String a tote bag over your shoulder and ready your comfiest footwear — we’re headed on a tour of Auckland’s best and brightest local markets.
Tāmaki Makaurau is spoilt for choice when it comes to pop-up markets. From (slightly kitsch and overly nostalgic) gingham-dressed crates full of vegetables and fruit
Within the built environment, markets hold a unique position. As temporary structures, they invite patrons and stallholders to roam, socialise and gather on regular occasions, and can become real fixtures in people’s lives. Many offer greater affordability, provide a space for cultural connection and create access to goods unavailable at supermarkets.
My own memories of the Avondale markets stretch back to early morning bike riding, with my 8-year-old self trailing my Aunty’s wheel, tote bags hanging from my glittery handlebars. Plenty of the stallholders and early morning shoppers I chatted to on my ventures highlighted a long-term relationship to their local markets too — taking charge of a stall after their parents passed it on or starting a Saturday morning tradition when they moved to the city.
Dr Lee Beattie, urban designer and head of School of Architecture and Planning at the University of Auckland, observes that markets, due to their lively environments and placement within existing communities, might provide an opportunity in our present moment.
“For me, as an urban designer, we’re really about trying to create quality built environments. If we’re serious about sustainability, climate change and all of those resiliency [concepts] we need to really think about different types of urban form.”
As temporary structures that facilitate a gathering between local businesses and neighbours, markets might exemplify some of our ambitions for more walkable and hospitable neighbourhoods.
“From my point of view, people have a lot of value in their local services. They don’t really want to travel around — they like the experience of interacting with multi-different people and multi-different stores at the same site. And from an urban design and experiential [perspective], that’s what markets are doing.”
Dr Beattie suggests that we should be considering how they enhance the urban fabric, whether that’s socially, culturally, financially or environmentally, and look at how we might extend that value with purposefully designed multi-use spaces.
“It could be used as a market space, and then it could be used as other things to service the needs of those people when it’s not being used as that market.”
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Advertise with NZME.For now, these markets are among the city’s offerings — perhaps a future of greater accessibility and legitimising of these social institutions is on the way.
Auckland Night Markets
These touring late-night markets present a myriad of delicious meals in car parks and other concreted centres all over Auckland, with eight locations in total hosting lively gatherings every week. The vendors at each market shift and change often, so they almost always present the opportunity to try something new. Whether you’re looking to grab a sweet drink, homemade dessert or tasty dinner, the weekly pop-up can be a nice place for a casual drop-in with a few friends (provided you don’t mind the bustle).
Great for: Late-night eats and a buzzy atmosphere.
When and where: 5am to 11am, Monday (Kelston), Tuesday (Mt Wellington), Wednesday (Botany Town Centre), Thursday (Henderson), Friday (Papatoetoe), Saturday (Pakuranga), Sunday (Silverdale Centre, Silo Park).
Avondale Markets
The Avondale markets are a local institution, not just within the Western suburb but in the wider Auckland area. They began in 1970, with support from a local branch of the Labour Party, in the parking area of the Avondale Racecourse. Now, between 10,000 and 20,000 people make their way to the market every week, to roam the bustling aisles. There’s a huge scope of food offered up at the Avondale Markets, including fruit, vegetables, herbs, seafood, dried meats and foods, tofu, buns, noodles, honey and so much more. Hot tip: Bring your own containers and bags for your vegetables (you can get tofu with no packaging here). And bring cash too!
The market also has a hidden antique store underneath the stadium, selling furniture and other homely bits in a dusty and cramped room. It’s also been a site of creative exploration — in 2015, Whau The People, a local interdisciplinary arts organisation, set up within the bounds of the markets for a weeks-long project. The group invited market-goers to engage in live drawing, built temporary structures and installations and encouraged plenty of community connection.
There has also been an academic rallying behind the importance of the market to local communities, and its economic and cultural importance. Objectspace dedicated an exhibition to the work of HOOPLA, a social enterprise focusing on urban research and design, which has been recording the market since the early 2000s. HOOPLA relays that while the market is of course an important economic fixture in the community, its reach goes beyond. A few of those benefits include encouraging social contact and care, reducing food waste and packaging and creating access to culturally significant food.
