Since parting ways with Zambesi in 2023 after 20 years, one of the country’s most prolific fashion designers, Dayne Johnston, has spent the past two years assimilating into the brand DNA and design ethos for another pioneering New Zealand fashion label, Kowtow. He talks to Dan Ahwa about
“To explain the process, it was like force quitting my computer and starting again.”
While it might seem like there’s an endless rotation of head designers and creative directors at some of the world’s prestigious fashion houses, in New Zealand, those at the helm of designing clothes for New Zealanders are few and far between.
More often than not, they are designers who reluctantly play the fame game, preferring in that quintessentially Kiwi way to stay behind drawn curtains, to let their work speak for itself.
For 20 years, fashion designer Dayne Johnston made his quiet and confident mark as one of the country’s leading designers for the iconic New Zealand brand Zambesi, before departing that role in 2023 for his current role as head designer at Kowtow, relocating from Auckland to Wellington in the process.
“Beginning at Kowtow was like learning a different vocabulary,” Dayne says.
“Zambesi was so ingrained into my DNA, that I had to let go and learn a new language, which opened me up as a designer and made me question everything about myself. I am working with a much larger team and this has been a complete reset, which has been challenging and extremely inspiring. I love the collaboration.”
Two years on (it takes 18 months in advance to produce each collection), Dayne has immersed himself in the brand’s ethos of creating sustainable fashion, and the result of that work manifested in his take on Kowtow with the launch this week of his first, fully-fledged designs for the brand.
Before the New Year, its creative director Marilou Dadat announced she was relocating to Sweden after seven years with Kowtow, and early last year we covered the brand’s commitment to being fully plastic-free.
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Advertise with NZME.Being part of that drive to implement sustainable practices in his almost three-decade-long career has been another key part of Dayne’s ongoing design journey.
“I was part of a sustainability strategy workshop at the Kowtow HQ recently which was held in collaboration with our partners at Go Well Consulting,” he says speaking from the brand’s Pōneke base.
“For me, this opened my eyes to the continuing destruction of the world and made me very worried. I feel thankful Kowtow are leaders in protecting the planet and being transparent about every part of the business. I hope in turn this inspires other fashion brands to do good things for the world.
“I really admire Kowtow’s circular design principles. Everything is considered, including reducing waste, making products that last and also regenerating the natural environment at every point of the process. We went plastic-free at the beginning of 2024 and this is an important way forward for the future of fashion.”
So how does that ethos translate to the clothes?
In short, sophisticated soft tailoring, energetic colour and print, and a love letter to the places and landscapes that Dayne calls home.
It’s difficult not to look past Dayne’s design credentials without acknowledging his significant contribution to redefining menswear in New Zealand, and for his latest role, it’s an opportunity to flex those skills across some of the brand’s more gender-neutral offerings, for which there are plenty.
“I have approached the women’s collection with a menswear lens and perspective, which I think really suits the brand,” says Dayne. “It keeps ideas fresh and new coming from a different perspective. For me, it was about bringing a chic element to the collections and creating an everyday wardrobe that demonstrates ease and comfort which the label is well known for.
“I came from a menswear background and the introduction of womenswear has opened me up even further and challenged me in a very exciting way, taking me outside my comfort zone. I reference a lot of menswear techniques in the process which are visible in the new collection. My love of menswear remains and we have added more menswear into the new collections which will grow with time and is very exciting for the brand.”
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Advertise with NZME.The brand’s commitment to using 100% Fairtrade organic cotton also plays a deciding factor on what to create from this durable textile, with Dayne explaining how the brand’s founder Gosia Pitaek has a particular love of menswear too.
“Working with 100% cotton already has a masculine undertone and I think my menswear influence has been woven naturally into the range. Gosia is attracted to menswear and we both gravitate towards similar things, it feels complementary and there is a slight shift that the brand is embracing and it feels like a very exciting time for Kowtow.”
Kowtow’s distinctive prints - bespoke patterns and abstract art rendered on to soft cotton dresses and separates - are as much a part of Kowtow’s DNA as its voluminous silhouettes, working closely with Kowtow’s textile designer Olivia Simpson.
