Where To Eat, Drink & Play In New Plymouth

Aotearoa’s west coast beaches have a chilly, blusterous reputation. But New Plymouth has a knack for pairing wild storms and big waves with innovative people who have a penchant for creating warm, inviting spaces to hang out.

For a little city of just over 80,000, the Taranaki hub certainly punches above its weight with hospitality and art. Bordered by wide open landscapes, a 13km seaside path and the towering Taranaki maunga, this is an urban setting that’s enveloped in nature.

Here’s where to eat, what to see, and where to shop when you’re in Ngāmotu.

For bagels, boards and brews

A one-stop shop is the perfect scenario if you’re in the mood for not much. At cafe Bleached, you can sip coffee while immersed in the excellently curated store Crystal Cylinder. The cafe’s tables are scattered among racks of streetwear and shelves filled with incense holders, travel mugs and swirly candelabras, with a back room stacked with glossy surfboards. Despite the industrial fit-out at Bleached, the space feels warm. Cool concrete is punctuated with yellow splashes of paint on the walls, a checked yellow coffee table, and sunny-hued cushions. Sit down with a “Pickle ‘n’ Cheese” vegan bagel, loaded with grilled cheese, sweet and sour pickles, kasundi ketchup and dill.

Closer to the water is Proof and Stock, a roastery and takeaway coffee haunt with a homely aesthetic. Owners Tane Morgan and Adrianna Greenhill run the business from their double garage, roasting the beans, packing wholesale orders and making barista coffees all in one spot. It’s a locals’ favourite.

Also try: Ozone Coffee is an international success story. They now have four cafes dotted across London, but their humble beginnings were in New Plymouth. Head here for a coffee made with beans roasted on-site and a cabinet full of loaded open sandwiches. 47 King St.

For an urban wine tasting

To sip wine in the same setting that it’s made usually requires a trip to the countryside. Vineyards are vast places filled with row after row of grapes, and visiting one often becomes a choice between a quaint cellar door or a luxurious long lunch. Known Unknown is neither of those things. It’s an urban winery in an unassuming location; a car yard is across the road and a furniture store is around the corner. But what the exterior is lacking in glamour, the inside of Known Unknown makes up for. Excellent natural wines such as a carbonic red and a rosy pet nat are flowing, and the unpretentious passion of owner and winemaker Jules van Costello gives the space a cheerful, unintimidating feel.

Although Jules appreciates traditional wines, it’s natural, organic wines that excite him. “What appeals to me about natural wine is the democratic element of it,” he says. “While it’s not necessarily cheap, it is accessible for people if they want to learn about wine, in a way that the classical wines of the world just aren’t. I want people to know that you don’t have to have deep knowledge and experience with wine to be able to enjoy it. I think sometimes the wine world makes wine a little too serious.”

Also try: Itch Wine Bar is a snug, dimly-lit wine, whisky and cocktail bar that’s best for a nightcap or a cheeseboard, or both. White Hart Courtyard, Queen St.

For a piece to take home

No matter how much they imitate vintage, modern light fittings just never seem to look the same as their authentic, older counterparts. In Vintage Industries’ flagship store (they also have a cafe called Vintage Industries Coffee House on the other side of town), European-sourced brass chandeliers, boat lighting and industrial pendant shades are blended with a mixture of new yet unique items such as handmade rugs and festoon lights. Good quality doesn’t come cheap, but the pieces are built with timelessness in mind.

At The Jewel And The Jeweller, contemporary jewellery holds its own in all its sculptural beauty. Nestled at the end of an alleyway (which conveniently scoots past the pastry and sourdough-laden bakery, Billow), owner Jennifer Laracy curates a space filled with rings, earrings, necklaces and bits and pieces from New Zealand jewellers. You can attend jewellery-making workshops, and even collaborate with the team to learn how to make your own wedding ring.

Also try: Brimming with sculptures, art, objects and knick-knacks from incredible makers throughout Aotearoa, Kina Art Space is a treasure trove of special pieces. Across the road, their “sister gallery”, Kingsroy, is a sleek, pared-back exhibition space showing stunning works more suited for a splurge. 101 Devon St West and 106 Devon St West.

For a smorgasbord of art

The Len Lye Centre has become the most iconic building in New Plymouth. A wavy, reflective stainless steel facade pays homage to the late film-maker and kinetic sculptor Len Lye. Inside the gallery, which adjoins The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, you’ll find a large collection of Len’s sketches, films and experimental sculptures. If you’re not a gallery-goer, head down to the waterfront and find one of his designs brought to life; the Wind Wand stands 48m tall, and sways as the sea breeze hits it.

To peruse the works of Taranaki talents, head to Koru on Devon — a contemporary art gallery owned by two New Plymouth locals, renowned photographer Fay Looney and painter Linda McFetridge. “We want people to experience a really diverse and rich art experience,” says Linda, who also curates the space. “What Fay and I have always tried to achieve is accessible art that makes people think and feel. We want people to feel comfortable walking into the gallery, rather than it feeling too austere or too elite.”

For pizza and a pint

Just a 10-minute drive down the coast from New Plymouth is the little town of Oakura. Situated right beside the vast beach is Black Sand Pizzeria & Bistro, offering sweeping views of the ocean and perfectly blistered, Neapolitan-style woodfired pizza. For traditional pizza loyalists, there are the classics like puttanesca and marinara, but if you’re after more indulgence, toppings such as burnt honey and nduja pepperoncini also make their way into the menu.

Back in town, there are plenty of pints to be tried at Shining Peak Brewing. It’s beer with a conscience, as every month they donate 5 per cent of their beer revenues to a different Taranaki organisation. Since 2019, they’ve raised more than $170,000. Essentially, they also serve great beer; there are hazy pale ales, hoppy IPAs, rich porters and everything in between.

For a good kip

In the summer months, Belt Road is a brilliant choice if you’re into camping. The coastal campsite is set atop a cliff by the port, with views spanning the North Taranaki Bight and nearby Paritutu Rock, with the summit ascend being a popular hike. Offering both tent and caravan sites with a selection of tidy cabins, the campsite is perfect for a low-key holiday.

For an easy city break, King and Queen Hotel — located on the corner of King St and Queen St, of course — is polished comfort right in the middle of town. Most rooms have a balcony, and a bonus is that Ozone Coffee is just a few steps away.

At a quieter pace is Ahu Ahu Beach Villas, perched on a clifftop at Oakura. The rustic chic villas are built with sustainable and recycled materials, and look upon the ocean and farmland. There are four villas to choose from, depending on whether you’re heading on a family holiday or lovers’ weekend away.