The local jewellery collective is an original fashion influencer.
Our geographical distance from the rest of the world has spawned a unique sense of self-expression.
There’s Eden Hore, the high-country sheep and cattle farmer from Naseby, Central Otago, who gradually built a collection of 276 haute-couture pieces during the
There are the Steampunk fanatics who descend upon Ōamaru every year to escape into another alternate reality.
When it comes to personal adornment, jewellery also plays a significant role in how New Zealanders express their individuality - most notable during that period of focusing all our attention on the upper torso via a computer screen, and when former Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern delivered her daily Covid updates in a wardrobe of uniquely made New Zealand earrings - including a pair of long, faux feathers crafted from recycled bicycle inner tubes by Ronja Schipper.
Central to all this is the world’s oldest surviving contemporary jewellery gallery in the world, Fingers, which turns 50 in November, home to a collective of New Zealand’s best contemporary jewellers.
What Fingers has done for our local jewellery fraternity is to champion the unique and artsy (read: funky) trinkets and adornments that enhance our personal style; because historically our access to international fashion has always been limited. We’re a nation of resourceful dressers attuned to our environment, and it’s this idea that has manifested itself into our choice of jewellery - whether it is the glint of a pāua shell brooch or a pair of pendulous pounamu earrings.
From the greats such as Alan Preston and his central development of what is now referred to as the “Bone Stone Shell” era of the 1970s through to the recently announced McCahon House Parehuia artist in-residence Rowan Panther’s intricate spiderweb wonders of muka lace necklaces, our proximity to the rest of the Pacific and our own splendid isolation has - as with all creative fields in New Zealand - given life to a range of contemporary jewellers who have helped shape our personal style.
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Advertise with NZME.This November, Fingers will officially mark its 50th anniversary, and to help anchor the milestone, its annual group show will open on Saturday, October 5, under the theme of “Golden”, where artists involved were invited to interpret the theme in whatever way they choose - literally or figuratively.
To honour the milestone, Viva asked friends, fans and followers of Fingers to share their favourite pieces from the iconic jewellery gallery.
Deborah Crowe
Artist Deborah Crowe’s favourite piece is this ring by José Bribiesca.
“I can’t quite remember when I bought this José Bribiesca one-off Bougainvillea ring at Fingers. At least 25 years ago? Possibly 30. I already had one of José's rings, but this one charmed me for a number of reasons. Firstly, when I tried it on it fell brilliantly into the proportions of my hand.
“Secondly, it created memories of when I first relocated to Aotearoa from Scotland. I was totally captivated by the bright pink bougainvillea vines growing on every corner in suburbia in the ‘80s. Thirdly, I am interested in architecture and sculpture and this ring reminds me of those disciplines. Fourthly, it’s a great knuckleduster! And, the bonus is ... it makes typing difficult! Every time I wear it, people compliment the design of this ring, and that makes me smile.”
Dr Bronwyn Lloyd
A multi-coloured copper necklace that snakes and coils.
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Advertise with NZME.Maker, curator and writer Dr Bronwyn Lloyd had the opportunity at a jewellery event at Objectspace to tell jeweller Nadene Carr in person how much she loves her enamelled copper neckpiece, bought from Fingers about 10 years ago. Bronwyn loves the combination of the rigidity of the copper and the flex of the leather connectors, the bright flashes of enamel and the quirkiness of the shape. She always feels confident and a bit fierce when she wears it. (Background painting, Graham Fletcher, King of the Wood, oil on canvas, 2002).
Philip Clarke
This iridescent greenstone is a treasure imbued with familial bonds.
Chairman of The Blumhardt Foundation, Philip Clarke, bought this John Edgar pendant at Fingers in 1988 to mark the birth of his and Jane’s daughter. He says it was “with the idea that Jane and I would somehow share the wearing. This was an odd idea: I’ve worn it a few times and Jane wears it daily, which I think is the right thing, to acquire and then gift. We were both at an event at Auckland Museum in the early ‘90s and John came up to me and said, “I’m trying to figure out whether I made her pendant. It’s a beauty.”
