From technical hiking gear to retro-sportswear reignited by breakdancing’s category debut at the Paris Olympics, this year’s sportswear obsessions go beyond predictable activewear at brunch.
Like most inane trends spawned online, sportswear indirectly found itself as the basis for several micro-trends emerging over the past year.
The short attention spans
No flat lay or outfit of the day was complete without the addition of a pair of ubiquitous Adidas Samba trainers — 2023′s highest-selling sneaker became the go-to off-duty shoe of choice for the likes of Jennifer Lawrence and Harry Styles. Its time of death was in April at 10 Downing St, when then British PM Rishi Sunak was seen wearing a crisp pair of Adidas Sambas with a white shirt and navy trousers for a sit-down interview. Despite its declining popularity since that interview, the shoe style and its veritable assortment of colourways are too big for even Sunak to kill, a testament to the shoe’s universal appeal, simple design and adaptability to a range of ages.
Fashion has long embraced street and sportswear codes, but this year’s culmination comes off the back of several key factors, the most obvious being next week’s arrival of the XXXIII Paris Olympics. In addition, the combination of social media’s obsession with nostalgia and the accessibility of high fashion, has seen a considerable number of fashion brands tapping into some of this year’s other major sporting moments.
There was last week’s historical Wimbledon tournament, an event that’s always encouraged a slightly retro take on summer whites in a sort of Pimm’s-on-the-Terrace kind of way. Earlier this year we had New Zealand’s premier tennis event, the ASB Classic in Auckland, followed by the Australian Open, subsequently followed by the release of Luca Gaudnigno’s stylish menage-trois between Zendaya, Josh O’Connor & Mike Faist in the tennis romance Challengers in April.
The forthcoming summer Olympics, has seen almost every other nation in the world except New Zealand step up to the tall task of collective patriotism through an unapologetic wardrobe of uniforms both compelling and attractive (specifically France’s Carine Roitfeld Styled Berlutti number ones and Ralph Lauren’s genius blazer and jeans combo).
There’s the recent UEFA EURO 2024 which played its final match between Spain and England on Monday, a sport ‘fashionable’ by proxy due to its embrace of everything in the cultural zeitgeist from producing the most stylish men in the world including David Beckham and Christiano Ronaldo to uniform kits designed by emerging cult designers, like fashion designer Wales Bonner for Jamaica’s national men’s and women’s football teams respectively.
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Advertise with NZME.In February at the start of the Super Bowl LVIII NFL players served looks befitting of a New York runway show as they made their way to their changing rooms in a display of peacocking befitting a runway show as players bridged that sweet spot where sports meets fashion meets the viral potency of the internet.
The world of race-car drivers and motocross enthusiasts has even made an impact in fashion and music, especially with some of the world’s biggest female pop acts. Everyone from Brat Girl summer instigator Charlie XCX to Rosalia and Dua Lipa are all proponents of a certain “biker core” style consisting mostly of leather moto-jackets and trousers, biker boots, studded handbags and oversized sunglasses that tap into the Gen-Z markets obsession with an apocalyptic take on Y2K fashion. Earlier this year, Nicola Peltz-Beckham wore a vintage Dolce & Gabanna motorcycle jacket once owned by her mother-in-law Victoria Beckham, a tribute to an original 2000s style icon.
It’s a world that’s also ushered in a new generation of sporty heartthrobs including Formula 1 stars Max Verstappen and Charles Le Clerc, the latter lending his style credentials to brand endorsements for the likes of Puma, Ray-Ban and Swiss watchmakers Richard Mille. The next round of The 2024 Formula 1 season kicks off next week in Budapest before heading to Belgium and Zandvoort next month. It concludes at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix on December 8, a remarkable reminder of how the omnipresence of specific sports events throughout the global events calendar can have an unintentional influence on the cultural zeitgeist.
Rugby of course has had its own identity politics to reconcile with, and the celebration this year of Canterbury New Zealand’s 120th anniversary was a reminder of how a game so pivotal to the national psyche has also played a tremendous part in how we dress. “Stubby” shorts and rugby jerseys are just some of the memorable wardrobe items many New Zealanders have grown up with, and on the back of a renaissance of preppy staples in fashion (lately, skater shorts worn with socks and loafers are a staple for the cool kids in Downtown New York) old-school cotton drill rugby jerseys have made a return to fashion worn with everything but rugby shorts — jeans, dress pants and even pencil skirts.
