It’s time to celebrate the creativity, self-expression and joy that underpins everything we do at Viva with the stories that you read the most and spent the greatest time with in 2023. The following article, which originally ran in August, was one of them.
Shoppers have long felt a gap
When it comes to the task of exploring personal style, so often it’s the personal recommendations that prove useful.
However, when compiling this assortment of perspectives and recommendations, one we hope will continue to be a helpful resource as we update it regularly, we were also mindful that the topic of offering better size options in fashion shouldn’t be the sole responsibility of individuals challenged by the lack of options.
It’s one the wider industry should be engaged with too.
It’s model agencies who don’t have a full range of body shapes and representations of persons with disabilities on their boards.
It’s fashion designers who aren’t investing in grading up their size offering or offering fabrics or design details that support all bodies.
It’s the representation of all bodies that go beyond token inclusions — across all forms of media.
It’s retailers who have changing rooms that don’t cater to all body shapes.
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Advertise with NZME.It’s the micro-aggressions that don’t go corrected in everyday conversation and language.
Small progress is being made gradually, with a much better offering of brands out there catering to anywhere from a size 20 to 30 upwards, but there’s always room for improvement across every facet of the fashion industry.
It’s not always easy to produce clothes for any fashion label, manufacturing setbacks and hurdles are a common challenge for businesses; however many of these hurdles can disproportionally impact plus-size designers, creating another layer of inequality when it comes to offering clothes for everyone and everybody to enjoy.
From Lost and Led Astray fashion designer Sarah-Jane Duff, whose well-designed garments are a refreshing offering that includes women’s sizes from 12 to 26, to award-winning New Zealand-born Samoan baritone Benson Wilson (because discussions around size shouldn’t be faced squarely by womenswear designers), they share their thoughts on their go-to brands, where to find style inspiration and how the industry needs to do better.
Alexcea Apostolakis
Alexcea Apostolakis (Lexi) is a model and student studying art history and communications at the University of Auckland. She recently launched her jewellery brand Quench alongside New Zealand label Ruby’s accessories offering. Lexi has also been an integral member and friend of Karangahape Rd’s Crushes, collaborating with them across their recently successful plus-size thrift crawl and introducing plus-size labels for their vintage clothing offering.
What design details do you look for when shopping for fashion?
I look for things that can be worn in more ways than one, whether this is the physical garment itself that can be adjusted to be a top one day and then maybe a skirt the next. I really look for versatile pieces that can be taken throughout seasons, are easy to layer, and adapt to fast-paced fashion cycles. I’m not into overconsumption of clothes, I rarely buy new things.
I like to wear the same thing over and over, so for me, the more ways I can wear something the better.
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Advertise with NZME.I try to steer away from anything too trendy and go for things that I genuinely just like, and unique pieces that are one-off or you don’t see other people wearing.
In terms of plus-size clothes specifically, I look for designers and pieces that are actually catered to my body shape, not just clothes graded up to my size. This is really important for how things fit on the body and look how they should.
How much progress do you think the New Zealand fashion industry has made to become size-inclusive compared to the rest of the world? And what is yet to be done?
I think we do okay in terms of size inclusivity within these spaces, but there is always work to be done. In terms of progress, we have definitely made a lot since I was a teenager, which is rad to realise.
I’ve always loved fashion and dressing up and making things, but I spent a lot of years wearing essentially the only things available to plus-size people, which typically consisted of leggings and a baggy tee or some kind of tunic thing. There are definitely a lot more options now, especially with the rise of thrifting culture — you can find some good gems.
In terms of designers and manufacturers, there are a lot of great designers and brands both established and up-and-coming which, in my opinion, are doing great things. Looking at brands like Liam and Ruby, which have really had a major sort of rebrand in terms of size inclusion, is super-cool and I think more brands should adopt this attitude. Just because it’s something they didn’t do initially doesn’t mean it can’t be done.
Looking at more of a marketing side of things and the inclusion of plus-size models is a whole other issue. I would love to get to the point where you can walk through the shops or browse online and see a pretty equal split of representation of all body types. We are pretty far from that in New Zealand and, when you do see plus-size models, they are usually a very curated ideal of plus-size. They have a narrow waist, big hips and thighs, no stretch marks, and no cellulite.