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Advertise with NZME.HOOPLA asserts that the market is a vitally important fixture in the community, stating “in a time when the supermarket duopoly is being investigated for its tight hold on the food systems of Aotearoa, markets such as Avondale’s should be studied for the ways they provide alternative systems.”
Great for: An everything-you-need (and more) fruit and vege shop, hard-to-find staples and a little bit of street-eating.
Where: Avondale Jockey Club, 90 Ash Street, Avondale.
When: Sunday, 6am to 12pm.
Britomart Saturday Market
With such close proximity to the CBD’s public transport hub, the Britomart markets could be enough to draw you into town on the weekend. You’ll find plenty of breakfast options designed for a stroll, from crepes to pastries to Hungarian elephant ears (fried bread). There are plenty of treats on offer that might be good for a special occasion — think intricate cakes, cinnamon buns and doughnuts. Local makers sharing art, clothing, earrings, pounamu and bucket hats have also recently filled Takutai Square.
While you’re there, consider a wander around the Britomart precinct. The throughway is often home to public art installations and a few New Zealand fashion brands fill the storefronts in the nearby Pavillion. The newly opened downtown Daily Bread is just a short stroll away, as is Commercial Bay. It’s rare that busy commuters take the moment to pause in the city centre — this slow-paced market can make the square feel more serene than you’d expect.
Great for: Breakfast, pastries and a handful of fruit and vegetables.
Where: Takutai Square, Britomart.
When: Saturday, 8am to 2pm.
Catalina Bay Farmers Market
This market is one of Auckland’s most rewarding for summery days. It’s situated right on the waterfront of the West Harbour but is nicely sheltered by the surrounding hills — time seems to slow among these unhurried stalls.
Catalina Bay is a haven for artisan goods and is best suited for a leisurely morning stroll and breezy breakfast. There’s a great, almost overwhelming, array of ready-to-eat stalls in Catalina Bay. Within a 10-minutes, wander past fresh bread and pastries, ceviche and tacos, bahn mi, golzeme, waffles, bagels, dumplings and hand pies, and enjoy the symphony of scents. There are also a few stand-out pantry and fridge specialties, including hummus, olives, vinegar, honey, cheese and smoked meat.
Abdullah, the storeholder for Mediterranean Deli, has stepped in to run the family venture (selling at Catalina, among many other markets), after studying civil engineering. “The reason why I want to [come to markets] the most is because my job that I studied is mostly behind a computer. Here, you get to talk to people, meet a bunch of people and everyone’s got a story. You get to make some more friends.”
After a few visits, I feel I’ve nailed the best way to tackle Catalina’s range of options. Pull a group of hungry punters together, grab a plate each from different stalls and then wander towards the wharf. There’s a long seating area by the water, which provides a great spot for your group tasting.
Great for: A sunny stroll and breakfast by the water.
Where: Hudson Bay Road Extension, Hobsonville.
When: Saturday and Sunday, 8.30am to 2pm.
Central Flea Market
This market has been steadily growing over the last year and continues to extend the invitation to new vendors, as interest in the inner-city pop-up grows (there will be a market every Sunday until the end of 2023).
The market is perhaps most known for its stock of clothing, from both independent, one-time sellers and more established second-hand and vintage businesses (including Silly Billy Vintage and Vintage Hustle). Beyond the stacked racks, the market also features household wares (you’ll spot many a funky bowl and vase) — it feels like a rich addition to the inner-city suburbs.
After your wandering wraps up, you could also head over to Dominion Road for lunch or stop in at the independent Capitol cinema for an afternoon flick.
Great for: Vintage and secondhand clothes, kitchenware, knick-knacks and style inspiration.
Where: 170 Balmoral Road, Balmoral.
When: Sunday, 8am to 1pm.
Devonport Market
This North Shore market makes room for local makers, with pop-up storefronts hawking bags, clothing, jewellery and homeware. This market is especially pleasant on a sunny day, catching a refreshing breeze from the nearby shore.
