New Zealand designer Kevin Berkahn, known for his opulent occasionwear and wedding dresses, has been invited to showcase his work at an international fashion exhibition. He tells Madeleine Crutchley about his career in New Zealand fashion, the potentials of glamour and why he’s fundraising to follow a special dress to Washington.
A description of style in Aotearoa New Zealand changes depending on who you ask.
If you asked Kevin Berkahn in April 1971, style was a pure silk dress in a sunflower yellow, hand-beaded over 10 days. He crafted a gown of this description for his wife, Shirley West-Blair, to wear to a centennial ball at Auckland Town Hall. Kevin felt the occasion called for stately grandeur – the guest of honour was Princess Alexandra.
“It’s proper couture... everybody just loved the dress,” the New Zealand designer says.
Now, after years in storage after its only wear, the dress is set to have another outing. In May, it will be featured in the Fashioning Power, Fashioning Peace exhibition and gala at President Woodrow Wilson House in Washington DC. The event will showcase designs from over 50 countries, each with some connection to the dressing of leaders and grandees in those states.
For Kevin, who was awarded the New Zealand Order of Merit for his service to fashion in 2010, it’s an honour to be recognised.
“I suddenly thought if we’re gonna fly the flag for New Zealand, I want to show them a bit of glamour.”
It feels more special, he says, because of the gown he’s chosen to exhibit.
“When I decided to do that dress, it felt like I had that closeness with Shirley with me. We used to be in business together and she was my rock behind me.”
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Advertise with NZME.The invitation is another exciting milestone in the now-retired designer’s career – his friend Anthony Hart is fundraising through GiveALittle with the hopes Kevin’s community will rally to get him to the event.
Kevin entered the NZ fashion industry after a move to Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland from Taniwaka Dannevirke, where he found work in the fashion industry.
After a stint designing and manufacturing for a Takapuna Boutique, Kevin went into business himself. He attracted customers with opulent, commanding entries in Gown of the Year contests (according to the NZ Fashion Museum, his 1962 entry ‘Fascination’ featured a coat made from 75 metres of tulle).
Kevin followed this niche of upmarket glamour throughout his design career, which proved to be especially popular amongst wealthy New Zealanders. In the 80s, Kevin opened both Plums Boutique in the inner-city and a huge bridal store on Karangahape Rd. There were major runway shows too – models showcased his gowns at the Sydney Opera House opening and assembled into 40 wedding parties, bridesmaids and flower girls included, for a runway at the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Parnell.
Governor General Catherine Tizard was one of the many dignitaries Kevin dressed in his career. He created a dress for her confirmation in London (and claimed to have known of her appointment months before it was announced publicly).
“We had a lot of secrets... being in the fashion business you get them all.”
His craft led Kevin into exclusive rooms too.
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Advertise with NZME.“I met Lady Diana and I’ve met Elton John, Priscilla Presley. I’ve met some really famous people through being in the old rag trade.”
Throughout his design career, Kevin has collected several nicknames. He was called the “King of Brides” for his prolific production of bridalwear.
“I made 175 copies of Lady Di’s dress,” he recalls. “I can make one of those with my eyes shut, in my sleep.”
Kevin was also called “the Dynasty-style designer” in a nod to his lavish style, which also happened to reflect a popular American soap of the 1980s called Dynasty. He named a couple of designs after the monied characters and fielded plenty of requests for costume replicas.
“I’m an entrance maker. I like making clothes for people that make big entrances.”
Kevin’s work has been recognised as a part of our fashion history, stored in the collections of Auckland Museum, the New Zealand Fashion Museum and Eden Hore Central Otago. Does he believe glamour is something we still capture in our wardrobes?
“No. Absolutely one word, no.”
He points to the proliferation of online shopping and the lack of connection New Zealanders have with their clothes before they purchase them. There’s plenty of potential in what glamour can provide, he says.
“It gives yourself a lot of respect and you take care of yourself and go that little bit of extra. You give yourself a bit of pride. It’s a chance to be in that glamour world. You don’t have to go over the top.
“[Without it] there’s nothing to look forward to. When you’ve got something to get dressed up for, you look forward to it.”
The gala in Washington is just one example of such an event. He says before the interview he’s considering which of his honours medals he might wear to enhance his ensemble.
And he’s hoping to get the donations he needs to get there.
“I’ve had wonderful friends. I couldn’t do it without them. They’re all getting behind me. They all want to wheel me off to Washington. So, look out, we’ll wait and see.”
Madeleine Crutchley is a multimedia journalist for Viva and premium lifestyle and entertainment at The New Zealand Herald. She covers stories relating to fashion, culture and food and drink, from her hometown of Auckland. Recently, she’s written about vintage and secondhand bridal, the debut of an emerging designer and local circular design.
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