Her eponymous skincare line has illuminated beauty routines since 2019. Now, Emma Lewisham has relaunched one of the first products she formulated – a mineral-based SPF. She shares the eight-year-long journey with Ashleigh Cometti.
There’s good reason to be fussy when it comes to shopping for a facial sunscreen, especially
Does it offer broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays? Sit well under makeup? Feel comfortable to apply (read: not thick and greasy, leaving a white cast in its wake)? Keep pores clear in balmy summer climes?
Emma Lewisham launched its Skin Shield SPF 30 during the New Zealand brand’s launch party back in 2019. As founder of the eponymous brand, Emma recalls the product’s launch as “groundbreaking” – saying it disrupted the local market as the first 100% natural SPF that promised “minimal whiteness”.
But consumers noted that while it felt luxurious in texture, a pale sheen remained.
Emma maintains there were certain technological and scientific limitations that came with formulating a 100% natural, zinc oxide-based sunscreen – and a white cast was just one of them.
“I personally read our customer feedback and made it my mission to improve the formulation while ensuring it maintained a luxurious and a beautiful sensory experience, as well as meeting rigorous SPF testing standards,” she says.
“With our original Skin Shield SPF 30, achieving an SPF 30 level required at least 20% Zinc Oxide and we couldn’t find enough of a way to mitigate the whiteness.”
Emma says that rather than frame this as a failure, she and her team got to work.
In the years following Skin Shield’s release, Emma says “not a single week has gone by without someone on our team working to improve our SPF”.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.That’s one week, every year, for eight years.
Emma says formulating an SPF with natural and mineral ingredients has been one of the hardest chemical equations she’s ever had to crack while steering her eponymous skincare brand.
She worked with global experts (including those who helped write the global SPF ISO standards) to formulate a new high-performance, natural sunscreen with 20% zinc oxide.
What culminated was the new Emma Lewisham Sunceutical Mineral SPF 50 Face Crème, $85, a mineral-based SPF 50 that boasts skincare benefits and no white cast, which landed on shelves on Boxing Day in 2024.
The challenge now is to keep the shelves stocked – her team recently disclosed that production has been fast-tracked to keep up with the demand.
“The response from our community has been incredible. I’ve personally connected with every customer who’s purchased the product directly from us so far to gather their feedback, which has been overwhelmingly positive,” Emma says.
Emma says the eight-year journey to launching the Sunceutical Mineral SPF 50 Face Crème has embedded fresh energy into the brand.
“I’ve also learned the power of focusing on your values and staying true to what you believe in. When you stay committed to producing outstanding work, lead with integrity, and have a clear purpose, everything else falls into place,” she says.
“It’s a reminder that doing the right thing and trusting the process pays off, and that’s something we’ll carry into 2025 with confidence and excitement.”
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Review: Sunceutical Mineral SPF 50 Face Crème, tried and tested
The claim: Looks like suncare, performs like skincare
Since its inception, Emma Lewisham’s skincare line has sat in the gap between what’s functional and what feels luxurious – and the Sunceutical Mineral SPF 50 Face Crème is no different.
It promises advanced sun protection, yes, but also subs into routines as an efficacious skincare treatment: 65% of the premium ingredients on the INCI list fall into the skincare camp. Think peptides to nourish and hydrate, combined with niacinamide to brighten.
“Our SPF 50 Mineral Face Crème isn’t just about shielding your skin from UV, it’s a powerful skincare treatment in itself,” Emma says.
“I wanted the formula to go beyond the functional to provide visible skin benefits with every use. Its lightweight, sheer texture makes it incredibly comfortable and breathable. It’s not just about protection, it’s about caring for your skin, day in and day out.”
Our verdict: The luxurious creme texture smooths on easily and absorbs quickly, priming skin for makeup application. It’s not greasy nor does it leave skin with an unnatural sheen, even when layered over moisturiser. My skin is quick to tell me if it does or doesn’t like a product (I’m blessed with oily skin which can quickly turn acneic). After six weeks of continuous use, Emma Lewisham’s SPF hasn’t broken me out like most sunscreens tend to when I first make the switch.
The claim: Adheres to sunscreen regulations enforced by the TGA and FDA
Sunscreen regulations are much stricter than they used to be (new regulations came into effect in 2023) rendering the process of launching a broad spectrum offering arduous to say the least.
