Is Your Makeup Ageing You? Two Experts Share How To Avoid It Settling Into Fine Lines

These are the seven makeup mistakes the experts say add years to your face.

It sounds simple: apply makeup for skin that appears smoother, more even-toned and radiant-looking.

But is it always that straightforward? Not really, especially if your face has multiple different skin tones, or your memories have manifested on your face in the form of smile lines or crow’s feet.

At Viva, we’ve always maintained that ageing is a blessing (not a given), but if you’re finding your makeup no longer sits as seamlessly on your skin as it once did, there are things you can do to help.

According to makeup artist Wayne Goss, who has amassed four million followers on YouTube, using the wrong formulas or application techniques can add up to a decade to our face.

“The majority of us will be using makeup to help improve how we look, or even help cover up some of the wrinkles we’ve gained over the years,” he says.

“However, due to some mistakes, the makeup that we’re wearing could actually be doing the opposite effect, and could potentially be adding not just one or two, but up to 10 years to our face.”

Below, we quizzed Wayne and freelance makeup artist Grayson Coutts for the most common makeup mistakes that add years.

Powdered products serve a purpose, to set liquid or cream formulas and prevent them from sliding off your face by lunchtime. They’re especially helpful in peak summer to extend the lifespan of makeup on combination or oily skin types.

However, being a little too heavy-handed can be counter-intuitive on mature skin types, Grayson says. “Using too much, especially on mature skin, can settle into fine lines and create a cake-y appearance that highlights lines and texture,” he says. “Less is more — opt for a lighter amount of a very finely milled translucent powder like the By Terry Hyaluronic Hydra-Powder 8HA, $100.”

Other excellent options include the Aleph Beauty Prep/Finish Powder, $72, which boasts a subtle blurring effect, and the Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder, $110, to mattify skin without emphasising fine lines.

2. Skipping primer

“Mature skin can benefit immensely from a good primer,” Grayson says, adding that skipping this step can lead to makeup clinging to dry patches or settling into wrinkles, which emphasises skin texture instead of smoothing and blurring it out.

Wayne agrees, adding that the right primer will act as a barrier between skin and makeup to ensure it stays in all the right places all day.

For hydrating options, consider Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Hydrating Primer, $93, which imparts a luminous glow to skin for up to 48 hours, or the Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base, $124, a hybrid moisturiser and primer in one to hydrate and soften skin while preparing it for the makeup steps to follow.

Speaking of hydration, as important as your makeup itself is the skincare that comes before it.

As we age, our skin becomes naturally more dry, which makes selecting skincare with ultra-hydrating ingredients even more important.

“A well-prepped, hydrated canvas will always result in a more flawless and youthful finish,” Grayson says.

Look out for skincare formulas brimming with hardworking hydrators like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, glycerin and vitamin E to attract moisture to the skin and keep it there, helping to prevent trans-epidermal water loss and fortifying the natural skin barrier.

“Before you start applying anything to your face, ensure that you’ve applied a heavy moisturiser to ensure your skin stays hydrated,” Wayne adds.

Try Raaie Cocoon Ceramide Cream, $145, which plumps and hydrates skin with a cocktail of seven different ceramides, or CeraVe Moisturising Cream, $28, which highlights both ceramides and hyaluronic acid for 24-hour hydration.

4. Using the wrong formulas

If our recent beauty trend report is anything to go by, too-thick, too-matte base makeup is out, while lightly blurred “cloud” makeup is in.

Grayson says heavy matte foundation formulas are known to exacerbate dryness and emphasise wrinkles, meaning they’re not all that kind to mature skin.

“Instead, go for a lightweight, hydrating foundation that offers a more natural finish, enhancing your skin’s luminosity,” he says.

Be on the lookout for cream-based concealers over powders, for their natural, dewy finish and seamless ability to blend into skin, Grayson recommends.

“I recommend using liquid or cream blushes, bronzers, and highlighters as they give the skin a more youthful, luminous appearance compared to their powdered counterparts,” he says.

