Who served the best looks at this year’s Met Gala? Dan Ahwa and Julia Gessler cast their expert eyes across the parade of whimsy and dish out some very specific awards.
It’s the first Monday of May in the Eastern Time Zone, which means fashion’s most gregarious parade is descending
The dress code this year — “The Garden of Time”, a nod to English novelist J.G. Ballard’s short story of the same name about creation and destruction, whereby an unruly and ragged army descends on a garden of crystal flowers owned by a count and countess in their idyllic villa, only to find it in ruin and decay — might be one of the most cerebral dress codes in history, and is somewhat linked to the museum’s accompanying exhibition Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, a display of fragile garments from the Costume Insitute’s archives that are too delicate to be worn by man or, in some cases, by manequin. All of this is to say that there are flowers (a lot of them).
There is also a lot riding on this year’s Met Gala. There’s the reported last-minute change of theme from a John Galliano monographic exhibition to something less polarising (last year’s Karl Lagerfeld tribute was already complicated), despite the designer having a ubiquitous presence on the night through his designs for Maison Margiela.
There’s the main sponsor TikTok and Anna Wintour having to field questions about how CEO Shou Zi Chew will serve as an honorary co-chair despite the app facing legislative challenges in the U.S. There’s publisher Condé Nast’s union bargaining reaching a tentative agreement on wage increases, parental leave, hybrid work and more just 12 hours before the first guests were set to arrive (a disruption from disgruntled employees would be a major setback for Wintour’s notoriously meticulous party planning).
Despite the odds, famous faces soldiered on, cautiously stepping out onto a carpet that looked like it had mold growing across it (perhaps an actual nod to the theme of nature and decay). To mark the occasion, this year we decided to dish out unofficial awards to the ensembles that made us look.
Zendaya
Awarded for: Attending the Met Gala
It was the question everybody wanted to know — what will Zendaya, who hasn’t attended the gala in five years, wear? — and the answer is gothic plumage courtesy of Maison Margiela Artisanal’s John Galliano and jewels from Bulgari. It’s a moody, trumpeted look replete with leaves and fruit from the actress and her long-time collaborator, “image architect” Law Roach, akin to tortured poison ivy but with a fascinator that could’ve erred stuffy but didn’t (though some have been quick to point out it does skew Carrie Bradshaw). Undoubtedly one of the best looks of the night. — Julia Gessler
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Awarded for: Attending not once but twice!
She does it again, this time with a surprise second look — a John Galliano-era Givenchy gown with a hyperbolic train — towards the end of the evening. It’s all topped off with an enormous bouquet attached to her head — a 2006 floral number designed by Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen. — Julia Gessler
Josh O’Connor
Awarded for: Best embellished shoes
The Challengers actor once again dons a cerebral fit from Loewe complete with clever tuxedo tails that trail behind him. But are those floral/glitter embellished clogs? Somehow the unique choice of footwear works well for an added dose of irreverence. — Dan Ahwa
Gwendoline Christie
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Advertise with NZME.Awarded for: Making the catwalk her theatre
She closed Maison Margiela’s history-making show by sauntering like a doll in a corseted gown shrouded in tinted rubber in January, so it’s no surprise that the actress opted for more theatre from the French fashion house, this time in vampiric velvet, a tulle opera coat and a nest of hair. It’s nice to see the avant-garde bizarreness play out with the energy of a stylish wicked step-mother. — Julia Gessler
Bad Bunny
Awarded for: Best Mad Hatter impersonation
The co-chair and Tití Me Preguntó singer serves us some serious custom Maison Margiela with all the trims, including the brand’s signature split-toe Tabi shoes with some type of hairy spat. It’s giving a slightly bonkers, Mad Hatter from Alice In Wonderland vibe which feels apt for the dress code’s surrealist undertones. — Dan Ahwa
Lena Waithe
Awarded for: Best yee-haw style
The actor and producer has a singular sense of self-assured style that I gravitate to every time, and this intricately embroidered leather three-piece Etro set is perfectly accessorised with a pair of angular, stomping western boots. A sweeping coat gives the right amount of drama. — Dan Ahwa
Aurora James
Awarded for: Best use of wood
The founder and designer of the cult label Brother Vellies offers a touch of the natural world with this ornate wooden bodice which perfectly sits in contrast to the organic draping of her skirt. — Dan Ahwa
Colman Domingo
Awarded for: Best sweeping cape
The actor and playwright has a very good eye for fashion, and this elegant Willy Chavarria look is made even more dramatic with a floor-skimming cape built into a classic, cream tuxedo jacket. The addition of white Calla lilies makes a beautiful cameo. — Dan Ahwa
Lana Del Rey
Awarded for: Best twigs
The singer seemed to be channeling the Antler Queen from the teen psychological thriller Yellowjackets with this twig look from Alexander McQueen’s Seán McGirr, though really it was an homage to the brand’s 2006 collection, which sported resin horns enveloped in cream silk tulle. It’s an ethereal ensemble that’s part bridal, part Miss Havisham, with a romantic flourish of a rose. J’adore! — Julia Gessler
Kendall Jenner
Awarded for: Best archival gown
Alexander McQueen’s tenure at Givenchy is a specific era in fashion that is entirely appropriate for the theme, and this 1999 vintage design is a surprising win for Jenner who debuted at the Met Gala 10 years ago wearing a gown from Topshop. — Dan Ahwa
Charli XCX
Awarded for: Best use of a New Zealand hair stylist
Charli and Marni is a union that makes total sense, the singer is a blueprint for a specific upcycled, distressed denim Gen-Z aesthetic (along with Julia Fox). A patchwork of vintage T-shirts is a great way to showcase the singer’s anarchic spirit, along with complementary spiky hair by New Zealand hair stylist Matt Benns. — Dan Ahwa
Chioma Nnadi
Awarded for: Best dress over trouser layer
Chioma’s style is always effortlessly eclectic which is no mean feat. I’m sure there’s method to the mix, and the British Vogue editor doesn’t disappoint in this sunny Burberry dress over trousers look. — Dan Ahwa
Greta Lee
Awarded for: Making moss cool again
She’s become one of fashion’s most playful dressers (almost always landing on something cool), and this Loewe look is no exception. It’s interesting and weird, protuding out but slinking down in a cascade of lace and moss-like appliques. — Julia Gessler
Barry Keoghan
Awarded for: Best bow
Barry Keoghan clearly loves to take a sartorial risk, and this Burberry ensemble is a smart one. As if straight out of a Dickens novel, the Irish actor is swaddled in silk poplin and some very earthy brown velvet. A moment for his watch worn over the cuff. — Julia Gessler