In my own modeling experience, I can definitely say there needs to be progress on how plus-size models are treated. I’ve been on lots of shoots where garments haven’t fitted or stylists aren’t used to styling plus-size bodies, so things can get pretty awkward and uncomfortable.
But I’ve also worked with a lot of amazing brands and designers, such as LayPlan, who have been supportive and accommodating and accessible. It’s important to acknowledge that change needs to be made, but also equally important to recognise the ones doing the good stuff.
How has your emotional experience been for you as someone who enjoys fashion and finding clothing that suits your personality?
I think it’s had its ups and downs in an emotional sense. I’ve always been someone who expresses themselves through being creative and I think fashion naturally attaches itself to that. However, finding clothes that reflect my personality hasn’t always been easy and, as a result, isn’t always the centre focus of how I dress.
I think that’s something I’m still figuring out to be honest. Every day I dress quite differently and it can be kind of chaotic, but maybe that does just reflect who I am.
I am learning how to dress for myself rather than for others or for what other people expect someone like me to dress like.
Like most of us, I spent a lot of my early teenage years trying to figure out what kind of person I am and my expression through clothing played a big part in that. But it was also somewhat stifled due to the options (or lack of) that were available to me.
I remember trying to look like everyone else in an effort to disguise the fact I was plus-size as if no one would notice. It’s funny to look back on now, I think about all the ill-fitting skinny jeans and even jeggings (OMG).
Dressing for a long time was about trying to hide that I’m fat, but now it’s like, ‘Okay, whatever, this is my body, I’m gonna wear something I actually like or makes me feel like me.’ It’s crazy how recently I’ve made that distinction and change in my attitude towards fashion, but it’s been a major one for me.
Now, I feel like I’m a lot more comfortable and confident in myself than I have been previously, and it’s fun and silly and fashion should always be a little bit fun and silly. And definitely no jeggings.
Benson Wilson
Benson Wilson is an award-winning New Zealand-born Samoan baritone and the winner of the Kathleen Ferrier Award, Joan Sutherland and Richard Bonynge Bel Canto Award, and the NZ Lexus Song Quest, and was recently appointed English National Opera Harewood Artist. He is married to previous Viva cover star and soprano Isabella Moore. Read about their pitch-perfect wedding day here.
When it comes to your personal style, what is your philosophy?
My philosophy is ‘wear whatever makes you feel like a million bucks.’
Style is so subjective to the eye of the beholder, and I believe that you must wear what makes you feel good and like you are representing yourself authentically. I grew up with a paternal grandfather who carried a comb in his back pocket and would not let me leave the house without combing my hair, and with a maternal grandmother who is always dressed to the nines.
It is easy to see where my inspiration comes from. My maternal grandmother Peaario Auina Opetaia always says, “Dress to match the inside”, which means, if you feel good, if you feel beauty from within, you must show that in how you dress.
When it comes to menswear, do you think that brands are becoming more inclusive when it comes to size offerings and providing options that look good?
Yes and no. Womenswear has definitely come a long way in terms of size inclusivity. I believe that menswear still has a lot to learn from the way that womenswear is now being inclusive.
I say yes because there are a lot more sizes available for men larger than a standard ‘large’.
I was stoked to walk into Hallensteins recently and see garments stocked up to a 4XL. I say no because I find that the options that are available to men who wear larger than a ‘large’ lack any kind of style or flair, whether it be in the design of the garment or the cut of the garment.
A classic example would be that I would often find that the only options that go larger than an XL would be the more basic or plain garments and I have noticed that the more stylish garments would only stock up to a medium or, if you’re lucky, a large.
Another example is that I find that sizes up to an XL are often cut with the shape of a body in mind — you would think that that would be a given, right? However, I have tried on an XL and an XXL in the exact same men’s winter coat, and I’ve found that the XL has some sort of shape to it, and the XXL has more of a square, box kind of cut to it.
I believe that men of all sizes deserve to wear garments that complement and flatter the body, no matter the fat composition, or muscle composition. A bigger size does not equal ‘blob physique’ or ‘potato-sack cut’ clothing.
What brands do you personally love and would recommend?
When I am back in the country and can shop at Johnny Bigg, the size options and style options are second to none.