Emma Lewisham Sunceutical Face Crème SPF 50 is classified as a medical grade product, as certified by both the TGA (Australia) and FDA (USA).
“Undergoing the FDA and TGA certification is an incredibly rigorous and complex process, but is essential to meeting the stringent standards required for global approval,” Emma says.
“This journey reflects our unwavering commitment to delivering a product that not only meets but exceeds expectations and balances efficacy with the needs of our customers.”
Our verdict: I’m a stickler for daily sunscreen application (I never use anything less than SPF 50) which automatically gives Emma Lewisham’s newbie a tick in my books. I can’t comment on its performance in direct sunlight (I always don a hat during peak sun hours) but knowing that this product has been endorsed for sale in both local and international markets reassured me I was giving my skin the best possible protection against UVA and UVB rays.
The claim: Suitable for all skin tones
While the original Skin Shield promised SPF 30 protection, Emma sought to increase a higher level of protection by formulating her new offering with SPF 50. To do so called for an increased level of zinc oxide, which naturally increases a product’s whiteness – hello, white cast.
The challenge was to keep this same high level of sun protection, while eliminating the whitening effect that’s especially obvious on deep complexions.
“We refused to compromise on performance or experience. For me, sunscreen isn’t just a functional product, it should feel luxurious and joyful to use,” Emma says.
“It’s not just protection, it’s advanced skincare elevated with SPF 50 benefits.”
Our verdict: The sunscreen boasts a subtle pink tint, sinking seamlessly into skin and virtually imperceptible on my warm ivory skin tone. But the formula isn’t just suited to those on the fairer end of the spectrum, with the rigorous testing phase involving trialling the product on myriad skin tones to ensure no white cast was left behind.
It’s also been endorsed on Instagram by Olympic athlete and wahine Māori Zoe Hobbs, and former Gritty Pretty editor, Eleanor Pendleton.
The claim: Prices remain the same as original product
When a brand founder reformulates an existing product, often the new technology contained within, or investment required to pivot, comes with a hefty price increase.
Emma Lewisham’s original Skin Shield SPF 30 was priced at $85, and her sunscreen newbie is the same.
“Staying true to the original pricing was a deliberate decision, despite the significant investment involved in FDA and TGA certifications and dedicating eight years to research and development,” Emma says.
“From the beginning, our vision has been about creating luxury, high-performance skincare that remains accessible without compromising on quality or values. Keeping the price consistent ensures that more people can benefit from the innovation and care we’ve poured into our newest SPF 50 products.”
Our verdict: In Aotearoa, sunscreens can set you back anywhere between $20-$120 depending on the ingredients, branding and market positioning. This puts Emma Lewisham’s somewhere roughly in the middle – an investment, yes, but certainly not the most expensive sunscreen out there. The fact that it bridges gap between sunscreen and skincare is reason enough to be happy to shell out $85, let alone when you learn about the years of research that was poured into the product to get it out to market.
Emma’s top tip
“I recommend applying your SPF as the last step in your morning skincare routine, applying liberally to the skin 20 minutes before sun exposure. For the Emma Lewisham Sunceutical Mineral SPF 50 Face Crème, about 1-1.5 pumps of the product should be perfect. I then suggest reapplying every two hours or more frequently if you’re perspiring, swimming or towelling dry,” Emma says.
More beauty
Expert-approved shopping guides, new skincare trends to try, plus industry players to know.
The Best Spa Treatments Around New Zealand To Keep That Holiday Feeling Going In 2025. From Northland to Queenstown, we’ve uncovered the top spa treatments outside of Auckland worth trying this year.
A Makeup Artist’s Guide To The Best Makeup Brushes To Buy And How To Use Them. Looking to refresh your stash of makeup brushes? Celebrity makeup artist Rae Morris shares her picks of the best brushes to add to your kit.
From Fashion To Fake Tan: How Content Creator Mary Outram Is Shaking Up The Gradual Tanning Game. New tanning brand Bonnie is delivering safe, sunless tanning options to those with even the most sensitive skin types.
Is Hypochlorous Acid The New Skincare Staple? There’s a much-hyped new ingredient competing for attention in the beauty sphere. Lucy Slight looks at what’s behind the hypochlorous fuss.
