From blue-collar industry and the fantasy of the American West to the March on Washington, Pride movement, and the fall of the Berlin Wall, a lot has changed since Levi Strauss sold those first pairs — but has the 501?
Their origin story is, at this point, legend. Patented by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in 1873 and originally labelled “XX”, in 1890 the style got its “501″ product number, and the rest is history. One hundred and fifty years later, they’re still found in wardrobes around the world (my own included). So, why the ongoing romance with Levi’s 501s?
Straddling countless demographics and subcultures, if you had to choose one foundation of the contemporary wardrobe of the past 100 years, 501s are it. Equally part of tradition and American idealism as rebellion and counterculture, this tension is key to their mythology.
Part of their enduring popularity rests on the simplicity of the jean’s five-pocket design: straight leg, relaxed fit, button fly and sturdy twill fabric. It’s changed little, though the cut has been tweaked at times to reflect changing tastes and technology.
Originally a working garment, their transcendence from workwear to fashion came via the transgressive and political power of clothing — encapsulating how culture and class have evolved and mixed over the past century, and how trends today transmogrify the past.
“[The 501] has transcended from being a utilitarian working overall, designed to be worn over trousers as a protective layer, to a fashion item and everyday uniform adopted by fans in every corner of the cultural landscape, across multiple generations,” Karyn Hillman, Levi’s senior vice president and chief product officer, tells Viva.
Significantly and radically, denim was worn by the African American Civil Rights Movement as a form of protest, symbolism, and gender equality, popularising denim as an act of rebellion — a statement that appealed to fringe groups and young people.
Wearing jeans was adopted by greasers, Haight-Ashbury hippies, and the disaffected Beats — “After 1957 On the Road sold a trillion Levi’s,” quipped William Burroughs about Jack Kerouac’s penchant for the style — who all appropriated denim as a rejection of the status quo.
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Advertise with NZME.Dressing down became cool, and as each new generation reinterpreted it in their own way, somehow, 501s stuck around.
Hollywood and its stars harnessed the cultural capital in jeans, and continue to influence the way we dress. The careless rebellion of the T-shirt-and-501s uniform was shaped by Marlon Brando, James Dean, everyone in The Outsiders, and the cover of Bruce Springsteen’s Born in the USA.
Preppies, yuppies and jocks wore them — Tom Cruise donned Levi’s in seminal films Risky Business and Top Gun — and their ideological antithesis, grunge, loved them too; Kurt Cobain wore a patchwork pair to the 1993 MTV Video Music Awards.
With this legacy of subversion, 501s were embraced by minority communities. A favourite of skateboarders from Los Angeles to Lagos, they graced Thrasher’s October 1990 cover on Brennand Schoeffel.
The garment is also definitive to Chicano culture (Levi’s produced Spanish-language flyers as early as the 1920s). Worn baggy, often starched, the style also permeated rap and hip-hop, seen on artists like Eazy-E.
He’s among the impressive 501 alumni: Marilyn Monroe, Bob Marley and Dylan, Debbie Harry, the Sex Pistols, the Ramones, Selena Quintanilla, N.W.A, Fran Lebowitz, Cindy Crawford et al. People who still shape fashion today — gracing magazines, mood boards and social media, fueling the cultural appetite for nostalgia. And who could forget that famous Laundrette commercial from 1985?
Pairs worn by Steve Jobs, Justin Timberlake, Halle Berry and Patti Smith live in the brand archives.
“There are few products that have facilitated as many human experiences as the 501. It transcends culture, geography, gender and language,” says Levi’s historian Tracey Panek. “For 150 years people have lived in Levi’s, and that’s led to a lifetime of stories interwoven into the fabric of the 501.
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Operating as a blank canvas, 501s also offered a vehicle for customization and collaboration, from the original shrink-to-fit right of passage, to DIY creativity. The Levi’s Archive is full of unique, personalized 501s. With them, 1970s designer Melody Sabatasso’s who, explains Tracey, “would cut up eight or nine pairs of 501® jeans and stitch them back together in creative new ways.” Lauryn Hill wore a customed pair (with floral inserts) for her 1999 The Miseducation Of Lauryn Hill tour, which Levi’s sponsored.
Most importantly, this history is accessible; much of our romance with 501s stems from vintage. There are scores of second-hand pairs to be found, with the luck of the find and idiosyncratic taxonomy of older editions fostering a passionate community of fans around the world.
