How To Get Rid Of Dandruff, According To A Hairstylist With Two Decades In The Know

Fed up with flakiness? A hair expert shares her hot tips on the best way to treat it.

Of all the conditions that can affect your hair and scalp – think oiliness, frizz and flyaways – dandruff is easily one of the most frustrating.

Characterised by an itchy, irritated scalp and visible flakes of skin, dandruff can be caused by a multitude of factors, meaning it’s often tricky to get to the root cause.

Tricky, but not impossible, says Melissa Bowden Brooks, founder of MB Hair salon, creator of BB Foils and member of the Ghd Style Team.

“Dandruff can be confused with other conditions like scalp dryness (which causes flaking due to lack of moisture) and minor shedding (which is normal hair fall, but can look similar to dandruff flakes),” she says.

“I suppose the best way to differentiate these is: dandruff is often linked to scalp irritation, while dryness is more about moisture imbalance.”

Below, the hairstylist with 20 years’ experience in the local hair industry shares her hot tips with Viva beauty editor Ashleigh Cometti on how to bid farewell to flakes and foster a healthy scalp microbiome.

ASHLEIGH COMETTI: What are some of the primary causes of dandruff? Can it be confused with other conditions like scalp dryness or minor shedding?

AC: What are some of the key ingredients to look out for when shopping for shampoos said to treat dandruff? Do you have any favourite over-the-counter shampoos you recommend to clients before they go down the prescription route?

MBB: I use O&M in salon, the whole range is clean and focuses on hair and scalp health. As a hairstylist, I would still suggest purchasing a professional product. Some ingredients you can look for are:

I would recommend using the O&M Original Detox Shampoo and Conditioner, but of course there are definitely times when a prescription route is needed.

AC: How often should people who have dandruff wash their hair? Is it true that over-washing hair can exacerbate symptoms?

MBB: Two to three times a week will help control flaking and avoid scalp irritation. Overwashing can strip the scalp of natural oils, potentially worsening dryness and increasing irritation. However, regular washing with the right shampoo (containing moisturising or purifying ingredients) will help manage dandruff.

AC: What are some of your go-to hair oils or treatments to deeply nourish a flaky or itchy scalp?

MBB: I love oils, my favourites would be:

In the salon, scalp massages with nourishing oils and treatments can help stimulate the scalp and provide moisture. CZE Hair offers in-salon scalp treatments in some of their stockist salons, and a DIY kit to take home.

AC: What are some things to avoid if you have mild-to-moderate dandruff? Is it true that sleeping with wet hair can make dandruff worse?

MBB: Hair products with alcohol (like some hair sprays or gels) can dry out the scalp. Harsh shampoos or excessive use of hot tools. Scratching can worsen irritation and possibly cause infection.

Yes, it is true that sleeping with wet hair can worsen dandruff. Damp environments can encourage the growth of yeast that can cause dandruff, so it’s better to ensure your hair is dry before sleeping. You will also wake up with much-worse bed hair.

AC: I’ve seen these special combs on TikTok said to lift flaking skin from the scalp – is there any merit to investing in one of these combs or will any regular brush or comb do?

MBB: I don’t know enough about them to either recommend or not. I would say regular brushes or combs can also do a decent job if used gently. A scalp massaging brush is a good alternative as it helps with circulation while cleaning. Ultimately, the effectiveness of a trending comb depends on the technique used, so any tool that helps lift flakes without causing damage can be useful.

AC: Are there any lifestyle changes you can make to help relieve dandruff?

MBB: Eat a balanced diet rich in vitamins (especially B vitamins) and omega-3 fatty acids to promote scalp health. Manage stress as it can trigger or worsen dandruff. Stay hydrated to maintain skin moisture. Sleep well to allow your body to repair and regenerate skin cells. Avoid excessive heat styling as it can dry out the scalp.

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Consider one of these flake-fighting shampoo and conditioner duos or soothing serums to alleviate itching and restore your scalp to its best.

CZE Hair Refine Scalp Serum, $64, helps treat scalp, hair follicles and shaft with patented ingredients said to boost healthy hair growth and reduce hair loss by up to 53%. It’s especially effective for those with thinning hair or anyone battling postpartum, hormonal or stress-related hair loss. It’s the latest product to be added to New Zealand hair care founder Chloe Zara’s range of plant-powered hair care, all of which falls within her newly created Triodermis Beauty category.

O&M Original Detox Shampoo and Conditioner, $95 each, helps to clarify hair and scalp from product build-up, chlorine and oily residue with a blend of ingredients said to gently exfoliate the scalp, but without stripping colour-treated tresses.

Crown Affair The Calming Scalp Serum, $109. In the same way that your face has a skin barrier, so, too, does your scalp, and this soothing serum helps to rebalance the scalp microbiome with regular use. The spray applicator helps to dispense the formulation evenly over the scalp (try it with damp hair for best results). Hyaluronic acid works to hydrate, aloe vera to calm and soothe, tea tree oil to minimise redness and flaking, while tsubaki seed oil moisturises, reduces frizz and boosts shine.

Aveda Scalp Solutions Hydrating Hair & Scalp Masque, $90. Look no further than this masque hybrid for a weekly dose of nourishment for your hair and scalp. It’s powered by vegan squalane and a host of biotech ingredients to help alleviate scalp dryness and irritation, working to replenish hair at the root for lengths that appear smooth, shiny and hydrated.

Oribe Serene Scalp Balancing Shampoo, $87, and Conditioner, $92, salicylic acid and Oribe’s Signature Complex combine in a formulation that helps to gently exfoliate the scalp and banish dandruff while preventing hair breakage and protecting from environmental damage. It’s not just for those struggling with dandruff either, with the shampoo and conditioner duo suitable for all hair types, including coloured hair.

Act+Acre Microbiome Cooling Scalp Serum, $128. In need of instant relief from a dry, irritated or flaky scalp? Apply 2 or 3 pipettes of this soothing scalp serum to spot-treat areas affected by loose dandruff flakes or to calm a dry and itchy scalp. It harnesses Act+Acre’s unique Amino M3 Complex, a patented ingredient blend said to help balance the scalp microbiome leaving it feeling less inflamed.

Olaplex No.5 Scalp Longevity Treatment, $84. Like an anti-ageing serum but for hair and scalp, this balancing and strengthening treatment is said to protect against scalp ageing for improved hair health. The trichologist-tested formulation absorbs quickly into the scalp, helping to hydrate and soothe scalp skin while fortifying its barrier. The result? Hair that feels healthier and softer after one month of continued use.

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