The romance of Paris comes to life through the glossy lens of one of the world’s most revered brands, Cartier. Dan Ahwa reports after a whirlwind jaunt in the City of Lights where social impact and cultural heritage are reshaping luxury’s true value.
“A little too much is just enough,”
It’s a sentiment that perhaps sums up Paris as a town of all-or-nothing extremes. A city where lust for life and liberty is well documented, from the might of the French Revolution to the unapologetic beauty of the Belle Epoque era, to its passionate history of protest — from the riots of 68 to two weeks prior to my arrival, when activists staged protests to denounce the Government’s recent pension reforms.
It’s an extreme that exists on the streets, from the aroma wafting from its beloved boulangeries to the piquant odours on the Metro on a drizzly spring day — filtered by that hazy glaze of light that makes everything look idealistic, every hour of the day.
It’s there as you crane your head towards the skyline, where beautiful neo-classical buildings stand in unity with contemporary and equally prolific buildings like the Centre Pompidou, right through to the grand arch at La Defense.
And it is the extremities found in the rarest of accoutrements.
Like the bejewelled sword once owned by Cocteau gleaming back at me in the Jean Cocteau Salon at the legendary home of Cartier on 13 Rue de la Paix. The intensity of the blade from a Toledo armoury is offset with a cluster of tiny rubies and a single 2.84-carat emerald diamond resting at the top of its scabbard, once owned by another French icon, fashion designer Coco Chanel.
Up close and personal with this flamboyant piece of weaponry designed by Cocteau himself, in collaboration with Cartier, I’m struck by the surrealism of its design, with its handguard in the shape of the profile of Orpheus, the mythical ancient Greek hero.
Created by French luxury titan Cartier in 1955, the sword was a commissioned order, gifted to the novelist, visual artist and pioneer of the avant-garde movement upon his appointment to the Academie Francaise, to which individuals — in typically French gallant fashion — are nominated as immortals.
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The luxury jewellery brand is, of course, synonymous with the upper echelons of fine jewellery and the distinctive red boxes they come encased in, but it clearly also has a rich history in delivering unique custom orders too.
It’s one of many notable cultural treasures encountered during a four-day pit stop in Paris at the invitation of Cartier for a variety of activities, including a visit to its recently renovated and impressive six-storey Haussman-style flagship boutique, attending the Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards — the brand’s hero social impact enterprise, and, of course, an assortment of cultural and culinary experiences one would expect nothing less of from the French capital.
If there was ever a chance to view Paris through the glossy lens of one of the nation’s revered maisons, this was it.
At Cartier’s flagship, where it has stood since 1899, the street of Rue de la Paix runs north from Place Vendome and ends at the Opera Garnier (the latter now under construction until late 2024). It’s an area best known for its jewellers and high fashion boutiques, with Cartier a steadfast exemplar of the physical retail experience reimagined for the future with its recent facelift.
An atrium on its lower level is an immediate drawcard as you enter, filtering natural light throughout the boutique, which occupies the ground and first two floors of the building. The third floor is reserved for services for clients with uniquely positioned salon spaces decorated with individual themes (the aptly named Faune & Flore Salon a personal highlight, rendered in green velvet and gold accents), and the fourth is home to high-end jewellery workshops. On the fifth and sixth floors, visitors can find the archives, a winter garden, and a space reserved for entertaining and events, with painted motifs of an exotic jungle climbing up its walls.
Brands like Cartier are essential contributors to the economics of France, and more importantly, continue to be one of the key benefactors for maintaining its vital arts, culture and heritage ecosystem.
It’s evident in our first cultural visit, at the breathtaking Petit Palais Museum. Across the street, its big sister, the Grand Palais, continues to be shrouded in scaffolding, another Parisian landmark under construction, placing all the spotlight on the smaller palace.
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Advertise with NZME.Inside, its latest exhibition, Sarah Bernhardt: And the woman created the star, is an extensive homage to a figure who was audacious in her life as an artist, actress, performer and courtesan. Bernhardt was the original radical influencer to whom everyone from Madonna to Kim Kardashian owe much of their fame.
On display until August, an impressive display of her paintings, sculptures, costumes and some of Bernhardt’s own art collection, tells the story of a woman who lived a progressive life, travelling the world performing in theatre with an entourage that included the likes of Victor Hugo and Gustave Dore.
When Oscar Wilde once famously asked her, “Do you mind if I smoke?” Bernhardt replied, “I don’t care if you burn.”
Like some of the other unconventional women who make up Cartier’s orbit — including past creative director Jeanne Toussaint, who held the position from 1933 to the early 70s and was a firm advocate for the emancipation of women; and high-profile client Wallis Simpson — Bernhardt was an example of a woman who challenged the status quo.
Several garments on display indicate a woman whose sense of style was equally larger than life; a floor-sweeping coat trimmed with ermine and embroidered by hand with gold stitching and pearls just one example of Bernhardt’s penchant for the life extravaganza.
If France is personified by the female figure of Marianne, Bernhardt seemingly embodied that vision as a true goddess of liberty, equality and fraternity.
Another cultural institution is the contemporary offering at Palais de Tokyo. A short walk there includes an opportunity to tick off other essential sights — the Pont Alexandre III bridge, the most ornate and extravagant bridge in Paris with its gilded nymph reliefs; the Flame of Liberty sculpture, north of the Pont de l’Alma tunnel, where the late Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed tragically died in a car crash in 1997; and the latticed wonder that is the Eiffel Tower, the piece de resistance of the 1889 World Fair and a maternal structure for the city — the French word for tower is “une tour”, which is feminine.
