The Beauty In Starting Over: Three Entrepreneurs On Why They Rebranded In 2024

For these successful brand founders, there’s power in the pivot.

Developing and maintaining a business is one of the most challenging endeavours for entrepreneurs wanting to make a name for themselves in the beauty space.

Even more so if they’re located at the bottom of the world.

But difficult as it may be to get a leg up in the industry, an increasing number of brand founders are going back to ground by reimagining their offering entirely – whether that’s through new packaging, formulation or positioning within the market.

Below, Ashleigh Cometti speaks to three New Zealand beauty brand founders who have overhauled their brand offering in 2024 – from the island-based beauty brand delivering therapeutic-grade skincare into the pharmacy channel, to the haircare founder whose legal battle inspired her to develop a new category of hair and scalp wellness.

Tama Toki, Aotea

Anyone whose experienced inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or dermatitis can attest to the frustration of being prescribed steroid-based creams as a short-term fix.

But as of last month, therapeutic skincare brand Aotea made waves in the industry when it relaunched its hero Kawakawa Balm into the New Zealand pharmacy channel as a Class 1 medical device.

“The decision to enter the pharmacy category with this product stemmed from its growing popularity and market penetration, combined with the research we have undertaken with regard to its efficacy to heal inflammation of the skin,” Tama says.

“We wanted to make it even more accessible and place it in as many hands, handbags, and homes as possible. The balm’s versatility and wide applicability make it suitable for various uses, so expanding into pharmacies felt like a natural step to reach more people.”

Hailing from the idyllic shores of Aotea (Great Barrier Island), the inspiration for the range stems from Tama’s upbringing there, where he says his immersion in Te Taha Māori and Mātauranga Māori saw him develop a deeper understanding of native plants like kawakawa, kūmarahou, harakeke, and mānuka and their medicinal benefits.

Rather than reformulate, Tama made the decision to stay the course and keep Aotea’s Kawakawa Balm formula the same. Instead, the balm’s new sleek silver packaging is an homage to the research and development his team has invested into understanding the plant’s healing properties.

“The updated design reflects the clinical rigour behind the balm, including its concentration of B-triketones from mānuka oil and the plant agent Dyangambin, both of which contribute to its therapeutic effectiveness,” Tama says.

“This new look is a nod to the science-backed efficacy of the kawakawa balm while preserving the formula that our customers know and trust.”

Reflecting on repositioning the brand he first launched to market in 2017, Tama says the year-long rebranding process was an exercise in authenticity – recognising the disconnect between how a product looks and what it represents.

Driven by talented in-house designer Jamie Wesley-Brown, Aotea’s new look borrows inspiration from 1970s-style pharmacy packaging, harking back to designers Helmut Schmid and Dieter Rams.

“This meant we needed to evolve from a less refined look to one that visually communicates the scientific research behind our products, while also preserving a high-end, boutique feel.”

The new look packaging will roll out across the entire range from November, cementing the premium aesthetic that mirrors Aotea’s in-house craftsmanship.

Next year is already shaping up to be a busy one for Tama and his team, who are keen to explore the therapeutic uses and healing capacity of native brown seaweed (ecklonia) growing at their marine farm on Aotea.

Plans are also in place to increase Aotea’s presence in pharmacies with a biopharmacy product range.

“Ultimately, we hope our legacy will reflect a blend of sustainability, Māori values, and purveyors of products that help people, positioning us as a market leader in fields where Aotea – and New Zealand – can excel,” he says.

“We aim to build a thriving, aspirational business that not only succeeds commercially but also stands as a testament to our values and vision for a sustainable future.”

Aotea Kawakawa Balm is available from selected pharmacies nationwide or from Aoteamade.co.nz.

Chloe Zara Munro, CZE Hair

As she lay awake in bed one night, suffering with a serious case of pregnancy insomnia, Chloe Zara Munro read an email that would change the course of her career.

It was from her lawyer – a notice of opposition from a major global retailer against the Chloe Zara Hair trademark. The argument was that the trademark was too similar to theirs, something the retailer perceived as risking confusion or deception between the two haircare brands.

Chloe’s stomach dropped – it had been two years since she first introduced her eponymous scalp and haircare line to the New Zealand market in 2020, and she was months away from giving birth to her second child.

“I vividly remember reading this email in the middle of the night and feeling a gut-wrenching sense of uncertainty,” she recalls.

“Although the opposing company hadn’t demonstrated any use or reputation in haircare in New Zealand, we realised they could still challenge our brand in global markets.”

Set on defending the brand they’d spent years building, Chloe and her husband Scott started the lengthy legal process. It was November 2022; they were tied up in countless meetings and Zoom calls to try to secure a win in their trademark battle.

While their legal team was confident, a win was never guaranteed, and in 2023 Chloe and Scott decided to use this difficult situation as a catalyst for positive change – revoking their New Zealand trademark and rebranding Chloe Zara Hair to CZE.

“Determined to push forward, we embraced the rebrand with a vision of coming back stronger – and I truly believe we have,” she says.

Chloe says this pivotal moment in her business journey has had a significant impact on herself and Scott both personally and professionally – especially with two young children in tow.

