Academic and artist Aorangi Kora’s crochet pieces have been winning fans online and off. Viva’s Emma Gleason caught up with her to discuss her approach to style.
Her distinctive knits have found an audience on Instagram – where she posts under the handle Crochet Bae – and Aorangi Kora’s one of many local makers who are using social media to share their craft.
It began with sharing things she’d been making, as friends and whānau had been asking to buy her pieces. Followers grew steadily, but things “really blew up” when she posted a picture of her Tino Rangatiratanga poraka (sweater).
The piece (which took over 40 hours to make) was inspired by attending a nationwide activation in Pōneke at the beginning of 2024.
“Seeing so many Māori come together in kotahitanga, proudly wearing their culture on their backs, faces and bodies was such an amazing thing to witness. I saw a girl wearing her own knitted sweater with the tino flag on it and was immediately inspired to figure out how to make my own, and I did.”
She made a prototype and then reached out to Whaea Linda Munn – one of the artists of the Tino Rangatiratanga kara (flag) – to introduce herself and discuss the sweater and whether commerciality was appropriate.
“Making sure I do everything tika (right) was definitely at the top of my list. After getting the okay from her is when I started to open up orders for more,” she says.
“Everything I make is with the full intentions of being ethically made and high-quality so that it can be passed on to your children, their children and so on.”
The piece resonated with people, and Aorangi admits to being “completely overwhelmed by the response”.
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Advertise with NZME.Despite the popularity, the business is a one-woman show; Aorangi goes at her own pace, with Crochet Bae remaining a grassroots endeavour.
“In terms of growing an audience, I am very much an amateur and I don’t really have a ‘strategy’,” says Aorangi. “I just make things that I think look cool and post content that I think looks good and it seems to be working! I use both Instagram and TikTok and have had a few viral posts, so that has been pretty amazing to see such a huge response to my mahi.”
That mahi has been organic too. Aorangi taught herself to knit while pregnant in 2019. “I was hapū as, was a stay-at-home māmā and living in Sydney at the time. I realised I didn’t have any knitted booties or beanies yet so I jumped on YouTube and learnt that way,” she explains. “I’ve always been a self-taught kind of person since I was a young girl.”
Crochet was a skill she picked up from her mother – an “avid” fan of the craft – who taught Aorangi the basics in 2023. “I was immediately addicted and fell down all of the crochet fashion rabbit holes, and now here I am with Crochet Bae.”
Her process is fluid; once she has an idea, or sees something that sparks inspiration, she’ll figure out how to execute it in her medium of choice.
“There is a lot of “winging it”, backtracking and unravelling involved but I think learning by doing is the best way.”
As with the famous sweater, intention and audience are important for every piece she makes.
“While there is such a huge demand for my mahi, I don’t ever plan on growing it into some large-scale, mass-producing thing,” she says. “Fast fashion and consumerism is killing Papatūānuku. I think producers and consumers need to be more conscious of the impact their choices (lifestyle, fashion, anything!) have on our taiao (natural environment) and the legacy we are leaving behind for future generations.”
It’s something that’s constantly on Aorangi’s mind. “I think that in all of our endeavours (especially business/commerce) we have a responsibility to uphold the mana of others, including Papatūānuku.”
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Advertise with NZME.Aotearoa is her base now, and while Aorangi wakapapa to many areas of the country, Ōpōtiki and Feilding are home. “He uri ahau nō Ngāti Kauwhata, Rangitāne, Te Whakatōhea, Ngāti Porou, Rongowhakaata, Kai Tahu hoki. I was born and raised in Ōpōtiki, but now based in the Manawatū.”
Crochet is just part of her mahi. “I juggle a few different pōtae (hats) at the moment. I am a māmā, a creative, a researcher, a student, and an early career academic.”
The past few years have seen her studying, working in academia and health psychology, focusing on kaupapa Māori health and wellbeing.
“I recently went back to full time study to complete my PhD in psychology so you could say I enjoy a challenge! I’m extremely passionate about helping my people (plus I’ve always been a bit of a nerd), so as daunting as it can seem sometimes I love every bit of it.
“I’m a strong believer that we all have a responsibility to leave the world in a better state than when we arrived, so this motivates a lot of what I do.”
Practical tasks help her get out of her head, and Aorangi finds respite in crochet and knitting. “It’s a good way for me to channel my creativity while still feeling productive.”
Making pieces for Crochet Bae isn’t a fulltime gig. “I break it up and just work it in around my tamariki, study and mahi,” she says. “I usually just knit once the kids have gone to bed or when I need a coffee break from work, so to finish one item could take anywhere between two to six weeks depending on what it is.”
Handknits and crochet are enjoying a revival, with local endeavours Monday Journal, Itchy Knits and mother-daughter duo Dorothy joining established New Zealand brands like Frisson in the tight-knit renaissance of craft.
But not everyone understands how much time goes into this kind of work. “I think people still undervalue it,” Aorangi says. “People are so used to being able to buy cheap clothes in every colour that they don’t appreciate the time, effort and skill that goes into slow fashion, especially crochet and knitwear.”
Why the renaissance? What’s made crochet cool again? “I can’t speak for anyone else, but for myself I do it because one, I love the feeling of making my own clothes that no one else has – blending in is boring! – and two, I totally want to be ‘that nanny’ whose mokopuna will be running around in the coolest handmade gears saying ‘thanks, my Taua (nanny) made it for me’.”