Taking in the surrounding views, we stop for lunch at the chic Monsieur Bleu. Nestled in the Palais de Tokyo, it’s worth making a visit here if only to soak in some respite from its soothing colour palette of green velvet banquettes and gold chandeliers, accompanied by sprawling views overlooking the Seine. Designed by acclaimed French architect Joseph Dirand, the interiors take inspiration from Art Deco glamour, the artwork of Yves Klein, and the minimalist style of Adolf Loos. It is here we indulged in plates piled with a bourbon vanilla Napoleon mille-feuille.
Later that evening, Bernhardt’s spirit of an unapologetically modern woman was reflected in the eyes of 32 finalists who make up this year’s fellows of Cartier’s 17th annual Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards held at another impressive Parisian institution, the Salle Pleyel concert hall (if a ticket to the symphony is on the cards, check in here for its programming).
The awards are the basis of the trip’s itinerary, and a unique display of how a brand is committed to reshaping how luxury can provide a platform to help amplify marginalised voices.
With a guest list of more than 1000 attendees, the awards is a culmination of an annual drive to offer grant funding, business mentorship and connectivity for female entrepreneurs and women-led businesses around the world. This year it also debuted an award open to all genders — the Diversity, Equity & Inclusion Award.
Hosted by comedian and activist Sandi Toksvig, the awards featured inspiring speakers such as Cyrille Vigneron, the arts-loving president and chief executive officer of Cartier International, along with activists Amal Clooney, Yara Shahidi and Melanie Laurent.
“These are all people changing systems, one project at a time,” said Clooney on the night. “These women are citizens of the world who get in the arena, and fight for a better future.”
Previous New Zealand finalists include Rebecca Percasky from Better Packaging, who was the South East Asia and Oceania winner in 2021, and social entrepreneur and founder of Eat My Lunch and AF Drinks, Lisa King, who was a Southeast Asia and Oceania finalist in 2020 and was a juror for the Oceania category this year.
“What is inspiring about Oceania applicants is that you’re firmly progressive countries and many of these businesses are self-sustaining,” explains global programme director Wingee Sampaio.
Back at my hotel base of Kimpton St Honore Paris, you’ll find another example of how the French imbue so much of their history and culture into their everyday life. The former department store, built in 1917, opened in 2021, and has maintained much of its Art Nouveau origins — including the wooden elevators in the reception area.
Now updated as a boutique hotel in the heart of Paris, it is a stone’s throw away from other key locations like the Faubourg Saint-Honore and Tuileries Gardens.
And there’s a reason why they call it the French Enlightenment; Paris continues to support progressive, creative thinking while treasuring its cultural heritage. If every city in the world prioritised this, perhaps we’d be living in a very different world.
On my final night, I head to the rooftop to take a moment to reflect on the power of Paris after dark. If there’s one thing you must do here, it’s find a rooftop at night with a glass of wine. Maybe with a bowl of French fries. Too much — but just enough.
About town
Dan shares a brief assortment of highlights from Paris. Take note for your next trip.
A special meal: Taillevent
The two-Michelin star restaurant is legendary. Its private dining room, the Saturne Room, is perfect for a magical slice of fine dining Parisian-style with a group; or for a romantic date for two, there are plenty of hushed corners to indulge some private time in. Once the exclusive mansion of the Duke of Morny, dishes include saddle of lamb with green olives and chanterelles in pastry, or a Taillevent tradition — scampi black pudding. 15 Rue Lamennais.
A quiet drink: Carette
What’s not to love about overlooking Place des Vosges? I caught up with a friend for a wine at Carette, which is a peaceful place to sit under the beautiful arcades of the uniformed buildings that surround this famous square, and sample its famous hot chocolate with cream. If you want to escape the crowds at other iconic cafes such as Cafe de Flore or Les Deux Magots, tranquillity lives here. 25 Place des Vosges.
Historical fare: La Poule au Pot
For some classic French fare like escargots (when in Paris!) or beef tartare, this one-Michelin star restaurant has been around for more than 80 years, has pink tablecloths, friendly staff and has welcomed in a range of famous faces whose names are immortalised on tiny placards on the walls; everyone from Mick Jagger to Daft Punk. For sweet tooths, you can’t look past the ile Flottante aux pralines roses. 9 Rue Vauvillier.
Designer vintage: Collector Square
For vintage collectors, this resale leader specialises in second-hand luxury bags, watches, jewellery, art and collector’s items with a chic showroom on Boulevard Raspail. Make an appointment with one of Collector Square’s vintage specialists or horologists and view its collection of vintage Dior, Hermes and Chanel bags, Cartier watches, rare art, sculptures and more. 36 Boulevard Raspail 75007.
Fashion and homewares: Merci
This Parisian institution remains a steadfast go-to destination for the very best in French design and homewares. A lifestyle concept store, you can easily spend several hours here perusing its vintage furniture, fashion accessories, and visit the used book cafe on the ground floor for coffee and respite. 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais.
For diamonds: Cartier
As mentioned in my main story, this is a great example of what the future of luxury retail looks like. Not a hard sell on product but a chance to immerse yourself into the historical value of brands like this in France. In fact, you don’t even need to be in the market for diamonds. Here you’ll encounter a visceral experience learning about the world’s leading French jewellery brand, its creative origins, and the people who’ve inspired its uniquely French history. With a renovation that has taken two years to complete, it’s a must-visit for anyone looking to learn a little about French creativity and savoir-faire with a leader in luxury. The reinvention of the first three levels, the discovery and sales area, was entrusted to the revered Moinard Betaille agency, who have been designing and fitting out Cartier boutiques for over 20 years. A perfect combination of fashion, history, design, arts and culture. 13 Rue de la Paix.
Applications for the 2024 edition of the Cartier Women’s Initiative are open until June 30. Visit Cartierwomensinitiative.com