I love their bamboo formal shirts. As a classical musician who wears formal attire often, I love this option of having a formal shirt that is flattering to the male physique, available in a breathable material, and is sweat-friendly.
I also love to shop at Hallensteins. The quality of their clothes is excellent, and now that they are size inclusive, I would love to see them include more styles in their larger sizes, specifically suits and formal wear.
In terms of footwear, I love to wear Asics. I admire that they sell wide and extra wide-fit shoes, and I find them very comfortable and accommodating for my Polynesian feet.
For casual wear, I often shop at Uniqlo. Firstly, because of the workmanship of the garments, but also because of the breathability of their AIRISM range, which I’d highly recommend to anyone who is more active or sweats a lot.
Who are some of your favourite style inspirations or people whose personal style you love?
I take inspiration from my maternal grandmother Peaario Opetaia Auina (Mama Pea) and my paternal grandfather Tafeamaali’i Amerika Wilson.
From Mama Pea, if I were to give three words to describe her style they would be extravagant, elegant and opulent. From Grandpa, I would say that he exudes the essence of the vintage classic man, always dressed in a button-up shirt with pleated trousers and leather shoes. I like to take inspiration from boho-chic menswear and style by wearing a lot of linen and button-down shirts with accessories.
What are some of the challenges you face when shopping for clothes?
For me, it would mainly be ill-fitted clothing, and my answer to that would be to know your measurements, pay attention to the measurements of the garment, and get to know an excellent tailor. If in doubt, get a size bigger and take it to a tailor to get that perfect fit.
Another thing that I would say is a challenge, is finding stylish clothing. Don’t be afraid to try something new, if you’re not willing to be creative with where you are shopping, don’t expect to have a stylish and creative wardrobe.
I tend to find my favourite scarves (a compulsory piece of clothing in an opera singer’s wardrobe) in the womenswear section because apparently men only like to wear paper-thin scarves in cold weather?
Also, don’t be afraid to go op-shopping, you can find some amazing pieces in op-shops.
Is there a particular performance you can recall where you felt connected to what you were wearing on stage?
One of the strongest memories I have of feeling connected to a piece of music and what I was wearing would be when I sang ‘Pierrot’s Tanzlied’ from Erich Wolfgang Korngold’s Die Tote Stadt at the Auckland Town Hall Chamber Room with the Auckland Opera Studio.
I was dressed by Jaiss, and was wearing an excellent three-piece tux with a black-and-white patterned jacket, silk European lapels, and a European bow tie. The reason why I connected to this garment through the music is because the role in the opera Fritz is Pierrot the clown, who is a clown whose makeup was typically only black and white.
I feel like I was really able to connect to this character wearing this black-and-white tuxedo, which could have also been representative of the black-and-white mask that this character uses to mask his deep sorrows.
Imani Ram
Imani Ram is public health servant and is based in Petone with her wife. She is often featured in campaigns with inclusive brands such as Pōneke-based underwear and activewear label Nisa.
What design details do you look for when shopping for fashion?
I think unique fabrics and textures are the things I’m drawn to first. I love an oversized fit, so that’s normally my go-to. Versatility and durability are also important. It’s so difficult to find stuff in my size, so it needs to last.
How much progress do you think the New Zealand fashion industry has made to become size-inclusive compared to the rest of the world? And what is yet to be done?
Honestly, it’s hard to say. I think we have quite a few smaller brands that are doing amazing work, but as a whole, I think the fashion industry has a long way to go to make genuine change. A lot of the time it feels quite tokenistic.
Elevating fat people, particularly fat people of colour, is still something that I don’t see very much in Aotearoa’s fashion industry.
How has your emotional experience been for you as someone who enjoys fashion and finding clothing that suits your personality?
It’s been challenging, I’ve always had trouble finding clothing that suits my personality, in my size.
But I also think that my style wouldn’t be what it is now without that challenge. I think that part of it is tied to intersectionality and trying to find clothing that suited my whole personality as a queer fat person of colour.
Sarah-Jane Duff
Sarah-Jane Duff is a Tāmaki-Makaurau resident and is the founder and designer of Karangahape Rd-based label Lost and Led Astray. Sarah-Jane has over 16 years of experience designing and working in plus-size fashion.
What have you noticed in your career as a plus-size fashion designer?
