Expert Eye: All Our Favourite Looks From New York Fashion Week

After a few years of pared-back presentations and online events, fashion is truly back in force this season as brands return to normal programming — albeit with a recessionary backdrop that’s influencing brand assortments and reigning in visible extravagance and ostentation.

New York Fashion Week is the first cab off the rank for autumn/winter 2023, with both established designers and emerging brands presenting their vision for what people should be wearing now.

The grit and eclecticism that Big Apple designers do well are still there, as is uptown luxury, but the mood is decidedly more pragmatic, with designers focusing on simplicity and practicality. Less hype, more clothes, if you will.

The Viva team have been reflecting on self-expression for 2023, with paring back certainly appealing.

Still, creativity and self-expression remain an important part of the joy of getting dressed, and we’ve found plenty of both on the New York runways.

Proenza Schouler, Look 15

“Another amazing show from Proenza Schouler, one of my all-time favourite brands. They always hit in the right places. This dress is so cool, I don’t really have other words... The oversized cuff, slim but flowing body, and the colour(!) from what looks like velvet too, I want this in my wardrobe immediately.” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

“There are a lot of looks to look at when it comes to a Coach show, but I guess when you’re operating at that level you have to have something that appeals to many regions too. One stand out however was this sheer dress with ruffles on the bias, a silhouette reminiscent of something Roberto Cavalli or John Galliano for Dior may have designed in the 2000s — making the rounds in the collections of several other designers this season (Et Ochs, Victoria Beckham). Part Paris Hilton part Miss Hannigan from Annie, it’s a barely there slip of a dress that will no doubt be the breakout star of the year. If you see it in Glassons come September, you read it here first.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Thom Browne, Look 18

“The power-suited linebacker proportions of the show’s silhouette are striking (they’d all be befitting David Byrne) and I particularly love this look here. Worn by New Zealand model and Viva Magazine cover star Jordan Daniels, it riffs on the coding of tweedy gold-buttoned luxury, and everything’s a little too big — even the collar — a deft touch. I like the layers of differing textures and colours, and always love a tie. And, though the collection was as avant-garde and deftly dramatic as always, it was also a sincere, romantic show for the designer — now also Chairman of the CFDA — something that’s refreshing in our age of irony.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Altuzarra, Look 24

“This shade of blue is a favourite hue and there’s nothing like a billowing dress and oversized blazer combo. Cornflower blue is just one of a comprehensive palette of colour, print and pattern employed by Joseph Altuzarra who’s gone all out with tie dye, luxe silk and embellishments. The show is just straight-up fun to scroll through.” — Johanna Thornton, deputy editor

Khaite, Look 26

Our Legacy, Look 21

“This is one of the first shows in a long time where I’ve noticed the styling, and I particularly liked the lived-in vibe of this outfit. Often for a runway or a presentation, there’s a lot riding on the designer to sell the collection, and so often the styling becomes very basic and clinical - sharp at best, unmemorable at worst. Our Legacy’s Christopher Nying’s presentation felt very personal and I liked seeing how these disparate garments can be layered in an interesting, unpretentious way. Do new clothes really exist anymore? Maybe. But these old ideas and familiar wardrobe items looked their best worn skew-whiff with a sense of authenticity not always seen at an often too-slick New York Fashion Week presentation.”— Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Gabriela Hearst, Look 18

“Just a very good suit. No other notes.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor.=

Tory Burch, Look 7

“I could not look past these snazzy satin trousers. Paired with the structured blazer it is a sophisticated and bold statement from a brand that is often quite the opposite.”— Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

Sandy Liang, Look 20

“It’s always interesting when designers play with infantile tropes in their collections. For example, a baby doll dress, bow details, and teddy-bear fabrics. Some, like Sandy, know where to draw the line though, and the use of colour with this surprising mix of pink and burgundy proves she knows how to balance things when it comes to drawing on youthful references without being too literal (or creepy).” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Coach, Look 13

“I keep finding myself drawn to leather, particularly cow hides or anything dense. Perhaps it’s the apocalyptic nature of everything lately. This two-piece ensemble by Coach straddles the sturdy-sexy chasm. I like the neat jacket with the jean-style skirt. It wasn’t the only look of its kind in the brand’s show — other iterations were lower cut, also appealing — and is a smart way for the leather goods brand to use its signature material in its ready-to-wear range.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Proenzer Schouler, Look 10

“Perennial it-girl Chloe Sevigny opened the Proenza Schouler show, a longtime friend of the brand, which is helmed by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who say they’ve created this collection for the women who wear and buy their clothes today. With the show marking 20 years in business, the clothes tend towards the wearable, with chic tailored separates and elegant dresses. This dress caught my eye, its shimmering fabric skimming the body to perfection, and appearing like sunlight rippling on the surface of a lake. I love the surprise flash of silk too.” — Johanna Thornton, deputy editor