Miu Miu, the sister brand to Miuccia Prada’s mainline at Prada, reported a whopping 89% sales growth in the first quarter of 2024, a steadfast example of how a luxury brand has managed to pierce the cultural zeitgeist and tap into the kind of luxury Gen-Z are responding to; a collaboration with American sportswear behemoth New Balance on a line of suede retro sneakers with contrasting shoelaces, tennis-whites redux albeit in a Paris Hilton 2000s micro-miniskirt way, leather board shorts, and preppy logo polo shirts.
Elsewhere, fashion purists have been fawning over a sneaker on the flipside of Miu Miu and Adidas’ parade of slimline retro kicks. French brand Salomon offers the kind of chunky-soled, technical sneakers made for adventuring in, but it’s their thoughtful collabs with the likes of iconic Japanese brand Comme des Garçons and cult New York brand Sandy Liang. The brand’s latest release with MM6 Maison Margiela is another example of how high fashion is tapping into the general desire right now for all things outdoorsy and wellness-related.
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Advertise with NZME.McKinsey & Company has reported on a rising global focus on preventative healthcare and personal well-being, stating that consumers intend to keep spending more on products that improve their health, fitness, nutrition, appearance, sleep, and mindfulness. It makes sense then for fashion to follow in the same direction.
“We think two things are really driving the industry now, firstly, running has had a major renaissance since COVID as so many people picked up running as a hobby they could invest in during the uncertain times” says Johnathan Lopes Da Silva, co-CEO of Compendium Group, the omnichannel distribution company that represents brands at the heart of outdoor adventure, sports, and lifestyle including Cotopaxi, Hydro Flask, All Birds, OOFOS footwear and Rumpl sleeping bags.
“Post-COVID, this trend has boomed as people have fallen in love with the culture around running and want to identify with running not just in their ‘active’ time, but also in their day-to-day lives. The London Marathon had a 40% increase in applicants for 2025, that has to tell you something. This brings the athletic aesthetic and the active mindset into the broader design language of the major brands and means that sportswear in general is no longer limited to the running track or the gym. The second piece is that the consumer is craving newness. It is no longer ok for retailers to stock just the best sellers and no longer ok for brands to deliver colour updates on old designs. To stay relevant, you have to stay interesting and engaging. This allows new brands to cut-through and challenges the major brands to innovate. This is good for the industry and good for consumers.”
While activewear has had a presence in general fashion categories over the years, this time around the impact is much more sophisticated than wearing a pair of yoga tights for brunch. Now there is full permission to take full advantage of wearing trainers with a business suit for a meeting or a full-length puffer jacket fashioned as an opera coat over a cocktail dress for an irreverent take on after-five dressing. The moral of the story really is to wear some of the years’ biggest sportswear trends your way.
Several of these subcategories have been around for some time, but 2024 saw these niche genres updated across all aspects of the industry — from emerging brands to luxury — all wanting piece of the sportswear pie, and colliding into one potent mix of fashion, technology and practicality.
In a time when the world is prioritising its mental and physical health while persevering through the daily stressors of modern life, sporty fashion offers the kind of pragmatic utilitarian comfort required to make life work.
Translation, please
Here’s a helpful breakdown of some of this year’s key sportswear adjacent trends still resonating online — and ultimately what we’re seeing on the shop floor.
Gorpcore
Technical outdoor gear meets the street.
2017 was the year Gorpcore came into the fashion lexicon courtesy of an article from The Cut. In fact that year we covered the trend’s arrival on the scene in an article that described Gorpcore as the coming together of camping gear and outerwear “think North Face waterproofs, Teva sandals, Stone Island waterproofs, Patagonia fleeces and CP Company T-shirts. Forget Barbour jackets.” GORP is an acronym for ‘good old raisins and peanuts’, the go-to snack for hiking and trail enthusiasts. It’s a sportswear subtrend that resonates particularly well here in Aotearoa with access to some of the world’s most beautiful trails. The basis of a decent Gorpcore look really stems from a technical piece of outerwear, whether it’s a puffer jacket or an anorak.
Where to shop for Gorpcore
From technical jackets to hiking boots, of course you can always revert to your trusted outdoor specialists, but these stores offer options you can wear anytime, any place.