Shopping and fashion for the plus-size body is very nuanced and emotionally draining. I don’t think it can ever really be understood unless you are in it. In society, you are rejected, and practically you can’t find a raincoat that will close over your bust or fit over your bum.
The ‘plus-size babe’ has an extensive handbag, sunglasses and shoe collection. We can mostly shop and fit these items when out with a friend and share in the shopping experience, so we tend to have a lot.
People seeing value in themselves in a plus-size body is hard work when the world is a constant noise telling them to change their bodies. I honestly think there is a lot of tokenism when it comes to ticking off boxes of diversity.
Words like ‘inclusive’ are being thrown around, and then extending ranges to size 16 to 18. [Brands will] make special samples for plus-size models and then you can’t actually shop the look. Is that inclusive? Don’t get me wrong, these things are still a step in the right direction, and the changes that have happened in the last 16 years are huge.
I remember making friends with Meagan Kerr simply because she was the only person my age who was talking about plus size. Now, our community has grown so much and we have more of a voice and more options, but we are a long way from being included.
How has the emotional experience been for you as someone who enjoys fashion and finding clothing that suits your personality?
My journey of finding clothing that I love took me to design school and eventually starting my own label. I started out by hand-stitching dresses together and learned how to use a machine at university. This is why it’s been so important to me to have a store, so I can give that shopping experience. I love seeing that look of relief when people realise they will fit everything in the shop.
The top of my list of things I look for is fit — things fitting on my shoulder. There is a big difference between fabric going around the body and a garment fitting the body.
I’m obsessed with details and finishings, and textures are always a must, especially as I wear only black, so I love playing with shine and matt, movement and structure.
Where To Shop
Below is a selection of recommended brands and one’s we’ve come across in real life, meeting with designers in-store and getting a better sense of their personality, their inspiration and their offering. These are brands creating clothes with thought, and design elements and fabrics that help destigmatise the stereotype that plus-size fashion is basic. From premium, quality textiles to bespoke prints, options for people who wear clothes above a size 18 haven’t always been varied and easily accessible.
Pōneke-based brand Jojo The Label focuses on intricate design and self-expression. Eccentric and delightfully bright pieces are what the brand is synonymous with, from patchwork dresses to frothy confections, including one custom wonder created for one of our spring fashion editions with revered arts photographer Yvonne Todd. Jojo The Label works on a made-to-order basis, so nobody or size is excluded.
Sloan is an entirely made-to-order label based in Tauranga. You don’t have to pay extra to get things altered.
The New Zealand label established in 1990 by Caroline Marr has an offering of plus-size-specific clothing. “We select only our favourite pieces from other designers, and create our very own designer range to embody the personality, confidence and power of TCD Women.” The Carpenter’s Daughter stocks from a size 0 to 24.
The Fielding-based label is the brainchild of designer Sera Lilly. “Friday Flamingo is about embracing yourself just as you are, flocking together and supporting each other, and above all else, enjoying every day like it’s a Friday.” Friday Flamingo designs with size inclusion from sizes 12 to 30. We particularly admire the designer’s range of outerwear, from tailored coats to playful blazers along with an assortment of great separates like blouses and skirts, which are great for professional dress codes.
Lost and Led Astray was created and designed by Sarah-Jane Duff. Based in the heart of Auckland on Karangahape Rd, designs are all made locally in Aotearoa. “We believe in the diversity that encompasses people of all different shapes and sizes, making this world go around.” Lost and Led Astray has a size inclusion of 12 to 26. What appeals the most about this brand is its strong design DNA not often found in other plus-size clothing brands. There are plenty of uber-cool dresses to peruse, always styled with a pair of stomping, space-invading boots (Sarah has a strong eye for pretty floral prints too).
Alongside offering a custom-made service, Tāmaki Makaurau-based label Maaike offers a plus-size section on its website. Its sizing states that a size small will fit easily from an 8 to 12, and runs to XL before offering custom options. With a strong focus on graphic, artful prints created in-house, we love the way this brand is unapologetically offering prints that are joyful and interesting. It creates beautifully shaped, fluid draping with its dresses too, which is perfect for skimming bodies of all shapes and silhouettes.
