Bespoke Tailoring and Vintage Treasures: A Fashion Editor’s Guide To Shopping In Hong Kong

Where to shop in Hong Kong? Among ubiquitous luxury retailers and big chain stores, it also offers ample opportunity to buy something uniquely personal, writes Dan Ahwa.

In Hong Kong, anything goes - at least when it comes to how locals express themselves.

There is the avant-garde streetwear parading in Causeway Bay’s throbbing shopping precinct Fashion Walk, not to mention the well-heeled executives hosting clients in some of the region’s glossy Michelin-starred eateries, sliding their manicured fingers across white tablecloths.

Then there are the tank tops and layers of gold chains adorning several of its beloved street-food vendors and the linen-clad expats sipping espressos at one of several hole-in-the-wall cafes along Hollywood Rd.

Personal style reaches all facets of Hong Kong’s eclectic society.

But cutting through the noise is the quiet elegance commanded by the rigorous cut of a traditional cheongsam or qipao (the terms can be used interchangeably, the primary difference between qipao and cheongsam is in their language of origin, pronunciation and history.)

The distinctive form-fitting, knee-length dress with a mandarin collar and slit skirt, has been worn chiefly by Chinese women as far back as the Qing dynasty of the 17th century.

While it’s easy to overly romanticise Maggie Cheung’s iconic wardrobe of qipao in Wong Kar-Wai’s mesmerising 2000 film In the Mood for Love, does anyone in Hong Kong still wear them? According to our local guide, a cheongsam can be worn by anyone as long as it’s done appropriately to the occasion and dress code, but more importantly, with respect - not as a costume.

For discerning shoppers, this guide is a subjective one aimed to help filter down the endless options into a tidy list that can help you experience the best that Hong Kong fashion has to offer. While there’s always time for a market bargain in Mong Kok, the below assortment is focused squarely on quality, not quantity.

For leading Hong Kong fashion house Shanghai Tang - a brand that made a cameo in In the Mood for Love - it’s all about reinvention in its 30th year.

“I’ve worked over the years to refine what the cheongsam means not only for locals but for visitors from overseas who appreciate and respect the elegance of the cheongsam,” explains the brand’s only surviving master tailor, Bernice, who puts our model Ziyi through her paces in a custom fitting that involves fabric selection and ensuring the dress fits her like a glove - the fit of a cheongsam is crucial. In true Hong Kong style, one of these custom dresses can take only a couple of weeks from conception to its final destination - your closet.

Founded in 1994 by local businessman David Tang, Shanghai Tang‘s mission to modernise the cheongsam lives on not only through its collections for all genders but also its undeniable influence on a new generation of fashion designers looking to redefine the garment - like Julie Liu, whose brand, Qipology, offers an affordable alternative, including ready-to-wear iterations you can buy off the rack.

While Shanghai Tang’s Pacific Place residence at 88 Queensway in the Admiralty area also offers ready-to-wear options, Bernice’s true passion is for the garment created in its purest form. In between fitting Ziying, she stops to show me a photo on her phone of the Hong Kong celebrities and royalty who she counts as loyal customers, including a recent order from Libyan royal, Princess Alia Al-Senussi.

Having worked as a tailor for the past 40 years - 13 at Shanghai Tang - Bernice is still passionate about upholding the elegance and values of the distinctive design, a hallmark of the brand.

Not only confined to modern-day cheongsam, the brand also trades in accessories for men and women, homewares and fragrances. While there is no shortage of luxury brands in Hong Kong - many of them count their Hong Kong boutiques as some of the best in the world - Shanghai Tang’s localised luxury is an experience visitors should consider first-hand, with recent openings of stores across Singapore, Shanghai, and Beijing confirming its renaissance for a new generation.

“We’re celebrating 30 years in business this year and it’s a time to reflect on what a brand like this means to people not only here in Hong Kong, but internationally too,” explains Bernice, who explains that ultimately it’s all about making people feel like the best versions of themselves.

“I feel happy when people feel satisfied with my work.”

The new guard: Qipology

A fresh take on tradition, this local favourite offers one raison d’etre - “we all come in different shapes and sizes, and so should your qipao”.

This local brand has garnered a loyal following of mostly younger fans since it launched in 2017, re-examining the qipao in new and fresh ways.

After studying in the UK and gaining a master’s degree in fashion buying at the prestigious Istituto Marangoni in Lombardy in Northern Italy, founder Julie Liu returned to Hong Kong working for luxury specialists Pedder Group, Dolce & Gabbana and DFS, LVMH. Subsequently, she branched out to focus on her passion for the qipao, with an aim to get people wearing the style once more.

What sparked this passion was an invitation to a wedding where the theme was “Shanghai Tang”. “I needed to find a cheongsam at a good price point, but my choices were either the cheap ones you find in street markets or the expensive ones like those at Shanghai Tang. In the end, I got one made.”

