Seeing an anti-fur protester on the catwalk is pretty retro these days. But one semi-naked young woman with “Wear your own skin” written on her bare torso and waving a piece of A3 paper reading “Animals are not clothing” made things feel quite 2015 at the Fendi show on Wednesday.
Fendi has long been a target for animal-rights activists – the house has its origins in a Roman fur business in the 1920s. This latest protest acts as the curtain-raiser for Milan Fashion Week and a bridge between London Fashion Week’s energy and Milan’s usual elegance.
It was literally a curtain-raiser too, as the runway was decorated with floor-to-ceiling draped silk in shades of cream, cherry and taupe – a tasteful set for the house’s roster of celebs, which includes model Amber Valletta and actress Jessica Biel, as well as a slew of prancing influencers in miniskirts, knee-length socks and very high heels (they haven’t given up on stilettos yet).
Things were less spiky on the catwalk (apart from said animal-rights campaigner, who was hustled away after walking about 10m), where heels were chunky and toes square. But the Italian side of fashion was on show in the thigh — and knee-high boots, sharp tailoring (the formal jacket is back), and wide-lapelled grey coats.
Kim Jones, Fendi’s womenswear honcho, is from Hammersmith and likes to bring some London wit to the glamour, feeling that the Italians and Brits have “a shared sense of humour”, as he explained backstage beforehand. A leather Chupa Chups lollipop holder dangling from your handbag or around your neck may not be everyone’s idea of a must-have, but it does add some fun to any look.
Handbags are the major hit here and Jones and Silvia Fendi, the brand’s accessories designer, have taken the Baguette (invented in 1997, beloved of Sex and the City), upsized it and made it squishier — a sub sandwich perhaps. It came in edible shades of chestnut, caramel and toffee and, christened the Simply Fendi, it’ll sell like hot cakes come the autumn, when this collection lands in store.
There was none of the obvious logo-flashing the label sometimes goes for. Instead, there were a lot of great woollies in the form of deconstructed Aran cardigans, cashmere capes and plain, lightweight round-neck sweaters in shades of blueberry, cappuccino and chocolate. Some of these, according to an insider, were “made by grandmas in Bologna” — well, they certainly can knit. In other news, say hello again to polo-neck bodysuits and opaque tights.
As for instant spring style updates, Jones offers up several. The heavy gold jewellery on London’s catwalks was much in evidence here, in the form of massive chunky chain necklaces and big bangles worn stacked on the forearm. The asymmetrical off-the-shoulder necklines on display here look modern and sleek. And, if nothing else, a pair of reflective sunglasses will make a statement that works just as well in London as Italy.
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