Ruby + Rain offers New Zealand-designed fashion consciously made in small batches, from sizes 14 to 28. “We can produce small runs to eliminate issues that come with mass production and fast fashion. We pride ourselves on designing garments that are timeless and will last years to come.” Perfect for more casual options, this brand is one we go to for busy mums who need decent, unfussy garments that support busy lives.
Made with love in Pōneke, House of Boom offers a variety of clothing in sizes 16 to 30, with particular strength in colour. “Boom is all about rejecting the idea that fat people should hide away in drab dark clothes. You’re here, and you’re awesome.” We’re also fans of the brand’s mix of accessories (the rainbow necklace is a favourite) and its chic striped dresses that work styled with sneakers or a pair of your favourite ballet flats for a nod to French style.
This multi-brand stalwart is dedicated to plus-size fashion. Offering a selection of New Zealand and Australian labels with a size range from 12 to 26, this is a one-stop shop to view new-season styles and classic brands in one place. Physical stores are also located in main centres around New Zealand.
This family-run business recently made key changes to its brand, making sizes accessible. “Typically, our size range for Ruby is 4 to 20, 4 to 24 for Liam and 4 to 28 for Liam Patterns,” states the brand on its recently relaunched website. “We also offer petite, standard and tall lengths in some of our much-loved pant styles. If you fall outside of this size range, we will custom-make our pieces to any standard size for the standard retail price of the piece.”
Based in Pōneke, Kowtow is renowned for its relaxed and genderless shapes and styles. Their devotion to sustainability is also a big focus for the brand. Kowtow’s sizing is structured from XXS to XXL, with a focus on generous cuts and sizing. What we love in particular is the quality of fabrics here; ethically sourced cotton has helped shaped the brand’s line of tactile denim, and crisp cotton shirt dresses are beautifully designed for all body shapes.
Slow-fashion label Rachel Mills is a great place for consciously created basics. Her merino bralettes and fantastically fitting underwear are standouts in the range. The underwear is sized up to 24 and the main range to a size 18. “We do encourage customers to get in touch if their size isn’t available.”
This fun and inclusive Pōneke-based label is sure to bring you joy, from frills to beautifully printed knitwear and wildly fun accessories. Size-wise, it runs on a scale from 6 to 22 and is predominantly made-to-order in small runs.
The local brand works on two bases — made-to-order and in-stock — where a small batch of sizing is produced. Its standard sizing runs to a 24, with custom size and alterations also offered.
Beautifully constructed and timeless, elevated wardrobe staples are what you will find at Ellis Label. “Each order is cut and crafted by hand by our small team of makers in Auckland, with the utmost attention to detail and care. We partner with local suppliers to source our fabrics and notions to create our garments in mostly natural fibers or limited rolls of deadstock fabrics.” Ellis Label’s standard size goes to 20, then offers custom sizing for any piece in the current collection.
Hilda Ereaut is the brand of NZ-born, NYC-based plus-size model and Viva cover star Georgia Pratt Holiber. “Offering silhouettes and fabrication that aren’t committed to season or trend, Hilda Ereaut garments are designed for diverse bodies to move and live within them, encouraging longevity for years to come.” Garments are carefully designed, cut and sewn by hand in New York City. Free sizing is broken down to 1 and 2, the latter running from NZ 16 to 24, with custom-made-to-order pieces available upon request.
Non-gendered brand Papa Clothing focuses on a fluid and relaxed fit, meaning its sizing can be worn by most. “The diversity of the Papa customer base across age, size, gender and culture reflects the inclusivity that underpins Papa designs. Inclusivity to us means amplifying the beauty of those that are often marginalised by the fashion industry.”
Drawing from her Māori heritage, Adrienne Whitewood designs with the modern New Zealand woman in mind. An offering of extended sizing to her range includes 2XL and 3XL, which translate to numeral sizes 16 to 20. “Adrienne as the creative director takes inspiration from Māori art and culture, using traditional concepts and with them creates unique prints on silhouettes.” We love the designer’s choice of fabrics, but it’s her unique print work that inspires us the most. If you’re looking for something unique and proudly made from Aotearoa, the mix of sizes with actual design is something that we love to see.
Alongside its main label, Augustine has introduced an extended size range from 14 to 22. Its fun and flamboyant looks are great for someone looking for a special dress for a night out. There’s a strong sense of colour throughout the brand’s various categories, so it’s great to see that the offering of the mainline doesn’t skimp on design and variety for its extended size range.
