Sharing her work with Aucklanders at a special new pop-up in Britomart, Ōtautahi designer Morghan Bradshaw talks about the myriad influences behind her unique style, fashion label Fugawi, and how they translate to her own wardrobe.
“Fashion has given me the ability to create in a way that allows people to feel seen, depending on the moment they are experiencing,” Morghan Bradshaw explains, ahead of a new chapter for her young label, Fugawi.
Although her designs are already worn by some of Aotearoa’s big names, including Stan Walker, they’ll soon be available for shoppers to try and buy for the first time in-store. “I haven’t sold anything to the general public in a retail environment yet so the pop-up will be a great way to see how the public receives my perspective when it comes to style and the message I want my garments to put out into the world,” she says.
Fugawi is part of the Oyster & Moon pop-up shop from June 11 to 22 at Spacefor in Auckland’s Britomart — a physical extension for the online store, which operates as part of Oyster Workshop, an ecosystem of creatives and entrepreneurs that’s driven and owned by Pacific women.
Visitors can expect to find an assortment of her distinctive clothing, including the brand’s distinctive outerwear. “Tailoring is fundamental to my garments. I’ll have a few key pieces in the pop-up including my Ancestors jacket, a few oversized full-length coats, along with my cropped and bomber jackets, tailored wide-legged trousers, and a few other surprises,” she says. “The great thing about the pop-up is that you can come in and if you see something you love, and your size isn’t in stock you can order it on the spot.”
Fugawi explores the idea of narrative. “My label is how I tell stories about my world and the worlds that intersect with mine. I want my clothes to speak to people, their stories and worlds in a really literal way.”
Words are a key part of the label’s design codes, and these pieces have been notably worn by Walker.
“The people who love my clothes want the world to know who they are and what they stand for. This is a big part of making sure that people feel they are seen and being authentic to what they care about.”
So too is a diversity of gender and form. “A lot of my garments are about subverting gender. I don’t really design to a masculine or feminine ideal. Instead, I am interested in capturing an energy or a narrative – if you were walking down the street how would others’ visually receive you and understand you without communication or interaction. I guess this goes back to how people want to exist or feel seen.”
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Advertise with NZME.Though she only finished studying fashion design last year, Morghan has always felt rooted in creativity, and it’s where she feels most comfortable. “Perhaps I’m tapping into ancestral experience and creativity.”
“I’m based in Ōtautahi and have a super diverse background. I’m Cook Islands Māori, from Aitu and Chinese on my mother’s side and Pākehā on my dad’s side.”
Music, always her “happy place”, grounds everything she does, including her design work. “I feel like my two creative halves have come together, music which is my exploration of the internal and fashion which is blatantly an external manifestation of that creativity.”
This thoughtful approach to her practices extends to her personal style, and for the latest in our My Style series, Morghan shares some of her pivotal fashion memories and approach to getting dressed.
Describe your personal style.
It probably arises out of the dark, moody and sensual; full-length body-con dresses, big coats or cropped layers, paired usually with a chunky boot.
Who are your favourite designers?
Rick Owen’s, Fear of God and Vetements and then Yohji Yamamoto for different reasons; silhouettes, experimentation, attention to detail.
What influences your fashion sense?
My inner life. I have a rich inner life which is partly an exploration of my dark side, I would say, mixed with confidence, body positivity, while at the same time representing the realness of insecurities … I’m a mixed pot …. But I always love to feel somewhat sexy.
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Advertise with NZME.What’s your favourite item of clothing?
My skintight black dress from Kookai I got off Marketplace paired with my Ancestors crop jacket… it gives sexy conservative with a story.
How do you put a look together? Do you think it through the night before, or even weeks in advance? Or do you let your mood in the morning guide you?
I can plan for weeks, days, minutes ... But I’ll always end up lying in bed putting the outfit together in my head the day of … Unless it’s an event, then I will probably make something or have it sorted in advance. If I don’t feel good, I act like a goofball in front of the camera and that’s always a regret.
What comes first, accessories or clothes, and why?
I’m so bare minimum with accessories and I usually wear minimal garments too, simple, chic and sexy
Do you listen to any music when getting dressed in the morning, or have any other rituals or things that set the tone?
I have ADHD. I feel like just having ADHD is a ritual, you flow with whatever comes with that wee superpower.
Who do you dress for and why?
I honestly dress for my body shape; I’m curvy and full-bodied and I think we should all be celebrated.
Do you talk about clothes and/or what to wear with friends or family?
I feel like more so with my Mum and Stepdad. We always have convos about what goes together and it’s so cute, they are so fashionable. I have a few fashionista friends who love to doll up and look good so it’s always fun being glam with them
What was your relationship with fashion growing up?
I have always been experimental, like some of the stuff is really out the gate. Ahead of the times I’d like to say… but yes I have always had some kind of obsession with fashion.
How has your relationship to fashion changed since your teenage years?
I’ve gone through so many stages, from boys’ clothes, to hippy, to puffy skirts and now I’m just really into black, body-celebratory stuff that just highlights the womanly figure
What’s one item of clothing you’ve kept since you were a teenager? And one you regret getting rid of?
With ADHD you obsess about things and then once they are gone you kind of forget they existed … so no real regrets. But I do remember this two-piece suit, a deep purple colour, in primary school, that my Mum gave away, I think to my little cousin, and I’ve just never recovered from it. I haven’t held on to anything, I’ve gone through and just given so much away.
What piece of clothing have you inherited that’s particularly special to you?
There is a grey suit that’s in my wardrobe that belonged to my mum’s grandmother, my great nan and I’ll never ever fit it again … well the bottoms but I have it kept safe… it’s so beautiful and precious
What item should you wear more but don’t?
I should show more skin.
Where do you love to shop?
I love a good thrift store, all of them – there is always a hidden gem.
What item/s are on your wish list right now?
I want to design and have my own stuff, walking catalogue.
What do you find challenging or frustrating about shopping, clothes or fashion?
Not being able to find things that suit my body shape.
Who inspires you?
My friends honestly and the chosen people around me; I’ve spent so long choosing people, but the past year I have met and been chosen by the most beautiful, unique, driven and wonderful humans, they inspire me and they encourage me to believe in myself with my whole heart. Same with my parents.
What has fashion taught you about yourself?
That you can say so much without uttering a word.
What’s the best style advice anyone has ever given you?
Don’t hide yourself and appreciate your body in all its forms; clothing is just décor.
How do clothes add to your identity?
It’s a choice and invitation to be authentic to yourself for yourself.
The Oyster & Moon pop-up store, is open at Spacefor, 10 Te Ara Tahuhu in Britomart, Auckland, from June 11 to 22, and is supported by the North Asia Centre for Asia-Pacific Excellence.
Emma Gleason is the deputy editor of lifestyle and entertainment (audience), and has worked on Viva for over four years, contributing stories on culture, fashion and what’s going on in Auckland.
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