tinny car speakers. A narrow track between farm fields and the ocean. This is the drive to Taieri Mouth — just 35 minutes from the city, but it feels like another world. The coastline’s wild and rugged, and when you finally roll into that little fishing village, it’s like stepping back in time. Well worth the trip.

My favourite buildings are in the centre of Dunedin, and on Green Island. Not quite in my neck of the woods, but the city centre’s got its fair share. Buildings like the public hospital and Unicol — they’ve carved a kind of character into Ōtepoti that’s hard to miss. There’s a stubborn brutalism to them, something that spills over into the arts and literature. My favourite spot, though, is a small parish church out in Green Island — it’s got a kind of Chicken Run animated look to it.

These are the places I always visit when I return to Dunedin. The Crown for a brew and a gig, or a weeknight game of pool. The Esplanade for a pizza with some friends. My family home is where I have the best sleep of my life every time.

What makes the city special is there’s a sense of identity to Ōtepoti. I don’t know what it is exactly but I feel like Ōtepoti breeds a kind of unique creativity. Everything from poetry, to sculptural art, painting, music … It all feels original, and unbothered by mass validation.

The new Marlin’s Dreaming album ‘HIRL’ is out now on Spotify and Bandcamp. The band is touring Mount Maunganui, New Plymouth, Wellington, Auckland, Lyttelton and Dunedin from September 12-21; they’re playing Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne on September 26, 27 and 28.

Emma Gleason is the Herald’s deputy editor of lifestyle and entertainment (audience), and has worked on Viva for more than four years, contributing stories on culture, fashion and what’s going on in Auckland.

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