Describe your personal style.
My style changes depending on my mood and the occasion. Most people see me in an oversized hoodie, black flares and a mum bun lol. If I have an occasion or hui, I’ll usually be wearing mostly black, shoes that make me look taller (heels or platform chucks), and some Māori inspired jewellery/taonga Māori. I also love a good festival outfit which is its own style altogether! So I guess I’m a bit of a mixed bag.
What influences your fashion sense?
Practicality and comfort mostly, but I also love me some contemporary Māori fashion!
What’s your favourite item of clothing?
I’m a bit biased, but at the moment it is definitely my Tino Rangatiratanga poraka I knitted myself. I love the thought of wearing something you’ve put lots of time and aroha into making, but also I think it’s such a statement piece too. I get loads of looks and compliments when I wear it, so that’s always nice too.
How do you put a look together? Do you think it through the night before (or even weeks in advance) or do you let your mood in the morning guide you?
If it’s for a special occasion or event then I will plan it well in advance, but on a day-to-day basis, I just let my mood guide me. If I feel like I need to feel inspired or like I need a boost, then putting on a cute fit and doing my hair and makeup (even if I’m not leaving the house) is a good way to do it. Look good, feel good or whatever the saying is.
What comes first, accessories or clothes?
I guess clothes first, because I usually pick accessories to complement my outfit.
Do you listen to any music when getting dressed in the morning, or have any other rituals?
Getting ready slowly in silence in the morning before my tamariki wake up is my favourite way to start the day. It usually means I have to wake up at 5am, but it really does set the tone for my day. If I wake up feeling rushed, the rest of the day is usually stressful so I try to avoid that.
Who do you dress for and why?
I dress for myself of course because it’s no one else’s business what I wear really lol.
Do you talk about clothes with friends or family?
I love talking about my kids’ clothes with them and hyping up their outfits. I love seeing them choose and develop their own unique style and seeing them confident in their self-expression. If my son wants to go to kura in a Bluey costume, Ninja Turtles mask and mismatched socks, then I hype it up and send him on his way lol.
What was your relationship with fashion growing up?
I think it’s definitely been a creative outlet for me without even realising. Apart from high school (trying to blend in and follow the cool kids), I’ve always loved trying new things and just being a little bit different.
What’s one of your earliest fashion memories?
As a younger girl, I remember being obsessed with prints and sparkles. I remember having these loud, pink, sparkly jeans from HBK (IYKYK) and they were my favourite thing ever.
How has your relationship to fashion changed since your teenage years?
I just wear what makes me feel good. The joy of being in your 30s is that you stop caring about what other people think so I could either leave the house looking like a hot mess or like Queen Bey, it’s like a lucky dip you never know what you’re going to get!
What’s one item of clothing you’ve kept since you were a teenager? And one you regret getting rid of?
I don’t regret getting rid of anything because, at the end of the day, it’s just “stuff”. I do have one T-shirt from when I was in primary school. It’s one of my dad’s old logging company’s T-shirts and I guess I just keep it for the sentimental value.
What piece of clothing have you inherited that’s particularly special to you?
I don’t really put much value in clothing as such, but I do love kete and taonga Māori. I have a pīkau (a backpack-style kete) which I love to use as a handbag that belonged to my older sister. I stole it out of my mother’s wardrobe so I 100% consider that to be inherited lol.
What item in your wardrobe have you worn to death?
My Crocs.
What item should you wear more but don’t?
Probably shoes that aren’t Crocs or Uggs!
Where do you love to shop?
I love thrifting and try to avoid buying things brand new these days (unless it’s high quality). So op shops and online re-sellers are where I do most of my shopping now!
Who are your favourite designers, and why?
Any and all Māori fashion designers, Māori weavers, carvers, and other ringatoi are my favourite. They all have their own unique way of showcasing te ao Māori while embodying Māori values, and also play a huge role in revitalising a lot of our customary knowledge and practices.
What’s on your wish list right now?
I have been wanting a kete from Charlene Fraser and/or her daughter Shainey Morelli for years! They are the most finely woven, intricate kete that I would both use on a daily basis or just hang on my wall. It’s the kind of thing that will stay in your whānau for generations too, so would be well worth the investment. I would rather one of those over a Gucci or Prada bag any day.
What do you find challenging or frustrating about shopping, clothes or fashion?
The most frustrating thing is fast fashion. People care too much about having the latest “thing” in every colour and care too little about the impact consumerism has on our planet. I cringe every time I see a “haul” on social media, because you just know most of that stuff is going to end up in the bin within a year.
What has fashion taught you about yourself?
I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s taught me anything about myself I didn’t already know, I just see it as one of many ways to express myself.
What’s the best style advice anyone has ever given you?
I get unsolicited style advice from my tamariki every day, so I think whatever roasts they have for me are the best because they keep me humble!
How do clothes and fashion help you shape your identity?
Again, I don’t see it as shaping my identity as such but more so one of many creative ways to express myself.
Who inspires you?
Lots of people, but my tamariki probably inspire and motivate me in most things.
Besides crochet and knitting, what other craft practices do you do?
I love making sourdough bread from scratch and am also an avid gardener. Learning how to make a rewana bug and rewana bread is next on my list of things to learn!
Emma Gleason is the Herald’s deputy editor of lifestyle and entertainment (audience), and has worked on Viva for more than four years, contributing stories on culture, fashion and what’s going on in Auckland.
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