To save a drive over the bridge (if you’re not local), you could travel from the CBD by ferry. Then take a stroll to the secondhand bookshop, the library or visit the array of eateries. Or, if you want to make the most of your time outdoors, head to King Edward Parade for a beachy view.
Great for: Meeting local makers and shopping for gifts.
Where: Devonport Ferry Terminal, 1 Queens Parade, Devonport.
When: First Saturday of the month, 9am to 2pm.
Grey Lynn Farmers Market
Nestled between cafes, bars and organic food stores on Richmond Road, this market is a great spot to meet for coffee and breakfast. The small car park of the community centre hosts a great array of food trucks, barbecue tents and other stalls serving up hot meals — it’s the place to grab breakfast with a bit of sun. Among the many offerings are crepes, kebabs, popcorn, pies, omu rice bowls, mezze servings, fresh juice and, of course, coffee. Inside the main hall and along Richmond Road, there are more artisan fridge and pantry items. Think cheese, meat, dips, eggs, kimchi, innovative vegan treats and spreads. Through to the back room (past the main desk), there’s also a room of vegetables and fruit to peruse.
There’s also a fenced playground within the community centre, should younger market wanderers need a moment to play. A band is usually set up within this lively centre too, so music pours through the hall and over the outdoor tents.
The market first opened in 2009, with the aim of bringing fresh and local produce to an inner-city location. Now, the market is guided by a few key principles, which include providing an alternative to supermarkets, closing the gap between producers and consumers, creating a community space and partnering with smaller growers and producers.
Great for: Strolling with breakfast, specialty pantry goods and fresh produce, bakery bits and dog-spotting.
Where: Grey Lynn Community Centre, 510 Richmond Road, Grey Lynn.
When: Sunday, 8:30am to 12pm.
Long Bay Village Market
A more occasional affair, the Long Bay market hosts a huge number of stalls. They range from local makers (with bags, candles and jewellery) to foodie offerings (tacos, dumplings and sweet treats) and even beauty products (skincare and soaps). Musicians are often booked to perform in the open aisles, creating a more harmonious mood.
The setting, in Long Bay Village, near the beach and green reserve, is one of the more rewarding aspects of the gathering. Extend the day by packing a picnic and — if it’s warm enough — some togs.
This weekend, among the many tents, the market will host Fankery bakery, Halloween face painting and adoptable greyhounds ready to be re-homed (a market good that requires stronger commitment than most).
Great for: Visiting an eclectic range of stalls.
Where: 55B Glenvar Ridge Road, Long Bay.
When: Last Sunday of the month, 9am to 2pm.
Matakana Village Farmers’ Market
These far-north markets have been championed as road-trip worthy for many years and were established with that aim — the village, as the site of the market, was established after the closure of an old sawmill and designed as a focal point for Matakana.
There’s a great variety of ready-to-eat meals at the market, including a creperie, pop-up pie shop, smoothies, burgers, baps, waffles and cupcakes. The specialty pantry and fridge goods include Tex Mex-style dips, locally grown macadamias, Matakana coffee, bacon, craft ciders, spirits, kombucha, honey, nut butter, chai, olive oil, deli meats and bakery goods. Of course, fresh local produce fills out many of the stores too (including flowers!).
If you’re heading up north, fill out the trip with a good stroll and wander around the village too. You could stop in at the eateries (think diner food, cafes and wineries), browse local art, pick up surf-appropriate gear or visit the boutique cinema later in the day.
Matakana’s vendors are also encouraging market-goers to bring their own bags and containers with them.
Great for: Regional pantry treats and a glamorous picnic during a weekend away.
Where: Matakana Village, 2 Matakana Valley Road.
When: Saturday, 8am to 1pm.
Ōtara Market
This South Auckland flea market was established in 1976 and has expanded over the years to encompass a wider surrounding area. It was initially set up by locals as a fundraising initiative for community groups and charities.
It has also found another bigger audience through the silver screen — in 2001, Oscar Kightley presented a detailed documentary exploring the popular markets (telling the stories of the stallholders) and through the mid-2000s it became the setting of a New Zealand-made television show called The Market, which ran on TVNZ (and later on Māori Television). It has also been credited as a musical hub, launching major businesses and artists.