The Danish powerhouse brand Ganni has been celebrated for its streamlined plus-size inclusion in runway shows and campaigns. It offers extended sizing ranging from EU 42 to 52, which translates to New Zealand 14 to 24. “Ganni is not about one look or uniform identity, it’s about confidence and kick-ass energy — everyone is welcome.”
Wray is an NYC-based label designed by Wray Serna. “After extended studies at Parsons School of Design, Paris, Wray cut her teeth at Issey Miyake and Rachel Comey before venturing out on her own.” Every garment is created ethically at fair-trade operations in India, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Peru. Size offering at Wray, goes through XXS to 6XL.
You may have heard of this brand thanks to Khloe Kardashian, but what you might not be aware of is that it is also B-Corp Certified. Every piece in the collection is shown in three size ranges of models to eliminate confusion when shopping online. Sizing runs from 0 to 32. Yes, Good American is great at denim, but it also offers ready-to-wear styles and swimwear.
You might feel like you are living in a dream discovering this European brand. Founded by Patricia Luiza Blaj, Loud Bodies was driven by her need to prove that style has no size, and to make ethically produced sustainable clothing of all sizes available to people everywhere. “One day I walked into the mall and realised that there were clothes that fit, however, they were plain, baggy and in colours I hoped I wouldn’t feel like wearing even at 80.” Loud Bodies sizing ranges from XXS to 10XL (0 to 42) and free custom orders are also offered.
Darling vintage-inspired British label Rixo was born out of the love of second-hand and vintage shopping from best friends Orlagh and Henrietta. “With hand-painted prints, premium materials, and vintage-inspired silhouettes, our mission is to dress you to feel your very best, in pieces you’ll treasure for years to come.” Rixo offers extended sizing from 14 to 26.
Universal Standard (previously Henning)
Founded by plus-size model Lauren Chan, Henning was a luxury brand that prioritised quality and fit, and was been recently acquired and re-branded to Universal Standard. This plus-size-focussed brand offers notes of Henning’s elevated basics and has introduced pops of colour at an affordable price point.
Founded in 1946, Rembrandt has built its brand from a small tailoring store in Wellington’s Vivian St to multi-store fit-outs across New Zealand and Australia, offering high-quality wardrobe staples alongside elevated menswear. Rembrandt offers an extended size range from 2XL to 7XL and also offers made-to-measure.
Established in 2014, Johnny Bigg offers a diverse mix of everyday clothing alongside suiting, shirts, and dressy-casual wear with size offerings from XL to 10XL. “Johnny Bigg provides him with a one-stop shop focusing on affordable, relevant fashion and footwear for the everyday guy, never compromising on quality, style or fit.”
Stalwart all-American label and household brand Ralph Lauren offers a plus-size section on its website. The luxury brand stocks from size XL to 5XL and describes the nature of its clothing as relaxed. if you’re someone with a penchant for preppy separates, it’s good to know this heritage brand can offer something timeless to add to your closet.
Denim is a must-have wardrobe staple and we love seeing denim on all body shapes. Levi’s offers extended sizing for men and women, with a plus size section that includes women’s sizing from 14 to 24, and men’s from 32 to 66, including some of its classic jean styles and some great jacket silhouettes.
We love hearing from retailers from all across Aotearoa. Jellicoe was established in 1994, founded by Deanne and Gareth Hobbs in Nelson. Designed by Deanne, the label’s range starts from XS to 4XL. Reader Sue Barriball wrote in to tell us that “their clothes are lovely and suit plus-size bodies well.” From its new delivery, we can see there are some great options, including some playful print dresses perfect for spring, and some rather cool light weight coats which provide added warmth, and look great thrown over a dress.
Niovara was founded by designer Kylie Niovara-Dave, who previously designed at Chocolat and other well-known New Zealand fashion houses. “Renowned for her fluid shapes, intelligent draping, and natural fibres, a Niovara garment is built to cherish and to last.” Niovara’s sizing ranges from 10 to 24.
This is an open and respectful conversation. Have a size-inclusive or plus-size brand doing good things? Email us at viva@nzherald.co.nz.