One famous collector is Taiwanese-born Eugene Yeh, who travels the world in search of Levi’s. “He has visited vintage stores from Bangkok and New York to Paris,” says Tracey. “Eugene has amassed an impressive Levi’s collection over his lifetime. He got his first pair of Levi’s 501 jeans around 1970 from his neighbor when he was around 9 years old.”
Closer to home, vintage purveyor Dianne Ludwig, of Welcome Back Slow Fashion, is one too. “I fell heavily for denim in the 1970s and have never lost the love. I am so obsessed with Levi’s that I’ve been piecing together some of the unpublished history of when Levi’s were made here in New Zealand.”
Search And Destroy on Ponsonby Rd is a destination for vintage denim, and it’s special to owner Alison Reid. “Denim makes my heart sing. I adore it.” Music played a foundational role in this love. “I would watch Jon Bon Jovi and Richie Sambora a million times in their ripped jeans on stage singing ‘Livin’ On A Prayer’ and Whitney Houston dancing in her 501′s on ‘I wanna dance with somebody’,” she says. "
She found ‘her pair’ in her late 20s. “It’s possible I cried in the changing room I was so happy. They fit perfectly.” That’s the moment she became obsessed. “I then became fascinated with Levi’s. The company, the history, the styles. It’s 20-something years later and I’m still wearing 501s, and it’s a great pleasure now to help other folks discover the joy, the fit, the individualism and the pure quality of Levi’s.” They’re universal. “Everyone can wear a pair of jeans no matter what gender,” Alison says. “There is no specific demographic. There is no specific age.”
Levi’s are not exclusive to any one part of society, she stresses. “Everyone wears them. Our biggest satisfaction is no matter what shape or size, we will fit you. And the sole reason for that is because they look so great.”
501s are hot property at Alison’s store. “We sell a lot of them. A lot. If we were to talk about the laws of economics — there is more demand than supply of vintage Levi’s. I’m hunting vintage Levi’s every single day. Every day. I also fly to America to fill six suitcases purely of Levi’s, get home and they are all gone in two weeks.”
In-person shopping is vital, and always try them on, as vintage 501s were shrink-to-fit, and many have been altered by previous owners. “Sometimes it might take 10 pairs and 20 minutes to fit someone correctly. Don’t look at the numbers,” she advises. “When you plan on buying 501s in a vintage store, wear the footwear you would wear with jeans. Wear a T-shirt so that you can get a good overall picture.”
She recommends always looking for the country it was made in. “The top countries are USA, Japan, England, Mexico, Pakistan, Australia and New Zealand. You can tell just by looking and feeling the denim which ones are quality. Who followed the pattern? Who, only used the best quality denim and cotton as per the Levi Strauss and Co requirements.”
Dianne values a great fade, whiskering “and that superb heavier-weight denim”. When it comes to caring for denim, “don’t wash your jeans too often, I aim for 30 wears. Turn inside out to wash, hand wash in cold water, dry in the shade. Mend holes and patch areas that are thinning immediately.”
Not everyone wants vintage of course, and new 501s have appeal for many shoppers. Available direct from the brand — which has stores in New Zealand and local e-commerce — its current range of 501 Originals spans 11 washes in a range of weights, sizes and lengths; there’s also the 90s-style plus-size 501, and big and tall versions.
For those looking for a historic fit, the faithful reproductions are special stuff. “Levi’s Vintage Clothing is a collection that pays homage to our heritage by reproducing garments from our 150-year history,” explains Levi’s design director Paul O’Neill.
“There is intensive research that goes into each collection and the garments are meticulously studied to capture all the details. We recreate everything from fit, fabric and sundries to ensure a stitch-for-stitch reproduction of the original garment.” The rigid 1947 is made with 13-ounce selvedge denim like the post-war original version, and the 1954 and boxier 1955, both in 14.2-ounce selvedge; all also come in softer washed fabrications.
Standard 501s are bread and butter for local retailers, including Smith & Caughey’s department store. “Like Smith and Caughey’s, Levi’s has been in business for a long time,” says buyer Kelly Chismon. “Like all denim styles, they ebb and flow in popularity and recently the Levi’s 501 has come back with a really strong presence in the market.” Currently popular with fashion-forward shoppers, 501s also have long-time devotees.
“We will still get a few of the customers who have always worn them replace the pair they have as they love them so much,” she says. “They are a true icon and will keep coming back as this is a fit that is so good it can’t be forgotten.”
