Dan Ahwa: Need A Belt Or A DIY Sneaker Upgrade? An Interesting Shoelace Might Help Solve A Sartorial Rut

By Dan Ahwa
Viva
Contrasting shoelaces can be a surprisingly supportive way to update an outfit.

A styling trick appropriated from the skate community is gaining momentum.

The last time I was on a skateboard was in intermediate when a kickflip went awry, a full faceplant on the school netball courts swiftly knocking my confidence. While I could have brushed myself off and tried again, I

These days I choose to play out my skateboarding fantasies by dictating flips and turns on my PlayStation on Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater, and of course, through fashion. I’ve long believed the skating community to be the blueprint of contemporary fashion born from the street.

This is evident in the way skate legends like Tony Hawk, Jason Dill and Tony Alva celebrate their love of the sport with their personal style. We see modern-day skaters such as Evan Mock and Blondey McCoy adopting a similar mentality, the latter’s ability to seamlessly traverse the worlds of skate, luxury and fashion providing a welcome source of inspiration for a new generation of skate groupies.

In pop culture, Japanese streetwear legend Hiroshi Fujiwara is widely considered the “godfather” of streetwear (the Japanese are also, in my humble opinion, the most stylish people on the planet), and his work in combining the aesthetic worlds of skate, the creative self-expression of the Harajuku scene and American hip-hop has contributed much to the evolution of skater style.

Watching No Doubt perform at Coachella this past weekend, I was also reminded of how Gwen Stefani’s commitment to ska style and a specific kind of SoCal skater vibe is one that still resonates today, because that’s the beauty of skate culture and fashion — it transcends the ephemeral cycle of most fashion trends.

Marni’s 2023/2024 resort collection, featuring a shoelace belt.
Marni’s 2023/2024 resort collection, featuring a shoelace belt.

Collectively, this all leads me in a roundabout way to shoelaces, specifically in the context of skater fashion.

The concept of tying shoelaces around your belt loops is nothing new, but it resonates with a cross-section of people who are drawn to items of functional simplicity and a certain irreverence for the status quo, whether it’s anti-wireless headphones or a handbag shaped like a croissant.

Employed by skaters as a sartorial solution to keeping their baggy trousers up while performing tricks, as well as avoiding the discomfort of a leather belt digging into the waist, shoelace belts are an easy way to add a point of interest to an outfit without breaking the bank.

While there is a range of softer canvas belt options specifically catering to the skater market, there’s something a little more humble about shoelaces tied around the waist, a styling trick now influencing a range of designers.

Maison Margiela, for example, stayed true to its DIY and artisanal ethos by using a pair of vintage shoelaces as belts for its spring/summer 2023/2024 collection, while Marni’s resort 2023/2024 collection also tapped into its make-do spirit with a pair of shoelaces cinching at the waist.

Local menswear label Manaaki is designed by Kat Tua, a designer who is inspired by streetwear and skate culture, so it was only natural for her latest autumn/winter 2024 collection that her collection of baggy denim jeans was styled fittingly with a selection of contrasting shoelaces as a nod to the culture (disclaimer: I style for the brand). Photographer Rob Tennent helped inspire the embrace of a shoelace belt, ultimately working well with her collection of baggy denim jeans. It helped remove any bulk from the waist when teamed with Kat’s range of printed T-shirts.

It made me consider the small but significant detail of shoelaces, and how this year it’s providing something of a solution for when you’re in a sartorial rut and need an easy wardrobe tweakment that won’t break the bank.

We’ve made a case for a smart shoe revival of loafers, ballet flats and brogues after endless seasons of designers and retailers convincing us that sneakers are the only footwear we need. While shoelaces have never really interested me (I prefer to slip into a pair of boots or loafers out of sheer laziness), right now I’m considering revisiting old sneakers and perhaps updating these with the simple addition of an interesting shoelace.

The ubiquitous Adidas Samba, for example, is one I’ve long enjoyed wearing even before its recent renaissance, but its time of death earlier this month at 10 Downing Street, when British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak wore his during an interview, only confirmed to me that maybe it was time to reluctantly move on. Perhaps a red shoelace is all that’s required to give them a new outlook on life? Of course, we also don’t need to pay any attention to the fickleness of fashion here, but part of the fun of getting dressed is experimentation, after all. It may even help stave off the temptation of buying a new pair of shoelace-centric sneakers sitting in various shopping carts waiting to be processed.

New Balance x Miu Miu suede sneakers with contrasting shoelaces from a spring/summer 2024 collection.
New Balance x Miu Miu suede sneakers with contrasting shoelaces from a spring/summer 2024 collection.

Minimalist designs I once wore in 2005 have made a quiet return off the back of the Samba, like the Onitsuka Tiger et al.

Specifically, it’s Dries Van Noten’s unisex sneakers inspired by 70s marathon runners and Miu Miu’s collaboration with New Balance, with its suede sneakers and contrasting shoelaces. An update on New Balance’s 1992 530 running shoe, this version features a mix of distressed and unprocessed suede and interchangeable cord laces.

Close to home (and let’s be honest, closer to my budget), Collective Canvas has collaborated with hemp brand Buddy on a simple hemp canvas sneaker style that reminds me of a pair of bowling shoes. Available in white or blue, what makes these sneakers sing is a pair of contrasting black laces.

Also on my radar lately is Vans. The Californian skate brand has long been a proponent of skater style and in February it released a new collection that made homage to the past, present and future — the Vans retro brown and white Knu Skool sneaker, complete with hot pink laces.

Like its supporting campaign featuring the OG Tony Alva and rising skater Breana Geering, it made the point that, like skate culture, shoelaces transcend generations and economics. And off the back of another sporting-adjacent fashion phenomenon, Gorpcore, hiking boots and the laces they’re complemented by also offer an interesting contrast to a pair of shoes that may need help, with several hiking-specific laces reinventing otherwise humdrum, everyday kicks.

Whether tied around your waist as a makeshift belt or implemented as part of a wardrobe reset to make old shoes feel new, the humble accessory is helping make sense of cross-generational tastes that everyone can enjoy experimenting with right now.

How to tie a shoelace belt

Quick pro-tip: When using a shoelace belt, the correct way is to not simply loop through and tie in the front centre (this will only make the shoelace belt ride up.) Try looping through the centre buttonhole before tying it securely into a knot. For those of you who want a more advanced take on a shoelace belt, several tutorials online will lead you to built-in shoelaces at the waistband.

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A shoelace for all reasons and seasons.

A 90s style reinterpreted, the slightly chunkier laces add an irreverent detail to these skate shoe classics.

A classic yellow and black hiker-style lace is an outdoorsy alternative to classic skater laces and taps into another consistent style community of hikers and adventurers.

Made from hemp canvas, this unique collaboration between the two local brands is a great way to invest in a local sneaker with great shoelaces. Features a cork-covered ortholite Eco® insole and natural rubber foxing (the bit around the edge of the toe), outsole and toecap. Even the laces are organic.

For something slightly more fashion-forward and special, a pair of specially designed satin laces offers a unique update for a pair of sneakers.

Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in fashion, luxury, arts and culture. He is also an award-winning stylist with over 17 years of experience, and is a co-author and co-curator of The New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now.

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