“Prints are part of the Kowtow DNA and as soon as I started I embraced it. We have the luxury at Kowtow to dip every single colour we use. I lead the colour palette and together with Olivia and the team we choose and edit the colours. Each textile is created from the beginning under my direction. Rather than working in a traditional way, selecting fabrics which are already designed and made, we design each fabric in-house which is a very considered way of working.
“Olivia is responsible for designing each loom and print from scratch. I love the luxury of having a textile designer/artist based within the atelier with me, magic is always happening and the evolution of the collections starts from the textiles.
“The time it takes to build this is major and the goal each season is to develop new qualities of organic cotton and really work on the texture, weights and balance of the offering. Olivia is brilliant and I love working with her, she has developed a very astute understanding of the brand, and brings her own personality to her work.”
Entitled “Landscapes”, Dayne says this new collection for autumn/winter 2025 takes its cues from the quote ‘If we opened people up, we’d find landscapes, we’d find beaches….memory is like sand in my hand’, from French filmmaker Agnès Varda’s film The Beaches of Agnès.
“One of my favourite pieces in the collection is the ‘Lineup Jersey’ which is inspired by a traditional rugby jersey. This piece is constructed with contrast sleeve stripes and a natural greige [undyed raw organic cotton] collar, it’s from the men’s collection but equally looks great on a woman.”
Other pieces that Dayne feels are a representation of his perspective as a designer, are the ‘Tux Jacket’ and ‘Tux Pant’.
“These are an exciting new development for Kowtow,” says Dayne. “I worked closely with the team to produce one of our first fully tailored jackets, which is constructed in a 100% brushed cotton drill, even the shoulder pads are 100% cotton.
“I love the scale and proportion of these pieces. The jacket is bold and oversized and the pants have cool contrast greige stripes down the outer leg, inspired by a traditional men’s tuxedo suit. The starting reference for the jacket was taken from a menswear jacket I found locally when I was vintage shopping with my friend and stylist Chloe Hill, this will always remain such a special memory.
“A fabric I am really drawn to in this collection is the sky blue poplin. We have offered this in a women’s cropped long-sleeve shirt and men’s short-sleeve shirt. I love the traditional code of this colour and especially love it mixed with the bright red drill pieces and the earth denim.”
Dayne Johnston on...
Personal musings and reflections of the past two years - and the future.
My relationship with fashion now...
The biggest thing for me was changing brands, and moving cities all at the same time. It was a lot and at the beginning felt like a big leap of faith. The reset that it has bought has changed my life.
I feel so proud of stepping out of my comfort zone and embracing a new aesthetic, meeting new people and collaborating with an entirely different team was daunting at first but they now feel like family. That has kept my engagement in fashion going.
After stepping out I have a new awareness of other brands and ideas, it has completely opened me up and changed me. I love fashion and always will, the noise of it and stimulation is invigorating, and the excitement of launching my new collection feels very real.
Fashion is everything I know and I’ll never not love it.
How relocating to Pōneke from Tāmaki Makaurau was a reminder of my formative years
I moved from Tāmaki Makaurau to Pōneke at the end of June 2023, and started my role as head designer at Kowtow at the beginning of July 2023. There was a comforting sense that Wellington felt familiar, but also fresh and inspiring. The biggest thing was feeling anonymous, I could walk down the street and I didn’t know anyone and for me that felt liberating! It still sort of feels like this which is nice.
I studied Fashion Design in the mid 90s at Wellington Polytechnic (now Massey University). One of my tutors, Megan Tuffery, is the creative pattern maker and fit specialist at Kowtow. Marie Kelly, the senior pattern maker and studio manager, worked for Nom*D many years ago. Georgie Veitch, the product designer whom I collaborate with, did an internship with me at Zambesi back in 2015.
There were elements that felt familiar to me which really helped the transition from Auckland to Wellington. I also have some very close friends who live here, and it’s been amazing to reconnect.
How Pōneke has influenced my design journey
I liken Wellington to Antwerp, Belgium, which is one of my favourite cities in the world.