They’re also part of the assortment for fashion boutiques like Black Box. “You can’t sell Levi’s as a brand without selling 501s,” says owner and buyer Emma Cruickshank. “They are an iconic shape and what customers originally come in to buy. We have had Levi’s on our shelves for over eight years.”
She cites famous wearers like Winona Ryder as having helped shaped the 501s significance in fashion, and ongoing popularity. “We are inspired by these outfits still to this day and the 501 fit makes these outfits timeless and still current.” And, as with vintage iterations, the audience is broad for new 501s. “There is such a broad range of customers that buy them, teenagers through to women in their 70s and all shapes and sizes.”
To get the best fit, even when buying new, shop in person. Consider the denim; while faded washes are softer, sturdier fabric is longer lasting (and feels crips and contemporary right now). And with different leg lengths on offer, you can find what’s right for your height. While cropped legs have been popular — and still are — I personally prefer a full length. If you’re on the shorter side, you can also have your jeans hemmed by a tailor.
By experimenting with sizing and fit, you can achieve a range of looks — that’s the beauty of the 501. “That straight leg, neither fitted nor baggy just works, and you can style them lots of ways, by going up or down in sizing,” says Dianne. “The slouchier oversized 90s look is back. If you want that look size up.”
There are two approaches, Alison says. “Either go tight, which is fitted around the buttocks and waist and finish the straight leg with either a contemporary 20cm cuff or a small 2cm double roll. The second delightful option is to go two to three sizes up.” (She remembers one unforgettable version of this look. “I was on a train in Tokyo one day and I saw the baggy version on a petite young lady, no cuff, being worn with a pair of red velvet stilettos. My eyeballs almost fell out of my head they were so cool. The image is locked in my brain forever.”)
Can’t decide what size? “Get both,” advises Alison. “You will never regret it.”
No one ever does. “Everyone buys them,” reveals Alison. “The one that makes me smile is American tourists from San Francisco (the home of Levi’s) gushing about how great our vintage Levi’s are, buying a pair and taking them back to exactly where I literally just got them from.”
San Francisco is where the brand will be celebrating the 501s milestone anniversary — as well as around the world. “A huge moment for Levi’s, and a major milestone that very few brands can claim,” says Chris Jackman, vice-president of Levi’s Global brand marketing. “This is an incredible opportunity to globally showcase the unrivalled breadth and influence of this global icon.”
To honour it, the brand has just launched its “Greatest Story Ever Worn” campaign and is releasing limited-edition reproduction 501s throughout the year. “Pieces include a duck canvas waist overall and a duck canvas closed front jumper from the 1870s, as well as a count back of historical Levi’s 501s made from deadstock Cone Mills White Oak denim,” reveals Paul.
There will be reproductions from 1922 (the first year with belt loops), 1901 and 1890, the first time the 501 lot number was used. “To top it all off, we have our limited edition 1873 XX Waist Overall, the blue jean that started it all.”
It’s a tribute to history, and to the future. “We want the 501 to be around for the next 150 years.”
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With 501s’ expansive and diverse heritage, there are myriad ways to honour and reference denim history when dressing today — from an homage to the classics, nod to a subculture, or a modern spin — and the style is incredibly versatile. Below are three ideas to give your jeans a new lease on life.
Sloane Ranger
This classic look, returning to favour thanks to Emma Corrin’s turn in The Crown, new Burberry, and contemporary British designers like Molly Goddard and Grace Wales Bonner who are subverting these style codes for a new generation. A pair of blue jeans in a classic cut, like the 501, works well alongside prim and tweedy pieces from Sloane canon; pair with a knit twinset and hunting jacket, or a quilted vest and oxford shirt.
Punk
Debbie Harry famously wore 501s, as did other pivotal musicians from the global punk movement, including the Ramones and the Sex Pistols. Take a leaf out of their book and play with contradictions (though there are no rules). Unexpected layering, like a corset or skirt over a T-shirt, paired with jeans is worth a try, while accessories are the perfect vehicle for studs and leather.
Luxe
The versatility of the 501 also lends itself to sleeker looks, and with the right cut and wash it can be a decidedly sophisticated foil to pieces that err on the side of elegant minimalism — the texture of twill pairs well with supple jersey knit cotton and silk satins.
Levi’s 501 1955 jeans, $340, from Prgrssstore.com (pictured) and Levis.co.nz
