My Style: For Fashion Designer Julia Fong, Clothes Are Personal

With an approach to fashion that’s practical, clever and unflinchingly committed to slowness, as she relaunches her namesake label, Julia Fong tells Viva about her approach to style and how it’s evolved.

Auckland-based designer Julia Fong made her name in the 2000s with clever patternmaking, sculptural simplicity and an artistic edge that resonated with that era in New Zealand.

Her label, first established in 1997, was stocked at Scotties and always creatively attuned. There was a free-to-the-public show at Auckland Art Gallery for a “punk Victoriana’' collection in 2002 (off-schedule during fashion week) and in 2003 she created doll-sized versions of her designs for an installation. Then in 2009 she took a break.

Now, she’s back, reviving her eponymous brand, a move that follows a family-focused hiatus, raising three “amazing” sons — Tiger, Ryder, and Cato — with their “incredible” father.

There’s a new collection, and since it’s 2024, a website and Instagram account. Why now?

“I decided to relaunch my label because I get to express myself creatively, and I love the problem-solving aspect of getting a two-dimensional item to look great in three dimensions. I believe I offer women an alternative look that will not be seen everywhere.”

Her approach has shifted. “The first time round my look was more tailored, fitted, with a lot of luxe fabrics like silks. My current designs have evolved with my own style.”

Julia designs what she would wear or find interesting, and the new work answers different demands.

“I’ve broken out of the old shapes and silhouettes. I’ve become very practical and precious with my time. Therefore, my clothes must be easy-care and travel well. If a style will suit a hidden pocket, consider it hid. My designs are uber wearable.”

It was change that spurred her to bring the label back, inspired by shifting attitudes. “To be honest I don’t know if I would have relaunched if the industry had not changed in the past few years. The move toward slow fashion, seasonless, being more sustainable and ethical, this has taken the pressure off a nutty situation.”

Creating the collection is very hands-on. “The design stage looks like a bunch of scribbles and pinning scraps of fabric on the mannequin or myself before creating the paper pattern. I make the first sample myself, which allows me to fine-tune as I go,” she explains. “For production, I like using self-employed machinists; this one-on-one arrangement lets me get the design and construction details just right, as well as foster a good relationship.”

The new iteration embraces a seasonless, made-to-order model — she only holds a “limited” amount of stock — that supports a slower form of fashion, facilitated by local production. “I have always manufactured in New Zealand and built great relationships with my contractors. I have a lot of respect for their high skill level and pride in their workmanship.”

Working from her home studio, she’s “living the slow fashion dream” and continually adding to the collection, “making drops at a sensible pace and responding to customer feedback for inspiration and to find out what’s missing from their wardrobes”.

Inspiration can be more abstract too, like the way a piece of fabric is folded or creates a shadow, Julia explains.

Has her customer changed? “Weirdly or not, my market has stayed pretty much the same,” says Julia. “It seems to resonate most with women in their 40s to 50s and beyond. One thing they seem to have in common is a self-assured confidence and no desire to follow trends.” They value clothing that’s interesting, comfortable, easy-care and flattering.

There was a pop-up shop (in collaboration with Shen) in Grey Lynn last month, and the collection is available on Julia Fong’s website, with a selection of 12 stocked at Scotties in Ponsonby, where she soft-launched some of the first pieces at the end of 2022 to sound out designs.

Julia has a history with the retailer; before starting her namesake label, she gained experience in garment construction and pattern-making under revered New Zealand fashion designer Marilyn Sainty, who co-founded Scotties with Sonja Batt in 1979; Julia and Beth Ellery were seen as continuing Marilyn’s ethos after she closed the eponymous line in 2005, and Marilyn told Viva the two were “very clever”.

“I will always be grateful for the support and opportunity that Marilyn and Sonja had given me,” says Julia, who’s been in the industry for 30 years.