Her most recent collection includes cut-out tops that utilise the qipao’s signature collar, silk blouses and even a cable knit qipao jacket for men and kids. The brand also creates modern takes on the qipao for brides.

Visit Qipology at H314, Block B, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St, Central, Hong Kong.

The vintage mecca: Midwest Vintage

Upcycled streetwear and a slice of Americana makes this vintage destination a must-visit in Hong Kong.

As one of Hong Kong’s beloved vintage haunts, for three decades, Midwest Vintage has offered customers one-of-a-kind vintage sourced predominantly - as the name suggests - from the Midwest (mostly Texas). But what makes this vintage treasure trove particularly special is its in-house sub-brands of upcycled garments - First Edition, Midwest Supply and MiniMidwest.

Holiday shirts are slashed and pieced together in a joyful medley of colour and print; preppy Polo Ralph Lauren garments are also cut up and sewn back together to create unique and reimagined pieces. Also selling complementary accessories including an impressive collection of vintage leather jackets and Kangol hats. While its popularity has naturally seen it open several outlets across Hong Kong over the years, its must-visit location is the two-level store located in the Wan Chai district.

Local jewellers such as Whitedo Handcrafts by Ying also offer something unique. The brand specialises in organic-looking silver necklaces, bracelets and rings.

Visit Midwest Vintage at Shop 20, G/F, Victoria Centre, 15 Watson Rd, North Point, Hong Kong.

Tailoring expert: William Cheng & Son

On a wall at William Cheng & Son Tailors is an impressive line-up of business cards that indicate the level of clientele who frequent its headquarters; returning customers who swear by the business and the respected service it has delivered since 1958.

From directors at prestigious auction houses like Sotheby’s to CEOs of some of the world’s leading banks, second-generation owner Sandy Cheng continues in the tradition his father William Cheng began, providing quality tailoring to discerning customers from all walks of life.

Downstairs from the men’s store is a dedicated atelier for women’s tailoring, where we’re greeted by Nicole and Maggie, who talk us through the process of a custom suit for the office or a brocade qipao for a special occasion. From the initial consult to the final fitting, a bespoke order can take anywhere from two weeks to a month. Working with a range of luxurious fabrics, some key textiles include a choice selection of Thai silks, cashmere wool and gabardine, clients can select their choice from a library of fabric swatches. Head upstairs, and it’s an equally organised space for male clients who can converse with their personal tailor and select from thousands of fabric choices - whether it’s a shirt or a suit they’re looking to invest in.

“We’ve dressed everyone from judges to politicians, and our customers come from all over the world,” explains Sandy. “We have several key customers coming from Europe, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand, who appreciate the way we work and our precise attention to detail.”

Shipping globally, Sandy is one of Hong Kong’s most connected business people providing customers with a large variety of fabrics (4000 in total) to choose from its conveniently located Tsim Sha Tsui head office.

During our meeting, Byron, a CEO from Sydney came in for his fitting for a new suit, explaining he was only in town for a few days, and a trip to see Sandy and his team was essential.

“I’ve been coming here for all my suits over the years and these guys really know what they’re doing - I always feel like I’m taken good care of here.”

Visit William Cheng & Son at 8/F, Han Hing Mansion, 38 Hankow Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong.

The avant-hub: Fashion Walk

International brands stand side by side with some of Hong Kong’s best fashion retailers in a melting pot of creativity and self-expression.

There are dozens of perfect places for people-watching in Hong Kong, but for people-watching with a layer of style, you can’t miss the hive of activity and peacocking that goes on in Causeway Bay’s shopping precinct of Fashion Walk. The unique fusion of indoor and outdoor space includes a range of vibrant areas across Paterson, Kingston, and Food Streets, where you can stop for a refreshing bubble tea in between a spot of retail therapy.

If you’re after an easy gift that acknowledges one of Hong Kong’s beloved fashion brands, Kapok is a good starting point. What started as a small shop founded by a French owner in Tin Hau is now a mini-empire with stores in Central, Tsim Sha Tsui and even Singapore; but its generous boutique on Kingston St is a Fashion Walk landmark not to be missed.

Elsewhere, a terrific selection of hard-to-find pieces is stocked at the Vivienne Westwood boutique Patterson St flagship in Fashion Walk, along with a diverse selection of some of the best streetwear you’ll find at Juice Store on Cleveland St. Founded by actor, singer, rapper, fashion designer and entrepreneur Edison Chen, what makes Juice a unique retail port of call in Hong Kong is how it bridges the gap between East and the West, and how streetwear in Hong Kong has a unique point of view.

What also makes it unique is its range of community-driven events, pop-ups and activations, and localised collaborations with behemoths such as Adidas and Converse just some examples of its reach and influence on the local streetwear scene.

For local Fashion Walk regular Will Wong, who works in a spiritual centre in Causeway Bay, being part of the area’s diverse expression of style is one great way to be spirited while out shopping for fashion in Hong Kong. “I care about the freedom to express myself,” he says after we spot his lavender-hued hair in the street. “Here you get to dress how you want, and the area supports the idea that fashion is something that can only be defined by you.” Like all great things about Hong Kong, all of the local retailers close around 11pm.

