OPINION
A convincing case for heritage knitwear makes a renaissance, but why? A mini-tribute to the specific merits of Fair-Isle knits, cable knit jumpers et al.
As a child, one of my favourite memories was being dressed in a Fair Isle sweater my grandmother had bought from a local knitter.
So it’s no surprise that in the past couple of seasons, we’ve witnessed a revival for those old-school jumpers and cardigans, the kind of treasures found at your local charity shop or a stall at the market run by a federation of 70+ nan’s putting their crafting skills to good use. If there’s anything our clothes have taught us over the past four years, it’s that nostalgia is a comforter, and these highly recognisable knitted tops evoke the cosiness that comes with good memories that provide an elixir to the chaos.
Because not everyone subscribes to the current state of Brat season shenanigans. While dirty denim, tiny handbags and skirts that could pass as cummerbunds might be the fashion du jour for a new generation of delinquents and dilettantes, on the flip side, there’s always room in your wardrobe for a piece of knitwear that toes the line between tradition and retaliation to white collar uniforms. An irreverent piece of traditional knitwear is one sartorial example of this quiet rebellion.
Internationally, we’ve seen updated versions of these knits make designer appearances on the runways at the likes of Loewe, with creative director Jonathan Anderson delivering cossetting Fair Isle jumpers perfect for instant hygge vibes. The distinctive Scottish knitwear hailing from the beautiful island of Shetland has also made a cameo in recent collections at Molly Goddard and Khaite.
When Sir Paul McCartney decamped to his Scottish farm after the Beatles broke up in 1970, he was seen in a parade of colourful Fair Isle jumpers as if to signal through his choice of knit that there was in fact more to life than rigorous mod suits and hippy tunics. Comfort, solace and protection is what he desired then, and in today’s state of existential crises, the escape to pastoral healing is another factor as to why traditional knitwear is on the ride. They are the wardrobe equivalent to what house plants have become to apartments - an endless search to connect with simpler times and the natural world.
Because a decent traditional knitwear should be made with natural yarns. It’s the reason why so many of us seek out good quality knitwear at our local vintage shops and charity stores.
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Advertise with NZME.Locally, we recently caught up with designer Wynn Crawshaw of Wynn Hamlyn, a brand synonymous with a certain type of chunky knitwear inspired by those nostalgic options of the past. From distorted cable knits to cardigans embellished with rosettes, the whimsy of a craft-inspired jumper like his, adds plenty of character and personality to any wardrobe this time of year.
Classic Aran Sweaters, originating from Ireland, have also made their presence felt on the shop floor.
Also known as fisherman’s jumpers, the usually off-white knits feature cable-knit plaits across the body and the sleeves. Their popularity among sailors was thanks in part to their properties - traditionally made with unscoured wool that retained its natural lanolin oils, a fisherman’s jumper is perfect for our temperamental wet-weather conditions.
The cable knit has become another knitwear symbol of comfort and tradition, its preppy roots popularised by Ivy League students off-duty during the 50s and 60s, later found recognition and popularity by the likes of Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors, American designers who have made a living out of reinterpreting classics.
A fisherman’s jumper can also mean a very classic, ribbed style knitwear with a thick crew-neck. Considered a staple knitwear for men, the universally loved jumper style can be enjoyed and worn by anyone. For a lumpy, cosy jumper that’s dense in its knit, this style will serve you well.
Close to home, several local brands including Laing Home, Karen Walker, and knitwear stalwart Standard Issue have all included their hot takes on the cable-knit jumper, the type of knitwear choice that easily works layered underneath a raincoat or a blazer with jeans for the perfect combination of texture.
While everyone has been getting on the “tying your sweater around your shoulders” bandwagon recently as a chic layer, the best way to make the most of your trad knits is to avoid the urge to do that.
Tying your knits in knots can take its toll on your poor sleeves, so while we love it when we wear our clothes with a sense of wantonness (our most recent exploration of beat-up bags for example), good knitwear deserves a little more care, if only to pass these precious wardrobe heirlooms down to the next generation to enjoy - like good, reliable wardrobe items should.
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Advertise with NZME.The Fair Isle Jumper
The distinctive patterns of the Scottish wardrobe staple offer colour and a point of interest to any outfit.
The Fisherman’s Jumper
Perfect for temperamental weather patterns and the great outdoors, this crewneck, ribbed jumper staple is a knitwear faithful.
The Cable-Knit Jumper
This preppy favourite is an easy way to look cosy and polished on, and off duty.
Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in fashion, luxury, arts and culture.
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