“Yes you did, I got it at Fingers”.
Whenever he ran into Jane he’d ask if he could see and handle it and once remarked, “I don’t think I could make something so fine anymore.” A lot has happened in 2021 but one of the saddest things was John’s death in April.
Claire Regnault
A painterly bangle is the perfect pick-me-up.
The historian and curator’s favourite find is a painted bangle by Joanna Campbell. Claire says “I first saw these bangles online in 2018 - they seemed quite a departure from her more textile-based work - I loved their painterly nature. I tried ones on in Wellington but none were quite ‘right’. And then I finally made it to Auckland and to Fingers. Although Jo had suggested that she thought I’d like this bangle, I dismissed it as thought I wanted one of the brighter ones, but when I slipped it on it was just right. I love how the yellow and pink and merge, and the more moody interior. When I am not wearing it, it sits on my dresser as a beautiful little painting in the round”.
Maca Bernal
Twisted, abstract and deeply personal.
The jeweller’s favourite find is this Moniek Schrijer’s scribble ring. She says “It’s heavy, bulky but hugs the finger ever so comfortably. He’s such a faithful companion. When travelling once I regrettably left it at an airport bathroom before boarding a plane.
“As soon as I landed I called and begged for someone to go look for it. They came back to me and said, ‘Ma’am we haven’t found a ring, but we found this piece of metal.’”
Kim Knight
An upcycled pair of earrings adorn the ears like works of art.
Award-winning senior writer at the New Zealand Herald, Viva contributor and avid jewellery collector Kim Knight shares a special pair of earrings gifted to her by her husband James. “The day I told my mother the girls in my Greymouth High School hostel dorm would pierce my ears for free with a popsicle as an anesthetic was the day she finally took me to a professional. At the jewellers, I chose birthstone studs (amethyst) and couldn’t wait to swap them for something dangly. My style was always more magpie than intentional. About 20 years ago, on a story assignment in Wellington, I sat across from an incredibly stylish and influential woman of art who listed all of the jewellery makers she was wearing. It was a pivotal moment.”
“My body doesn’t work with much locally designed clothing, but my ears fit everything. These Mandy Flood earrings were a Christmas present from my husband. A deep trawl on her Instagram reveals she repurposed them from first-year degree materials. I was with family on the West Coast when I unwrapped them. I could tell everyone was a bit puzzled: why was I so excited about squished plastic earrings? That’s something I’ve come to love about buying one-off, artist-made pieces. If you know you know. It’s like wearing a secret code.”
Mary Daysh
A wining trifecta made with a familiar shell.
Mary has collected several pāua shell pieces from Brian Adam - rings, earrings and even sunglasses. Mary says, “I had the glasses repaired in 2000 and Brian wrote a note with returned glasses - ‘You should hang onto them till the Museum does a retrospective of ‘80s New Zealand jewellery.” Is it time?
Miles Fahey
A sense of humour underpins this charming accessory.
Miles’ mum bought this brooch for him from Fingers in 2019. Miles says “This ‘kiwi with attitude’ is special to me in a lot of ways. It is one of many brooches I have in my collection and was given to me by my mum when I took my first trip out of New Zealand with my dad. I think it is a very stylish Kiwi like its maker, Alan Preston. It also has a habit of training me not to spike my finger on its frills.”
Anna Blackman
Anna bought her Peter McKay silver ram brooch at Fingers about six years ago.
“I was browsing through the drawers for an affordable treasure. To my delight, I found the little silver ram. I love that the ram is a kind of New Zealand icon - after all wasn’t our economy built on the sheep’s back? But I also find it sad that our wool industry has declined so seriously in favour of synthetic fibres.
“The image shows a close-up on the Peter McKay brooch on an old family “Mosgiel” rug, once a upon a time there were many such woollen mills producing quality products from New Zealand wool.”
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