There’s no need to spend a fortune on fashion when all that’s required is a little sense and sensibility (and a splash of vodka on laundry day).
If there was an Olympic medal for op-shopping, New Zealand would make a clean sweep for gold.
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At a time when the cost of living is under scrutiny, it pays to think about how to ensure your wardrobe lasts the distance, and if you’re someone with a love of fashion, the temptation to buy something new is all around. While each week we deliver an endless array of ideas for shopping, the overarching memo remains the same. In the words of the late, great Vivienne Westwood: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” The designer’s passionate manifesto is an attitude to live by — refuse the pressure to have more and buy only what you truly love. Not everyone can afford to buy the best, but the point is to buy less and commit to wearing it many times, especially if it’s from a chain store. If you’re fortunate enough to be able to afford it, focus on quality pieces that will last.
To help offer up some sage advice on how to be frugal with fashion without sacrificing the all-important message of personal self-expression, I enlist the support of three people whose personal style I admire for their ability to maintain a sense of integrity with their fashion choices while adhering to the all-important values of sustainability — and, of course, an unapologetic love of fashion.
The talented costume designer, stylist and owner of hemp-based clothing label Buddy and vintage store Waves Vintage is drawn to natural fabrics and the transformative power of a fun pair of socks and tights.
My personal style is currently ... somewhere between tween boy and an extra in the movie Honey. My job is often pretty physical, and my back always hurts, so I’ve adjusted the aesthetic to work with that. I’m always in some combination of baggy pants or shorts, a tee or singlet and sneakers. There’s always a little vintage flavour in there though — I love 80s and 90s athletic wear.
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Advertise with NZME.My style is always evolving ... I get rabbit-hole-obsessed with things, and I also love being surprised when I’m really drawn to something I previously hated. It’s fun to just follow your inclinations and trust your taste. When Waves was in action, I had regular chances to completely follow my nose. I went through many years of never wearing black (now the colour is a mainstay). I also had a really solid 70s era, including my haircut. She’ll be back.
My advice when it comes to selecting pre-loved items that will last is ... to always go for good fabrics — natural is best! Also, buy things you’re really drawn to, not just wardrobe fillers. Getting the most wear out of clothing is the most cost-effective and sustainable route — be obsessed with what you’re purchasing.
My favourite vintage and pre-loved destinations ... Search & Destroy forever and ever! And Hunters & Collectors in Pōneke for the fancy bits. My Waves storeroom is still a bit of a rotating door too — due for a clear-out!
One way I update a look ... Fun socks and tights go a long way. And good hair and makeup can change an entire look.
The least expensive item of clothing I have that I love or wear regularly ... Most of my favourite pieces are from op-shops. There’s something so satisfying about finding a gem, or even a basic, for a couple of dollars. These are often the pieces I wear the most.
One item I buy regularly to update my wardrobe ... I sneak a fresh Buddy Tee from my stock when I need a boost. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a fresh T-shirt.
When I need to make an alteration I go to ... Leemake Tailoring in St Lukes or June Clothing Alterations in Newmarket. Love what Reparation Studio is doing also.
My quick pro-tip for laundry day ... Overwashing garments can really speed up the ageing process. You might not need to wash things as much as you think. An air-out and a little sun can work wonders. A spray bottle of vodka (particularly on a garment’s underarms) is a great hack.
Merino and hemp are amazing fabrics to wear because they are antimicrobial, and don’t get smelly as fast. And always, always separate your whites to wash. Nothing more tired-looking than a white tee with an imperceptible grey tinge.
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The full-time doctor makes time to pursue his creative passion for design and vintage fashion through his thoughtful vintage curation Rubbish Bin.
My personal style is ... I’m not sure if I can describe my style succinctly, it’s pretty fluid, but it always errs on the side of casual modern menswear; collared shirts, big bottoms and leather shoes. Pretty boring stuff.
My advice when it comes to selecting pre-loved items that will last is ... Since everything’s becoming so expensive it is easy to see why one would gravitate towards finding deals and buying cheaper. However, given how expensive it is to just exist right now, people should be more conscious of investing in quality and timeless items. Although the upfront costs are higher, the fact is these items will hold their value, last longer and exist beyond trend cycles. It ends up being a far more economical way to shop (while also being eco-friendly!).
I seldom shop around ... The benefits of owning a store where people come to me to sell means that I get first dibs on whatever comes through, and I often do end up keeping things.
One way I update a look ... is by adding personality through accessories. It’s always an easy and accessible way to make outfits more quintessentially “you”.
The least expensive item of clothing I have that I love or wear regularly ... is this bootleg Marquee Moon T-shirt by the band Television. I think it’s printed on a cheap Gildan blank T-shirt and I bought it for $5 about seven years ago. I still wear it weekly.
One item I buy regularly to update my wardrobe ... I have a rotation of shirting in my wardrobe. I tend to gravitate towards refreshing new and seasonal variations of shirts and then wearing the older ones for work.
When I need to make an alteration I go to ... friends with sewing machines lol.
My quick pro-tip for laundry day ... Cold wash, minimal detergent and air dry. Always. Wash as little as possible too.
The stylist, casting director and model agent at Self Agency is a fashion purist who understands the value of dressing irreverently.
My personal style is ... Honestly, most things I own are second-hand. I guess my style has followed obsessions with certain designers or different eras. A friend wrote me this description: “Dancing the line between twee, rave, Lululemon, hypebeast and couture.”
My advice when it comes to selecting pre-loved items that will last is ... to pick what you love, look after it, repair it, make sure you take your shoes to the cobbler, etc.
My favourite vintage and pre-loved destinations ... I am primarily interested in designers and their history, so I will spend hours searching for a specific era or item that I can afford. I primarily shop internationally, the way I get the garments I want is by understanding the history of brands in individual countries. For example, Japanese markets have a lot of Vivienne Westwood, and European markets have a lot of cool Valentino. You almost need to consider what the people in these countries buy, so it can be fun and investigative.
However, the best in Auckland is Tango, in Wellington is Hunters & Collectors and in Christchurch is NG. I respect stores that have a curated selection and introduce you to new designers.
One way I update a look ... I think accessories are the crux. If you buy basic pieces, you can often update them to whatever image you are drawn to in that moment with accessories. For example, I have been looking at a lot of 2009-2014 party photos. One signature accessory of this era was thick enamel cuffs. These are easy to pick up from charity shops at the moment as they are not popular. And you can often find quite interesting variations.
The least expensive item of clothing I have that I wear regularly ... I found some incredible Clarks shoes in London (I didn’t even realise they made them so cool!) for £8. Sadly, they are disintegrating and unfixable, but they were amazing.
What I buy to update my wardrobe ... Shoes. The silhouette of these can do something so different to the way you wear things and as Rick Owens said once, “hair and shoes say it all. Everything in between is forgivable as long as you keep it simple. Trying to talk with your clothes is passive-aggressive.” So, shoes update my wardrobe for me.
When I need to make an alteration I go to ... Wendy and Tom’s tailoring in Newmarket. Expert Shoe Repairs on Karangahape Rd. Or, for a winter jacket refresh, getting a dry clean from Regal Drycleaners is the answer.
My quick pro-tip for laundry day ... Vodka for odour, acetone for scuffs on shoes. Also good for getting ugly vinyl logos off. Hand washing for the really special pieces. I thought I was doing well using the 15-minute wash cycle on cold, but I have ruined many silks this way. I really like the Soak product from Wixii that you don’t need to rinse. There’s also a fancy wash product from World that smells amazing that I like to buy.
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