It was creating textile sculptures in her final year of Fine Arts at Elam that led to a revelation. “I worked out I could be making clothes for a living,” says Julia. “Three dimensions and an understanding of how fabric conforms was what I understood intuitively.”

Fast forward to 2024 and that approach defines the new range, with wearable pieces that utilise innovative patternmaking and quality textiles – like the Sweetness and Light Dress Julia is wearing when we visited her Westmere studio; a loose, crisp garment with a relaxed elegance, her sleeves were rolled up and the button fastening at the back left undone, and she had on Commes Des Garçons x Spalwart Blaster Sneakers.

Its success, and that of the well-received Sweet Devotion Top, is something Julia credits to its ease. “It comes in one size and looks good on a variety of figures. Its trick is that it can be worn back to front, styled in multiple ways, and worn all year round.”

She loves engaging with customers and answering their queries. “I love connecting with and helping women get something that suits their style.”

Julia, describe your personal style?

Understated, comfortable, minimalist.

What was your relationship with fashion growing up?

I made my own clothes when I was a teen, or altered Mum’s old clothes to modernise them. It was part dressing up, part using my hands to create something. It’s quite a satisfying process; it still is.

What’s one of your earliest fashion memories?

Two spring to mind. I was a teen of the 1980s, so it would have to be raiding Dad’s wardrobe for a tie to wear with a man’s shirt. Also, saving to buy a studded leather belt that looped twice around the body. Unfortunately, it tended to scratch the inside of the back of your chair.

How has your relationship to fashion changed since your teenage years?

Fashion has always been for self-expression and fun. When you are younger you tend to forfeit comfort (and sometimes mobility) for style, now comfort is a top priority. I’m happy to say I still wear what I want.

What’s one item of clothing you’ve kept since you were a teenager?

Not quite an item of clothing but an accessory, a black satin zip choker that I made and sold. Waiting to crack that one out again.

What item do you regret getting rid of?

I donated an Ann Demeulemeester twisted wool cardi to charity. Trust me, I recognise that is a first-world problem.

What item in your wardrobe have you worn to death?

I made some cropped, super low crutch, stretchy, balloon pants. They flatten your tummy, and the leg profile is spot on. So comfortable where it counts, and soft on the skin. I get nice comments when I wear them, so I’ve decided to include them in the range. Watch my Instagram for the release date.

What do you find challenging or frustrating about shopping, clothes or fashion?

Having to buy an occasional outfit that you can’t get a lot of wear out of drives me nuts. I was brought up to be grateful and not to be wasteful. That’s why I tend to design clothes that you can fancify with a bit of styling and the right accessories.

Who inspires you?

A lot of people inspire me, but if I had to narrow it down I’d have to say my parents. True unto themselves, seeking out what is important and what matters most. They set an example that trickles down to the rest of the family.

Who are your favourite designers, and why?

I’ve always admired the Japanese designers Junya Watanabe, Commes Des Garcons, Issey Miyake. I find the simplicity, focus on silhouettes and quiet inventiveness appealing. I also love the label Undercover. Great combination of clever details, weirdness, edginess, and street.

We also have a wealth of talented makers in New Zealand. One of them being Steven Park of 6x4 label. He is a multi-disciplinary artist with a focus on textiles, who works with such precision, nuance, and new perspective. Each piece is imbued with meaning.

What has fashion taught you about yourself?

Self-expression. I get a lot of joy seeing how creative people are. I had a pop up recently and the best thing was seeing the customer’s confidence in their individual style.

What’s the best style advice anyone has ever given you?

I gave myself my best advice. (Am I allowed to say that?) Dress how you want, have fun, and ultimately, wear what suits you and makes you feel good.

Emma Gleason is the deputy editor of lifestyle and entertainment (audience) and has worked on Viva for more than four years, contributing stories on culture, fashion and what’s going on in Auckland. Viva’s insightful My Style series has seen her speak to Mermaidens’ Gussie Larkin and model Kaarina Parker about their approach to getting dressed.

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