San Francisco’s sunny disposition and alternative history are drawcards for those seeking a more genteel west coast experience outside the glamour and grind of LA.
Here in the Bay Area, you’re surrounded by rolling hills steeped in history, the iconic Golden Gate Bridge connecting the northern tip of the San
It’s the home of Hunter S. Thompson, the father of Gonzo journalism, and the meeting point of hippies during that seminal summer in 1967 — the “summer of love” — which gave way to the emancipation of youth.
There’s its famous “Painted Ladies”, of course, towering Edwardian and Victorian multi-level homes rendered in a rainbow assortment of colour — immortalised in the opening credits of Full House.
Whether it’s a short visit or a stopover on the way to the east coast, San Francisco is the perfect city for a busy traveller looking to catch their breath. If it’s shopping you’re after, start with Divisadero St (“Divis” to locals).
Rent a bike or simply take a stroll — this is one of the best cities in the world to walk around in. If you have only a few days to spare, here are a few of my highlights from a recent three-day pitstop for your consideration.
A must-visit
This contemporary art museum dedicated to exhibiting and amplifying the works of artists exclusively of the African diaspora is a unique insight into both established and emerging artists across multiple disciplines. Don’t miss the last few weeks of The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion, a significant survey of 15 contemporary fashion photographers from London to Lagos, including the likes of London-born photographer Nadine Ijewere and Tyler Mitchell, the first Black photographer hired to shoot a cover story for American Vogue. 685 Mission St.
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Situated in the mid-market and Tenderloin neighbourhoods, this newly opened addition to The Line hotel’s sexy portfolio includes a Chinese-American fusion eatery and a collection of unique artworks from the Bay Area, including notable names such as Cinque Mubarak and Laura Plageman. One highlight is having access to great vinyl records and a cocktail bar in your room. The rooftop bar is a great way to soak in San Fran’s famous golden hour. 33 Turk St.
Conveniently located in the heart of Union Square, this San Franciscan institution is old-school in style and service. There is an outdoor courtyard swimming pool, fitness centre and private parking available for rentals, and you’re a stone’s throw away from key must-visit locations including The Museum of Modern Art and the Aquarium of the Bay. Rooms are comfortably furnished with your own private terrace — ideal for families who need somewhere safe and convenient. 351 Geary St, Union Square.
Where to dine
Book a table at this local hot spot where you can watch a parade of independent films projected on to a wall outside the courtyard while you feast on some great food inspired by the flavours of California and the Mediterranean. A major drawcard is the full oyster bar. If you’re looking to kick off a magical kind of night in San Fran with a group of people or friends, start here. 2534 Mission St.
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Advertise with NZME.San Francisco’s oldest diner is a history lesson in itself. Established in 1918, it’s the perfect stop for authentic American diner fare, situated in the hip Mission district. Try one of its famous grilled cheese toasted sandwiches followed by a creamy milkshake — a slice of old-timey Americana not to be missed. 2801 24th St.
Located in the historic Jackson Square, this is the perfect spot to dine with a group — the outdoor area spilling out on the pavement is a lively place to have a good night out. The menu changes daily according to what’s available from local farms. You can’t go past its antipasti serving of burrata with bresaola, shinko pear and wild arugula. The cocktail menu also makes the most of locally sourced ingredients. 490 Pacific Ave.
If you plan on exploring San Fran by bike or by foot, I highly recommend a visit to Rose’s Cafe, in the quiet Cow Hollow neighbourhood, to start or end your excursion. A great brunch spot and close to the water, you’ll find coffee on tap and simple, home-style meals that will set you up for a day of sightseeing or provide the perfect wind-down with a Californian red. Its lemon-hued exterior is unmissable. 2298 Union St.
A trip to San Fran isn’t complete without a visit to Japantown, a historic enclave with an assortment of specialty stores and eateries. One of those is in a nondescript mall — Marufuku Ramen. Here I had possibly one of the best bowls of ramen I’ve ever eaten, the perfect spot to have a soothing bowl of ramen and sake as an introduction to Japantown before venturing out into the neighbouring area. It’s Japanese with a Cali kick. 151 Webster St.
Where to shop
This San Francisco institution was a gathering point for activists and the Beatnik cognoscenti during the 60s, and today continues to be a symbol of independence and survival. Best known for publishing Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems, it’s a great spot to while an afternoon away exploring its shelves of literary treasures. 261 Columbus Ave.
Yes, I know, this is probably not the off-the-beaten-track romantic vintage obscurity you were hoping for but if you want to shop good vintage in San Fran, we all know you just have to trawl the iconic Haight St for some old gems. Everlane is the opposite. It’s new and simple clothes with a distinctive Californian spirit and the shopping experience is equally chic. Here you’ll find great clothes for all genders headquartered in San Fran with one store in NYC. Its mission of selling clothing with transparent pricing is also admirable. 461 Valencia St.
Where to surprise yourself
An “inclusive” member’s club, this perfectly located centre close to the Financial District is good for business travellers. I catch up with Tim Brown from Allbirds for a coffee here, and marvel at its mix of clientele — executives mixing with entrepreneurs and creatives. Designed by world-famous interior designer Ken Fulk, the strategic membership approvals don’t rely on status or financial standing. 717 Battery St.
Sausalito
Rent a bike and ride across the Golden Gate Bridge for the perfect day trip to Sausalito if the weather is agreeable. It’s the perfect way to fully take in the romance of San Francisco. Stop for lunch at Scoma’s of Sausalito, a waterfront mainstay of the community, with great views of the ocean. Take the ferry back to Fisherman’s Wharf — you’ll pass Alcatraz Island on the way back, a great overall look at this historical point of interest.
A 20-minute train journey and a bus ride from Union Square is an ideal way to spend some time away from downtown San Fran and explore this 40ha zoo close to the Pacific Ocean. Home to 1000 exotic, endangered and rescued animals representing more than 250 species, its tranquil setting is a good way to recalibrate tired travelling eyes. Sloat Blvd and Upper Great Highway.
How to get there
There are a couple of non-stop flight options from Auckland International Airport. One of these is United Airlines, which resumed its non-stop service to San Francisco in October 2022 using its Boeing 787-10 Dreamliner. Make sure to visit its stunning Polaris Lounge, an ultra-chic way to refresh, with showers stocked with Sunday Riley toiletries, a restaurant and buffet-style options, quiet rooms for sleeping and a bar for a quick cocktail before your next flight.