It has a strong sense of freedom and individuality. I get inspired each day, especially around Cuba Street where I live, observing so much of my new environment. One vivid memory I have is when I first moved here, lifting boxes into my apartment, a complete stranger came up to me and asked me if they could hold the door open and help. The kindness of this gesture always resonates with me.
I walk my dog around the waterfront and feel like I could be living in Europe. There is a sense of isolation from the rest of the industry being based in Pōneke, you can focus on your work without being distracted. There is a release and a freeness of who I am, I think this city suits me.
One of the key prints in the first drop of this collection is called ‘Cityscape’ and it was born from a photograph I took on my phone when I first moved to Pōneke, of the lights and harbour and reflections at night. It feels really special to me and captures the energy of this beautiful place.
What it’s like working with a new team
The beautiful story at Kowtow is about the way the company collaborates, everyone who I work alongside contributes towards the collections, it’s not just about me as the designer. It is about a wonderful team of individuals who are working towards the same goal.
From the production team, to the sales teams, the digital teams, to the marketing team, and the art department, everyone contributes in some way or form to the end result and I feel honoured by the collaboration and feel fully supported by the team. In turn, this gives me the freedom to be creative.
There has been a lot of trust given by Gosia Piatek, the founder of Kowtow.
I met her for the first time in January 2024 and I felt like I had known her for years, we just clicked. Gosia is back in the country at present from London, she is here when we launch the collection which feels extremely special. She is creatively directing the new collection we are working on for the second half of 2026 (we work 18 months in advance to produce each collection). Her energy, wisdom and knowledge for the brand, the direction she gives, drives the creativity and encourages the teams to do good work.
Emma Wallace, the managing director, is a very caring person, the combination of her strong leadership style and passion for the brand leads every staff member in a positive and directional way. Each person who works at Kowtow wants to make a difference to the world and I find that very motivating.
I have been collaborating closely with Xanthe Harrison who is the art director. I love working with her on the e-com and campaign shoots, her artful eye and discerning taste is super inspiring to work alongside.
What has inspired me over summer?
Between Christmas and New Year I had a break of two weeks in which I spent the entire time in Wellington. My usual routine for that time of the year is getting on a plane and going to Paris. I identified I needed a rest and the thought of taking a long-haul flight for such a short time didn’t feel right this year.
I attended a preview of the film Widow Clicquot on New Year’s Eve, which was directed by Thomas Napper, Gosia’s partner. It was a very intimate screening and Thomas spoke before the movie which was extremely special.
I spent time at the Dowse Gallery in Lower Hutt, viewing the exhibition of Derek Jarman, which has inspired me for the new collection we are currently working on. I am reading a biography on Derek Jarman by Tony Peake. I picked up a second-hand copy of this when I was in Auckland for my best friend Karen Inderbitzen-Waller’s birthday in early January, a wonderful chance to catch up with Auckland pals.
I recently had the opportunity to collaborate with local artist and photographer Harry Culy who shot the men’s campaign for this new collection. We met for the first time during my break and planned a menswear shoot together with stylist Chloe Hill. It was such a fun project scouting local talent and working with Harry, I love his aesthetic.
The campaign was shot on location in Upper Hutt and entirely on film, featuring Judge Crozier who is our fit model at Kowtow and Tyree Bowen from local Wellington model agency Kirsty Bunny Management.
I’m listening to...
One album I am listening to at present is Asphodels by the Veils. My friend Finn Andrews has produced such a beautiful sound with his new record. I have spent a lot of time at home listening to it on vinyl in my apartment this week. I am also following him vicariously through Europe on his recent tour.
He is playing in Wellington on March 22 at Meow. I can’t wait to go!
If money wasn’t an option, one piece of art I would want to own
I guess I am more attracted to photography at the moment rather than painting or sculpture and what comes straight to mind is an original Wolfgang Tillmans work for my apartment wall.
I am such a fan of his photography and own many of his books. I have also been lucky enough to see major exhibitions of his work, one at the Hamburger Bahnhof in Berlin and also an exhibition at the Foundation Louis Vuitton in Paris.
The new Kowtow collection is available to shop now. Kowtowclothing.com.
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