Tory Burch, Look 3

“There’s nothing new or groundbreaking or edgy about this look, and that’s precisely why I like it. Its appeal lies in the sum of its (great) parts — a well-done trench coat, grey shirt with a generous collar, denim skirt, pumps, a sturdy little bag, and the slightly kinky addition of fishnets — all of which are valid propositions on their own. And it’s got that bourgeois sensibility that I always enjoy. The whole Tory Burch collection is rather excellent, and comes in the wake of a well-received spring collection; the designer has really found a groove of creating an appealing wardrobe for modern, real-world dressing.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Anna Sui, Look 9

“Okay green is going nowhere, Bottega started it but NYFW is not done with it. This two-piece tartan look from Anna Sui reminds me of some of our local labels at home. It’s giving summer brights but make it autumn/winter. I also love the relaxed feel about it, even though there is a lot going on, Anna Sui does this well.” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

Eckhaus Latta, Look 10

“If pointless TikTok trends could define this look they’d probably call it ‘smart dystopia’. A clean-cut look with a hit of apocalypse - rows of domed buttons on a corduroy, collarless shirt could be an undergarment from Mad Max’s wardrobe, worn with jeans featuring a rusty effect. Subtle and has just enough points of interest to make an otherwise simple outfit formula look less dull.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

The Row, Look 4

“The Row’s collection falls firmly in the pared-back and minimal camp, with pieces rendered exclusively in black, brown, beige and white. Notably, every inch of The Row’s models’ bodies were covered in fabric from chin to toe, the most revealing garment an asymmetric sleeveless dress. However, there’s nothing drab or buttoned-up about these looks, which epitomise the brand’s ethos of impeccably made, timeless garments. Case in point: this oversized pinstripe suit. Tell me it isn’t sexy?” — Johanna Thornton, deputy editor

LaQuan Smith, Look 35

“A satin skirt suit is a high-risk endeavour, but Queens-based designer LaQuan Smith expertly lands this. The beauty of this is it’s not too shiny, nor is it white. The oystery grey takes the edge off. The double-breasted and nipped-waist cut, wide lapels, double-welt pockets and covered buttons are elegant, while also playing with tropes of 1980s suiting without erring on the side of costume. Paired with sheer pantyhose — my favourite — and sandals (naughty!) this is a look I love. Bonus points for the briefcase (bring those back please). There’s a real nostalgic New York luxury to this, it’s also giving Rachel Marron, Fran Fine and Hilary Banks.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Tory Burch, Look 2

“I like the way this kilt/skirt looks as if it’s barely holding on, an allegory perhaps about how most of us are trying to keep it together in a world ready to explode at any given time. I like a prim look that looks as if it’s been dragged out of bed. Adding to the anarchy is a pair of fishnet tights and leather knee-high boots.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Collina Strada, Look 21

“I love the playfulness of Collina Strada’s collection, one I always look out for. it’s a nice mix from the more sophisticated and minimalist shows. This year, incorporating animal prosthetics to create an escape from reality for showgoers. The look that drew me was an oversized plaid suit with that Collina Strada edge, featuring oversized floral cuffs. A little bit of fun in a serious world.” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

Sandy Liang, Look 32

“The collection is full of great looks, each riffing on the designer’s myriad references and touchpoints, coming together a cohesive whole — this darkly twee, urbane style that has made Liang a bit of a hit. It’s hard to choose a favourite from the show, but I do like the sad-debutante feel of this sumptuous frock, and the excellent accessories (I’m very much liking gloves and leg warmers for autumn).” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Carolina Herrera, Look 29

“It was hard to choose a favourite from this collection, the bright modern colour mixed in with classic heritage Caroline Herrera staples. But this piece took my breath away. So simple and understated, yet so sexy all at the same time. Plus, the colour is phenomenal.” — Annabel Dickson, fashion assistant

Gabriela Hearst, Look 6

“I admire Gabriela’s commitment to craft and sustainability, something she has carried through to her second job as Chloe’s creative director. With her rigorous attention to tailoring details, this layered look stood out. I like the idea of investing in a good quality vegan leather coat - even better worn with a chocolate brown suit.” — Dan Ahwa, creative and fashion director

Tibi, Look 7

“I really like the layering here, the different weights and shades of the fabric involved in each piece — there’s a dark tweed, slightly washed-out black twill, and knits — add some engaging depth and interest, while also looking like there’s little “try” involved. It also looks great in motion, good for a brisk walk to work on a chilly autumn day.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Private Policy, Look 22

“I’m vibing that early 2000s “engineered” denim look at the moment; you know the buzz, a dark wash, stiff finish, rivets and bulk without being volume. This set by NYC-based brand Private Policy is a great iteration of the idea, while also showing some clever layering of shorts over pants (at least I think that’s what’s going on here). Unisex and practical — the brand’s design ethos is genderless fashion — it’s good for sombre days when you want to feel resilient.” — Emma Gleason, commercial editor

Gabriella Hearst, Look 26

“Luxury designer Gabriela Hearst’s autumn/winter 2023 collection was very chic, very minimal and very wearable, with beautifully tailored pieces inspired by the tubular furniture designs of 20th-century Irish architect Eileen Gray, whose work came to define modernism. There was look, after look, I’d want to wear – including cashmere knits, shackets and a chocolate brown woollen coat - but my pick is this long burgundy trench, with its playful slits and pops of blue.” — Johanna Thornton, deputy editor