Pyra
The technical apparel brand is founded by New Zealand-born designer Sam Moore, and now based on the Gold Coast, Australia. Featuring a mix of streetwear designs with a technical focus on fabrics and trims, the ex-pro freestyle skier, brings his lived experiences into his designs with some of his best-selling items including water-resistant cargo trousers and puffer jackets. Pyraelements.com
Checks Downtown
The local streetwear brand is synonymous with mixing technical sportswear with everyday skate-inspired fashion. Its recent debut for a dedicated womenswear capsule line includes a convertible skirt that features a nylon construction with a zip-off length. The technical skirt is one example fo the brand’s love of practical pieces for both urban and natural environments. Checksdowntown.com
Coffee Outdoors
On a recent trip to Wellington, we met the couple behind this Pōneke retail destination fostering both a community through its monthly activities will selling some of the world’s leading technical appeal for outdoor pursuits. “The brands we use and love were not yet available in New Zealand and a place that shared our buying values didn’t exist,” explains co-founder Siobhan Oldale, who along with partner and Tom Cappleman have curated a discerning mix of beloved outdoor brands including Nalgene, Montbell and Parapack. “Most of our customers are female and of all ages,” says Oldale. “We think that’s because there is no mansplaining at Coffee Outdoors.” Coffeeoutdoors.co.nz
Biker core
The racing world is having a big year.
A salute to Y2K’s obsession with motorcycle jackets and leather trousers, this specific sportswear trend is characterised by racing motifs and biker boots popularised by everyone from popstars of the moment Charli XCX and Dua Lipa. Brands such as Balenciaga and Diesel have ushered in an irreverent homage to the sport with its collection of distressed leather motorcycle jackets and studded handbags.
Where to shop for biker core
Life in the fast lane. Leather, denim and a whole lot of attitude define the offerings of these racing-inspired brands.
Prix Workshop
Featuring a range of menswear and womenswear inspired by racing sports, one of our favourite pieces from its latest range is a functional motorbike jacket with removable sleeves and hi-vis stripes for riding safety, perfect for if you are actually racing on a motorcycle or simply racing to catch the bus in the depths of winter. Prixworkshop.com
Paris Georgia
In among pretty slip dresses and corset tops, the popular brand also has one of the season’s best examples of a motorcycle jacket, along with a selection of tactile, oversized Y2K-inspired trousers. Parisgeorgia.com
Entire Studios
Another international brand founded by New Zealanders, Entire Studios is known for its premium puffer jackets, the kind of cocooning jackets that envelop the body like makeshift opera coats. Among its vast collection, you’ll also find some signature oversized denim and separates that nod to the world of racing with a distinctive 2000s point of view. Entirestudios.com
Tennis core
For something that’s slightly less casual than the aforementioned trends, this year saw preppy staples reimagined for a new generation.
Thanks to everything from Wimbledon to this year’s horny menage a trois The Challengers, directed by Luca Gadnigno, the renaissance of tennis whites is making a statement with irreverent interpretations so far from the likes of Miu Miu to the range of reissued tennis shoes including the Adidas Samba OG sneakers to tennis hero Roger Federer’s collaboration with Swiss shoemaker On. Tennis whites are nothing new but as a segue from last year’s obsessions with “quiet luxury”, this elite sport is one of several this year having a moment — including the return next month of another moneyed sport — the Louis Vuitton 37th America’s Cup in Barcelona. Cue sailing anoraks and boat shoes.
Where to shop for tennis core
Crisp tennis whites and cable knit jumpers provide the perfect outfit formula any time of the year.
Sylvester
Kate Sylvester’s beloved sister brand has a range of quality knitwear and denim for the trans-seasonal season ahead, and if playing tennis isn’t your forte at least tap into the trend’s smart outfit formula of complementary creams and whites rendered on vests, skirts and day dresses for an ideal nod to a tennis-inspired look off-duty. Katesylvester.co.nz
The designer is synonymous with well-made preppy wardrobe stapes — think elegant pleated wool trousers and softly knitted jumpers to cosy in. In her latest arrivals, we’re earmarking a plush white T-shirt and a cream-coloured crew-neck sweater as the perfect example of tennis whites for every day. Oliviacashmore.com
Caitlin Crisp
Another designer with a preppy undertone is Caitlin Crisp, whose latest designs include a Breton-striped cardigan with gold buttons, an ideal match for a pleated skirt and tights with loafers or even a pair of faded denim jeans — accessorised of course with a pair of smart tennis shoes. Caitlincrisp.com
Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in fashion, luxury, arts and culture. He is also an award-winning stylist with more than 17 years of experience, and is a co-author and co-curator of The New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now.
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