Autumn is a season of constant temperature flux. From crispy-cool mornings with frost on the ground to sun-drenched afternoons calling for windows wide open, it’s no surprise it’s also the season when our skin can start to go haywire.
For anyone with an already compromised skin barrier, now is the
The skin barrier consists of the top three layers of the skin, which hold moisture and hydration. Just below the skin’s surface, amino acid, lactic acid, ceramides and other lipids are all working together to seal moisture into the epidermis (the outermost layer of skin) and keep skin hydrated, while also protecting against environmental aggressors such as wind, sun, pollution and allergens. The skin barrier is the body’s first line of defence against the environment, so it’s essential we give it everything it needs to function well.
A microclimate shift is one of the key things that can cause problems with your skin barrier, says Dr Nancy Ilaya, scientific director at Kiehl’s in New York. “When you go outside after being indoors in extreme heat, such as in the middle of winter, or extreme air conditioning, such as the middle of a hot summer, that can actually cause a massive swing in your skin barrier function,” she explains.
“It can increase the transepidermal water loss to lead to a dry and tight feeling, or it could be the opposite; it could cause you to be oily to adjust between moving between those two [temperatures]. Humidity can also affect the way the skin barrier reacts to the environment. Then we have things such as exposure to pollutants and allergens, which physically irritate the barrier and cause redness and sensitivity.”
If you’ve started noticing some discomfort in your skin with the onset of the cooler weather, a change in texture, more breakouts, or you know you’re prone to reactive skin in the winter, get ready to give your skin barrier some love. Keeping on top of your water intake is crucial (especially if you work in an air-conditioned office) but making sure you’re using the right products on your skin is going to make a big difference too.
Squalane and glycerin are key ingredients to look for in your skincare as well as glycoproteins, which help bind skin cells together and protect against moisture loss. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream contains squalane, glycerin and glacial glycoprotein, a compound that can be found deep in Antarctic glaciers and is especially beneficial for protecting skin against the drying effects of cool air.
Glycerin is a humectant, which means it’s going to hold moisture in the skin, says Melbourne-based dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald. “It’s really important to keep those cells plumped because if you’ve got a dry environment, the water is going to come out of the cell into the surrounding environment, which we don’t want. If we keep the moisture content in there, it’s going to keep the cells plump,” she explains.
Squalane is the ingredient that keeps skin soft, supple and well moisturised without feeling greasy — so it’s ideal for dry and oily skin types alike. Niacinamide is another addition to your skincare which can help improve the skin barrier as well as reduce inflammation, redness and irritation associated with acne.
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Advertise with NZME.“Skin barrier protection is really important for making your skin look good and preventing any inflammatory problems,” says McDonald. “Rosacea can be triggered by a breakdown of the skin barrier, dermatitis, sensitive skin, even premature ageing. Inflammation in the skin, which comes from an impaired barrier, drives premature ageing — so we don’t want inflammation. We want hydration, we want our skin to glow, and really the barrier is what it’s all about.”
Ensure you’re using a gentle cleanser which isn’t going to strip the skin of its natural oils and don’t be afraid to layer on your skin barrier cream as often as you need throughout the day, especially when skin is feeling dry, sensitive or inflamed.
During times of inflammation, McDonald recommends paring back your skincare routine, which means avoiding actives such as retinol and vitamin A derivatives and any exfoliating acids, and be sure to use an SPF that you know agrees with your skin. She also suggests avoiding products that contain fragrances.
“Fragrances are a cause of problems when you’ve got an impaired barrier, far more than people realise,” she explains. “They can cause allergies, but they can also cause an irritant reaction very easily.”
With the right products and ingredients that focus on reducing transepidermal water loss, Ilaya says improvement in the skin barrier can be seen quickly, in as little as 15 minutes. Over the course of continued use of products dedicated to barrier repair, you’ll notice your skin will be more resilient against any microclimate shifts, or sudden swings in temperature when going inside and out.
Your skin barrier saviours