Rather than feel defeated, Chloe says, she shifted her mindset around the legal proceedings – opportunity not oppression – offering her the chance to develop a more robust brand and solidify her legacy.

“I hope that by watching us work hard and pursue our dreams, my two boys will see the value of resilience and commitment and that one day they’ll feel proud of what we’ve created together.”

Besides its new moniker, Chloe says this evolution ushers in a new chapter for her brand – one that stays true to her mission of delivering ultra-nourishing hair and scalp care in line with the sophisticated look and feel she worked so hard to establish.

As such, Chloe has positioned CZE under a new haircare category: Trico-Dermis Beauty.

Trico-Dermis Beauty combines trichology, or the science of hair structure and function, with dermis care targeted at the skin’s deeper layers, promising a twofold take on hair and scalp wellness.

“This approach is rooted in core skincare values, where we harness ingredients commonly used in skincare and rigorously assess their benefits to boost the health of both scalp and hair,” Chloe says.

“Each CZE Hair product is designed to be simple to use and easy to love, delivering stunning results for everyone, from haircare newbies to seasoned self-stylers.”

The first collection to launch under CZE is Refine, a three-strong scalp and haircare range designed to suit the needs of fine or thinning hair.

This includes the Refine Wash and Refine Condition, alongside the Refine Scalp Serum – the hero product in the range which is rooted in Chloe’s belief that strong hair starts with a well-nourished scalp.

It cocktails hyaluronic acid for hydration and rosemary extract to boost circulation, to help reduce hair loss or shedding during postpartum, times of stress, or for those wanting fuller tresses.

“This collection is especially personal to me, having experienced postpartum hair loss myself. I wanted to create a range that is not only effective but also safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding,” Chloe says.

To anyone facing similar circumstances around trademarks or branding, Chloe advises seeking legal counsel early in the process and speaking to those who have also been through it.

“It’s incredibly helpful to connect with other founders and creators, learning from their experiences can be invaluable,” she says.

“New Zealand has a remarkable community of entrepreneurs, and many are open to offering guidance and support. Don’t hesitate to reach out; most will be willing to lend a listening ear and share their knowledge.”

CZE Hair launches today (November 6) from selected independent retailers or Czehair.com.

Sophia Mantell, Daily

If you’re clued up about local skincare brands, there’s a chance you might recognise the bottle green tubes that once lined the shelves at Father Rabbit.

Coupling distinctive packaging with innovative skin formulas, Daily Wellness quickly cemented its position in the premium skincare space.

Sophia’s lightbulb moment for the brand came while she was living in Bali in 2017. After taking stock of her busy lifestyle as a working mum to three kids, she dived headfirst into the world of wellness, dreaming up a brand focused on both the internal and external.

After returning to New Zealand and weathering Covid-19 lockdowns, Sophia launched Daily Wellness – a line of skincare and supplements stocked at premium retailers including Father Rabbit.

Products homed in on high-potency ingredients that were naturally derived and efficacious and were priced as such – around $90 for a serum.

But over time, Sophia learned that one of the most important pillars in her business was accessibility.

“Products weren’t accessible to everyone, and that to me, wasn’t good enough,” she says.

“I went on an interesting journey for about two years – new product development, packaging, understanding new channels to market – and I decided that I wanted to be available through the grocery channel and at a lower price point.”

But reimagining an entire product line at a lower price point wasn’t without its challenges – especially when Sophia’s top priorities included maintaining both product efficacy and its luxurious look and feel.

The rebrand involved Sophia separating her range in two – Daily for her skincare only, and Daily Wellness, the supplement arm of the business which is relaunching soon.

In August, Daily launched into New World with four SKUs, a tight edit of products that Sophia says covers everyday skincare needs.

A month later, Daily was one of the first brands to be ranged in The Warehouse’s new Beauty Zone, a new in-store beauty offering set to be rolled out across the top 20 stores across the motu.

“Daily is a brand that’s about taking care of yourself and having it accessible without sacrificing luxury and efficacy,” Sophia says.

Despite the shift in price point and retail channel, Sophia is quick to explain that the investment required to enter FMCG is still significant.

“The barrier to entry is huge – there’s a real lack of independent brands in grocery,” she says, adding she believes the main driver for corporate brands in FMCG is revenue, not formulation.

“That to me is white space – the category is oversaturated with big corporates who are putting out products that are probably not that effective. There was an available space here for me to provide a product that is efficacious and beautiful. We’ve gone wide in terms of distribution, but I take the hit a bit on profit.

“If I have to give up some profit to get there, then that’s worth it. Because that will build a brand where people feel included and want to share that with their closest friends. I want to provide products that women need.”

What can skincare buffs expect to see from Daily’s reimagined offering? A suite of buzzworthy skincare ingredients, including of-the-moment ingredient ceramides, depigmentation active melanostatine and soothing arnica.

But it’s melanostatine that has Sophia most excited – the wonder ingredient can be found in Daily’s Brighten and Boost Day Cream – which is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of melasma and pigmentation.

Four products are just the beginning, and Sophia says a coterie of fresh innovations are in the pipeline for early 2025, helping to round out Daily’s offering and usher in a new wave of loyal consumers in the supermarket aisle.

Daily is available from New World supermarkets and selected Warehouse stores nationwide, or Wearedaily.co.nz.

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