“If you want to avoid highlighting fine lines and texture, steer clear of anything with glitter or too much shimmer as these will highlight problem areas. Instead opt for cream formulas that either don’t contain shimmer or the shimmer particles are extremely fine.”

As far as concealers go, Grayson advises using them sparingly to increase the level of coverage only in areas where you feel you need more.

For a wallet-friendly option, Viva loves Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Eraser Multi-Use Concealer, $24, which promises crease-resistant coverage, or Kosas Revealer Concealer, $56, to hydrate and conceal in one fell swoop.

5. Neglecting eyebrows

One must never underestimate the power of eyebrows, and as we age brow hairs can become sparse and thin, meaning they need a little help to appear full and fluffy once more.

Failing to fill them in can make the face look less defined, Grayson says, but adds it’s a very fine line between too thin and too dark brows.

“However, overfilling with harsh dark lines can look very unflattering,” he says. “The key is to use soft, feathery strokes in an upward motion to mimic the look of natural hairs.”

Try it with the new Glossier Boy Brow Arch, $50, a pomade-based brow pencil that features an ultra-precise tip to create hair-like flicks and fill in sparse areas.

6. Wearing dark lipstick without definition

Deep shades like mauve, burgundy, ruby and terracotta are rich and comforting hues to embrace in the cooler months, but Grayson recommends treading carefully when applying dark lipstick.

“Dark lipstick can make lips look smaller, and if it bleeds out into lines around the mouth or smudges it can be quite obvious,” he says.

“To avoid this, use a lip liner to define the shape, and consider using a slightly lighter, more hydrating lipstick, tinted lip balm, or gloss for a more youthful look.”

Discover this winning combination: line lips with M.A.C Lip Pencil in Chicory, layered with M.A.C Powderkiss Velvet Blur Lipstick in Devoted to Chilli. Find them twinned in M.A.C’s Spicy Brick Lip Duo, $102.

Follow the proper prep steps

Now that we’ve unpacked the must-nots, what about the must-dos?

For Grayson, adhering to the proper prep steps will always guarantee a smooth finish on mature skin types.

As mentioned above, primer is a must, and Grayson loves the hydrating, smoothing formula of the Shiseido Revitalessence Skin Glow Primer, $83. “It creates a perfect canvas by smoothing the skin’s surface and ensuring the makeup glides on beautifully,” he says.

Next, a rice grain-sized amount of nourishing eye cream under eyes helps hydrate the area and reduce the appearance of puffiness and dark circles, Grayson says. His pick is the Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream, $237, which is specifically geared towards those with ageing skin.

A cosseting lip balm helps smooth and nourish lips, preparing them for lipstick to follow.

“A hydrating balm like Aesop Cedar & Citrus Lip Salve, $29, at the start of your makeup to ensure when you apply lipstick later it goes on smoothly and looks better for longer,” Grayson says.

Find the right hue for you

“Soft, warm tones are incredibly flattering on mature skin,” Grayson says.

Think soft rose or peach shades for blush, which help to lend a natural flush of colour to cheeks and brings life to the complexion, he says.

For eyes, consider subtle taupes, warm browns, muted espressos or dusty pinks. “These work beautifully at enhancing the eyes without being too harsh,” Grayson says.

If your modus operandi is to appear demure or cutesy, look no further than a pink-toned lipstick to brighten the face and given the illusion of fuller lips.

Try Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush in Chouchette, $90, or Hermès Rose Hermès Silky Blush Powder in 54 Rose Nuit, $139.

Get the look

“When it comes to makeup, especially for mature skin, the key is to enhance your natural beauty rather than masking it. And remember, there are no rules, nothing is off limits, and makeup should be fun! Don’t be afraid to experiment with colours and techniques that make you feel confident and beautiful and help you achieve what you want to,” Grayson says.

Follow his step-by-step guide for this fresh, daytime look he loves to create on mature skin:

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