Can you hear that? The tell-tale jewellery jangle that signals charms are back in vogue.
One of the earliest instances of cyclical fashion – charms are a periodic presence, with waves of popularity that can be traced back to trending among the Babylonians.
Charms have practical origins, early instances saw
Central to their appeal and current utilisation is their usage as wearable souvenirs – honouring and becoming emblematic of sentimental achievements, milestones and nostalgic occasions. They offer the opportunity for dewy-eyed romantics to lean into their pure romanticism and the more cynical to subvert this saccharine drippiness.
In some ways this latest resurgence is no accessory anomaly. The growth follows hot on the heels of the rise and growth of shoe gibbitz and layered neck messes – two mix-and-match embellishment formats with maximalism and customisation at the heart of their aesthetic ethos. The DIY traded friendship bracelets that became a fixture with fans during Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour share iconography with the modular style of Italian friendship bracelets, in which unique combinations of flat-linked block charms are interconnected to showcase your personality and niche interests.
While no doubt tied to the broader rise of vintage-influenced stylings, lean economics may also play a part in their revival. After the austere post-World War II period, charms enjoyed a boom in popularity as returning servicemen brought home charms as gifts for their loved ones. In shrewd times smaller, more affordable, pieces that can be added to and upgraded as budgets allow is savvy.
A new generation of aspirational consumers developing an appetite for the collectables is bolstering some retailers. Despite difficult economic headwinds hitting luxury brands and increases in the price of raw silver in August Danish jeweller Pandora, who have charms at the heart of their brand offering, reported robust financial prospects, predicting their organic growth this year would come in between 9% and 12%.
Whether you’re starting your collection, or adding to your curation – the below selection should serve as eye, neck, or wrist candy.
You’ve heard of mood rings, these expressive emblems are akin to mood earrings. Available in happy, melancholy and unimpressed iterations use them to signal the state of your spirit to the world. Crafted by contemporary Aotearoa jeweller Camille Paloma Walton these have the playful colour experimentation and forged markings that are characteristic of her work – the creative draws inspiration from the expressive nature of paintings and sculptural modelling to create pieces that ingeniously set sparkling gemstones in organic casts.
Via these tributes to the perils of the heart, Stolen Girlfriends Club have redefined the sweetly sentimental charm bracelet in a way fitting of their characteristically rebellious spirit. There’s a dark romanticism and gritty iconography about each of their just-released punk love symbols. Displaying a cursive cuss, they say the Warm Welcome charm should be read as “a symbol of self-confidence and going against the grain.”
Sweet things come in dainty packages. Sophie’s Little Charms are both tiny and tactile, with many of the teensy talismans featuring moving parts. These secateurs open and close, making them fun to tutu with. Like the rest of the collection, this one can be purchased on a chain, or as an individual charm with a jump loop to add to your established collection.
In need of a quality wristlet from which to display your curation? This sterling silver chain from Boh Runga, paired with one of her signature charms will make a splendid start.
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Clasping a fine chain between its pincer and crusher claws Meadowlark’s Lobster charm embodies all the mysticism associated with the crustacean: adaptability, intuition and emotional strength. Part of a recent release of updated charms that also feature a playful selection of juicy fruits, symbols of luck and traditional tattoos this sea creature is available in 23k gold plated (pictured), 9ct solid gold and sterling silver iterations. We’re equally as taken with the earring version.
When Karen Walker launched her jewellery range in 2003 a substantial charm bracelet was part of the core offering. Late last year, to mark two decades of the collection, the brand revived that original style in a new micro version that reflects the finer technological capabilities of modern fabrication. The 9-carat yellow gold fine-line version features archetypal charms, including the brand’s synonymous runaway girl, along iconography from later hallmark collections including an axe, bow and wisdom hand curved around a freshwater pearl.
Using precious metals artist Charlotte Penman creates jewellery that complements and reflects the female form. Her Granada range is “a homage to femininity and sensuality.” Inspired by a beaded necklace worn by Frida Kahlo in the 1940s, the golden pomegranate amulet is used here, as in art history, to symbolise passion, sensuality and beauty.
Offering a fresh take on vintage-inspired jewellery, Anoushka Van Rijn collections are a treasure chest of bold statement pieces. This eye-catching wristlet combines 18ct gold plated brass chain, six nobbled freshwater pearls and a single gold hematite star charm.
An accessory for your accessory. Recent rounds of the fashion week circuit saw quirky oversized charms, keychains and baubles dangling from the handbags of attendees in New York, London and Copenhagen. At Coach’s Fall-Winter 2024 show in February overblown figurines depicting New York landmarks and cultural touchpoints were affixed to bags, distilling the big energy of the Big Apple.
Drawing design cues from the sea life found on Aotearoa’s ruggedly beautiful beaches Jessica McCormack has set each outstretched arm of her curved starfish pendant with a smattering of brilliant cut diamonds in a random pavé setting. The 18k blackened white and 18k yellow gold finish off marine-inspired motif that can be worn on any of her collection’s chain or pearl necklaces.
Christchurch-based jewellery maker Sophie Divett has made a name for herself by crafting ethically made pieces inspired by ancient artefacts and the landscapes and plants of Aotearoa. This sterling silver pittosporum seed pod charm, displays elements of both. Hand cast from a real native seed pod, its natural form and textures have been preserved forever.
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