Visit Fashion Walk at Great George St, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong.

The menswear paradise: Pedder Arcade

Away from the crowds and located at the top of the iconic Pedder Building, you’ll appreciate this hushed enclave of timeless style for men.

It features a small curation of boutique shops, an art gallery, and a bar and cafe positioned in the heart of the fifth floor of this Beaux-Arts landmark and my first port of call here is at the multi-brand store The Armoury, where are sold an extensive range of custom and bespoke offerings from its in-house brand, exclusive collaborations and even a shoe line. With a boutique in New York, The Armoury is the perfect pit stop for the discerning man.

Having opened a year ago, the European-inspired shopping arcade is also home to a niche anomaly - The Lokman Rare Books Shop, selling antiquarian and first-edition books, including a first edition of Charlotte’s Web and a first edition of culinary rarity The Epicurean, by Charles Ranhofer, which covers the fascinating look at elite restaurant cooking from the American Civil War to the turn of the last century.

Visit Pedder Arcade at 5/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St, Central, Hong Kong.

The future of retail: K11 Musea

Artwork plays a central point of difference in this glossy neighbourhood of high-end fashion.

Hot tip: wear comfortable shoes. This sprawling retail landmark spans a mix of 250 retailers and 70 destination restaurants. Just don’t call in a mall. In fact, with more than 40 artist installations dotted across this seven-storey, 31,600sq m destination, it’s more than a mall but a shining exemplar of how art and commerce can co-exist. At the heart of Victoria Dockside, K11 Art and Cultural District, K11 Musea is built on a historic site formerly known as Holt’s Wharf, a freight and logistics hub that transformed Hong Kong into one of the busiest ports in the world.

Since opening in 2019, K11 Musea has not only become synonymous as a destination for some of luxury’s best stores (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Gucci, Alexander McQueen all have some of their best retail spaces here), but it’s also a place where a world-class rotation of art events, collaborations, experiences and workshops take place every year. It’s the ideal shopping destination for people who aren’t exclusively there to shop - there’s plenty to do while strolling around whether it’s whiskey tasting, taking in an impressive array of contemporary art or simply taking in the views of Hong Kong harbour located right on its doorstep.

The brainchild of billionaire property developer Adrian Cheng, who told Forbes upon its opening that “the goal of K11 Musea is to become the Silicon Valley of Culture in Hong Kong. We first introduced contemporary art into our malls to add to the cultural experience for our community. Through the power of creative architecture, design, art and enrichment of the consumer offline and online experience, we are creating a unique cultural-retail experience that is at the very forefront of consumer entertainment and engagement.”

Visit K11 Musea at Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

The luxury enclave: The Landmark

A glossy neighbourhood connected by bridges makes this luxury destination a playground for people with serious money to burn.

From Chanel to Bottega Veneta to Burberry and Louis Vuitton’s Asia flagship, this trusted collection of luxury stores also includes some of the best line-up of restaurants. A stones-throw away from the iconic Mandarin Oriental, what makes this destination special is how it’s linked by pedestrian bridges that connect 208 stores and restaurants. It’s also home to an actively engaged market - the Landmark is home to many leading law firms and barristers’ chambers.

Specific stores some might be interested in include Wristcheck, a watch boutique that welcomes watch enthusiasts from all over the world. Housing a range of certified pre-owned luxury watches, Wristcheck also offers a drop-off service for any pre-owned watches that clients wish to sell, supported with complimentary professional in-house photography and evaluation from trained watch specialists.

Charbonnel et Walker is another key highlight you should visit if only to sample some of its exquisite hand-made chocolates made from traditional recipes of Madame Charbonnel, packaged up in its luxurious handmade boxes and satin ribbons (an impressive souvenir for loved ones).

If your eyes need a break from the opulence, don’t fret: the mall’s prime location in Admiralty allows visitors to combine a day of shopping with sightseeing, with nearby attractions such as the Hong Kong Park, the Starstreet Precinct, and the iconic Victoria Harbour conveniently nearby.

Visit The Landmark at 15 Queen’s Rd Central, Central, Hong Kong.

Hero Image / Ziying Zhao from Quest Models wears Shanghai Tang. Photographer / Babiche Martens. Fashion Director / Dan Ahwa. Hair and make-up / Krystina Te Kanawa. Shoot assistant / Emma Gleason

Dan Ahwa travelled to Hong Kong courtesy of Hong Kong Tourism Board. Cathay Pacific flies daily from Auckland to Hong Kong.

Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in the intersections of style, luxury, art and culture. Recent stories to catch up on include how at the Hīkoi to parliament, self-expression through dress was also a form of protest; interviewing Team NZ CEO Grant Dalton; and the connection between navy suits conservatism and dressing fragile masculinity in a Trump era.

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