Our first impressions of the latest perfumes from Lela Jacobs, Gloria and Zambesi.

Fragrances are personal affairs and finding the right scent that matches your body chemistry, personal style and day-to-day life often requires a little patience and plenty of trial and error.

Whether you prefer to spritz or dab on a scent, or if you like to separate your fragrance of choice between day and night, the multitude of international luxury fragrances on the market are a dime a dozen. Recently, we’ve seen local fashion houses extend their offering to the realm of scent, with three new releases piquing our interest from Lela Jacobs, Gloria and Zambesi.

Viva’s resident noses, beauty editor Ashleigh Cometti and creative and fashion director Dan Ahwa, put these new olfactory compositions to the test.

Oud Elixir Daddy by Lela Jacobs

Created in collaboration with Nathan Taare of OfBODY.

The designs of Lela Jacobs focus on slower production runs with considered attention to the environment, with a strong focus on beautiful oversized silhouettes in the form of genderless trousers, tunics and dresses in organic materials. Her new fragrance release includes notes of Sichuan peppercorn, wet rocks, oud Assafi, horse saddles, suede and ambergris. Throwback: Lela Jacobs’ favourite things.

Ashleigh

Would I wear it? It’s slightly too savoury for me, but I can imagine one of my oud-loving friends or my husband suiting it down to the ground.

Dan

First impressions: As a pure essence, I love the way you can apply this with a glass stick, the ritual of this feels nostalgic. A much more focused application means I can focus on applying the scent to key areas like my neck and wrist. I’m personally drawn to Oud-infused scents, and am pleasantly surprised by how this ambiguous smell lingers. As Ash says, there’s a strong earthy quality about this with a smell that reminds you of worn-in leather and suede. A highly personal smell that is perfect for someone with a sophisticated palette. I can imagine someone with a utilitarian wardrobe wearing this scent well, someone who loves denim and leather. Presentation-wise, the fragrance comes packaged in Lela’s bespoke silk collars, which adds to the experience.

Would I wear it? Because it’s on the muskier side I would wear this but only sparingly as it’s super strong. I could also see myself using this as an essence to lull me into slumber at bedtime.

Gloria extrait de parfum

Created in collaboration with Tiffany Jeans of Curionoir.

Tāmaki Makaurau-based fashion designer Kristine Crabb of Gloria has explored fragrance in the past through her longstanding collaboration with perfumer Tiffany Jeans and her fragrance label Curio Noir. This time around, the latest release includes notes of jasmine, freesia, mimosa, camelia, lily of the valley, clove bud, sandalwood and ambergris. She is known for her voluminous, dreamy silk dresses and this fragrance is the perfect complement to the designer’s whimsical aesthetic.

Ashleigh

Would I wear it? Absolutely. I have a longstanding love affair with white florals and Gloria certainly satisfies the brief.

Dan

First impressions: Interestingly, when you smell this for the first time, you can easily see any of Kristine Crabb’s cult following sporting this wafting past in one of the designer’s silky voluminous dresses. My preference for woody notes draws me immediately to the notes of sandalwood and ambergris (the latter one of my favourite smells). Like a wild-flower garden after a spring shower, this is a really beautifully constructed scent that truly evokes the spirit and irreverence of the brand well.

Would I wear it? I do like an ambiguous fragrance but this is possibly slightly on the sweeter side for me to be able to pull off with my personal style.

1979 by Zambesi

Created in collaboration with The Virtue.

For over four decades, the iconic local fashion label has redefined what fashion in New Zealand is. Known for its dark, poetic sensibility, the Zambesi founder Liz Findlay recently spoke in detail with Viva about her first fragrance release, which includes notes of bitter almond and bergamot, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver and leather.

Dan

First impressions: Bergamot is another personal scent favourite of mine and the inclusion of it in this debut fragrance from the local iconic brand is really beautiful. It’s the sort of smell that holds a sense of mana to it. It lingers but in a way that isn’t overwhelming. Much like the ethos of the brand, it has a mystery to it that doesn’t give everything away which suits me well, and on first smell, I was drawn to this immediately.

Would I wear it? Yes. Not since Ingrid Starne’s Vetevyr Bergamot have I been seduced so easily by a local fragrance. For someone who wears a lot of tailoring, this is a crisp scent that cuts through nicely. The smell of this is so self-assured it’s the type of confidence booster to help you keep moving during the day.

Ashleigh

First impressions: Genderless scents abound, and Zambesi’s offering transcends gender norms with its slightly metallic, nuanced parfum. It smells different each time you sniff it, first, you get struck with the juicy citrussy note of bergamot, other times it’s the vanilla that captures your attention, or the warm, spicy sweetness of leather – proving that in the same way that Zambesi continues to evolve, so too, does its scent. Inherently bold, these fragrance notes are powerful when used in isolation, yet manage to strike a harmonious balance here – further evoking the power and magnetism of the Zambesi brand.

Would I wear it? I’d reach for this scent if bound for dinner or drinks after dark. It’s the kind of scent you could imagine swirling out of a bustling wine bar on a Saturday night.

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