On a stroll around the market, you’ll come across a huge range of goods for sale, including new and pre-loved clothing, arts and crafts, toys, shoes and plants. In terms of food, you’ll come across hāngī dishes, seafood fritters, souvlaki, pork buns, sushi and rolls. The fruit and vegetable offerings are also expansive and you’ll be able to happily complete a weekly shop for fresh produce here. Music and performances are really common at the markets, generating a welcome soundtrack around the market.
Great for: Food shopping, local crafts and a morning bite.
Where: Ōtara Town Centre.
When: Saturday, 6am to 12pm.
Parnell Farmers’ Market
This indoor-outdoor market is one of the most varied situated in the centre city, hosting a wide range of friendly vendors. There is a long list of stalls offering up breakfast, with highlights including an Austrian food truck, a vegan micro-bakery and teppanyaki, among many others. Smaller pantry specialties, like honey, coffee, sauces, muesli and olive oil, are also presented proudly by stallholders, with reliable tasting opportunities. Then, there are also a couple of stands housing fresh fruit and vegetables — not quite enough for a full weekly haul but satisfying enough for a couple of dinner party bits. Most distinctly, there is a small stall selling fresh seafood goodies (not a common sight at weekly markets anymore). Even in drizzly weather, the market has a lively vibe, scored by jaunty music and populated by plenty of patrons indulging in their weekend breakfast or hauling home their fresh produce.
Nansiri, the stallholder selling an array of (delicious) samosa, dosa and other street eats, explained the reason he shows up to the market each week. “I’m from Sri Lanka, we have a lot of outdoor food markets. People really enjoy it, there’s no barrier for people to come, not like the restaurant. Every kind of people come and eat and enjoy here. It’s good for us, financially, you know, the economic down[turn] — we don’t want big outgoings so this is good to manage. It’s very good for entertainment and happiness.”
The Village Square Trust also pops up in the city at Freyberg Place during the warmer months (as of writing it has not yet reopened).
Great for: Breakfast street-eating, treatish baked goods, a small seasonal haul or collecting knick-knacks by local makers.
Where: Jubilee Building Carpark, 545 Parnell Road.
When: Saturday, 8am to 12pm.
The Shed Collective Farmers Market
These West Auckland plant-based markets are nestled within the green and grape-growing fields of Oratia, tucked away from the road in a scenic setting. The markets range across the homely indoors and great outdoors. The centre shed often houses more ready-to-eat plates and a busy coffee counter, while the small field hosts local growers and makers (think beefy heirloom tomatoes and organic greens).
Each week, the collective shares the list of stalls they expect to host on Saturday, which means you can check in for a sneak peek of the vendors you might want to visit (I spot a familiar vegan doughnut maker who is a market regular).
These markets make for an ideal picnicking setting in good weather, though it is a rain-or-shine event. With music playing, dogs roaming and, hopefully, the sun shining, you wouldn’t know you’re only 25 minutes from the centre city.
You might also want to stop in and gawk at the oddities in the Just Plane Interesting stalls near the market.
Great for: A vegan-friendly brunch, seasonal produce and hard-to-find plant-based pantry goods.
Where: 99 Parrs Cross Road, Oratia.
When: Saturday, 8:30am to 12pm.
Titirangi Village Market
Held in the car park of the local public library and hall, the Titirangi market is a nice addition to a scheduled village visit. It’s tucked away in a sheltered area of the West Auckland suburb and hosts plenty of makers, with a few food and drinks stalls as well.
It’s in really close proximity to a few Titirangi gems, including the Lopdell House, Te Uru (the art gallery) and some really lovely cafes (check out the Crafty Baker for breakfast and coffee beforehand). If you’re not a local and you’re planning a weekend trip westwards, add this to the itinerary.
Great for: Gifts by local makers and an extra stop for a village visit.
Where: 500 South Titirangi Road, Titirangi.
When: Last Sunday of the month, 10am to 2pm.
