OPINION
In summer, it’s much harder to create outfits when you’re working with less clothing, writes Lana Andelane.
As the sun shakes off its winter coat, many of you will be eagerly embracing a return to your summer uniform of sundresses and sandals.
However, the annual shedding of winter layers can lead to trepidation. Whether it’s due to cultural norms or insecurities, the concept of showing skin can often come armed with emotional baggage - not everyone feels at ease wearing revealing clothing.
Others (myself included) may struggle with the deviation from their personal style. For people who are typically averse to the bright colours, florals and flowy fabrics synonymous with summer fashion, the season can be at best a sartorial minefield, and at worst an identity crisis.
Like many women, I too battle insecurities about how I look in certain clothing. No matter how hard I try, I’ve always had a bone of contention with my legs and how they appear in shorts, skin-hugging silhouettes or skirts. I prefer living in leather jackets, jeans, and Dr Martens; trusted wardrobe staples that aren’t exactly comfortable in 30C temperatures.
It’s not like I haven’t tried; several sundresses hang forlornly in my wardrobe year after year, relegated to the very back of the rod. I’d rather walk barefoot on scorching pavement than wear any type of toe-baring sandal or flip-flop (that said, with feet that would quite literally make your toes curl, I’m probably doing the world a favour).
With that being said, I asked three experts for advice on how to curate a warm-weather wardrobe when you kind of hate summer fashion: stylists Estelle Schuler and Courtney Joe, and Jess Scott, the director of Wellington-based vintage and consignment store Bizarre Bazaar.
How to stay covered but still cool
Opt for looser silhouettes in lightweight, breathable fabrics: think linen trousers, cotton button-downs, and silk skirts.
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Advertise with NZME.“Hemp is fabulous in summer,” says Estelle. “It’s anti-microbial, anti-bacterial, and offers moisture-wicking properties.
“Stick to relaxed, loose-fitting shapes; wide-leg pants, flowy dresses, and oversized shirts keep you (and look!) effortlessly cool.”
Courtney agrees, adding that natural fibres will allow for ample airflow and sun protection.
“At the moment, I’m loving a sheer silk outer piece layered over an otherwise more traditional ‘summer’ garment – think mini shorts under sheer silk trousers or a sheer blouse over a crop or tank top,” she adds.
Meanwhile, Jess suggests opting for sleeves: you can keep your arms and shoulders covered with a cropped bolero, shrug or even a pair of detachable sleeves without committing to a (literal) sweatshirt.
Alternatively, if you enjoy a hint of edginess or an unconventional twist, you could bust out the kitchen scissors and create your own DIY layering piece using a pair of stockings. Otherwise, use your imagination by adding sheer, breathable layers or playing around with pieces like bloomers and knee-high socks.
“You could cut up a pair of tights to make a stocking ‘top’ to layer under something sleeveless if you’re feeling thrifty,” she advises.
“Bloomers peeking out from the bottom of a skirt or dress can add a few inches to shorter hemlines, and lace tights, knee-high socks or fishnets allow you to cover your legs without getting too hot.”
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Advertise with NZME.What you can wear (aside from shorts and floral sundresses)
Although we typically wear less in the summer, you can still be creative.
Find ways to create intriguing silhouettes with fun shapes and statement pieces (think dramatic puff sleeves or a slinky sundress with platform boots). You can also opt for eye-catching incarnations of summer basics: for example, corsets instead of crop tops, upcycled scrap-denim instead of a chain-store mini skirt, or a chunky, OTT trainer over a plimsole or espadrille.
“I often wear corset-esque tops with frilly, voluminous skirts; I’m really into reconstructed ‘remade’ skirts upcycled from vintage net curtains and doilies, or scrap denim harvested from unloved jeans. I love lace, mesh, silk and cotton for summer,” Jess says.
“I’m into puff sleeves, dramatically snatched waists and big skirts (she’s having a Victorian waif summer), or 90s-inspired silhouettes; tiny little dresses or super slinky, long skirts and dresses with huge platform boots.”
If you need a simple outfit that is comfortable and practical for 30C heat, Estelle suggests dialling up the accessories: hats, in particular, are not only stylish but sun-smart. Think wide brims, vintage caps or truckers, or a classic straw number. Sunglasses are another summer staple that offer functionality as well as fashion points.
“For sunglasses, cat-eyes, oversized aviators, and round frames are classics, while sleeker shapes add modern flair. A small leather bag or a woven tote to keep things light and stylish.”
How to translate leather, denim and boots in hot weather
Winter staples can be worn in summer with a few smart replacements.
For those of us who find it difficult to transition our day-to-day aesthetic into summer-appropriate ensembles, Courtney recommends either reworking key elements of your favourite outfits, or substituting them for warm-weather counterparts. For example, swapping heavy jeans for a denim maxi skirt, or putting aside your Dr Martens in favour of clogs or cowboy boots.
“Take note of the key elements of your most favourite ensembles – what makes them part of your personal style? Whether it’s a certain silhouette or print, you can get creative with how to substitute these elements," she says.
“If you’re a turtleneck lover in the winter, swap the roll-neck for a silk neckerchief.”
Jess agrees. “Be it particular colours, silhouettes or key pieces that define your aesthetic, ensure these elements are translated into your summer wardrobe.
“In the colder months, I live in Jean Paul Gaultier or Jimmy D long-sleeved patterned mesh tops, so for summer, I found that Paloma Wool does a range of cropped mesh tanks in interesting prints, which scratch a similar itch.”
All also suggest balancing heavier fabrics and items with lightweight pieces, which adds welcome contrast. Think a leather boot with longline linen shorts, or a chunky knitted vest with a silk skirt.
“Try wearing your Dr Martens with a long slip dress or a pair of shorts. It could be worth looking into a cropped leather jacket or vest, to create a more breathable silhouette for summer. I think the key to nailing this look is definitely in the contrast,” Estelle says.
To integrate fabrics like leather, suede and denim into her summer rotation, Jess recommends opting for lower-coverage styles - think shorts or halter tops (if you’re not averse to showing some skin, of course). Otherwise, try taking one heavier piece and teaming it with breathable fabrics like cotton or silk mesh.
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Summer style for people who loathe summer fashion.
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