At a time of life that’s enough of an emotional roller coaster as it is, 85 per cent of New Zealanders between the ages of 15 and 25 are experiencing problem skin conditions, such as acne and breakouts.
Hormones, diet and lifestyle, and hygiene can all play a
To demystify exactly what’s happening with teenage skin during this time, Viva beauty editor Lucy Slight asked two experts in the world of skin — clinical nutritionist Warren Maginn and cosmetic doctor Dr Yalda Jamali — to share their medical advice, wisdom, tips to help teens and young adults to feel more confident in their own skin.
Why do teens experience skin issues such as acne?
Teenagers often experience changes in their skin, one of the most common being the appearance of the condition known as acne vulgaris. “This can vary from minor skin eruptions and sporadic pimples to persistent cystic lesions that are widespread across the face and elsewhere on the body,” says Warren. “Other common skin issues such as oily skin, rashes, dermatitis and cold sores can all also tend to emerge during our teen years.”
Hormonal changes can trigger the development of acne and other skin conditions, says Dr Yalda.
“During puberty, the body produces higher levels of androgen hormones, which can cause the oil glands in the skin to become overactive,” she explains. “This leads to an excess production of sebum, which can clog the pores and cause breakouts. Linked with breakouts and acne, I often see parents worrying about longer implications such as pigmentation and scarring.”
How do diet and lifestyle play a role in teen skin?
The appearance of our skin can outwardly reflect our internal body processes, and anything that alters the level of nutrients, hormones and other important substances can affect the production of healthy skin — both positively and negatively.
“A nourishing diet, with a diverse array of essential nutrients, as well as limited exposure to inflammatory substances, can all be helpful for supporting healthy body processes and therefore the appearance of skin,” says Warren.
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Advertise with NZME.It’s not uncommon for teenagers to favour junk food over getting their 5+ A Day, but a diet high in sugar, processed foods and unhealthy fats can lead to inflammation in the body which can manifest as acne, rashes and other skin issues. Healthy skin can be supported with a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, lean proteins and healthy fats, says Dr Yalda.
She adds that stress too can have a negative impact on the skin — which, again, is a lifestyle factor experienced by many teens and young adults around exams, relationships and in struggles with mental health.
“Stress management techniques such as meditation, yoga, and deep breathing can help to reduce stress and support healthy skin,” suggests Dr Yalda. “And while we are on the topic of lifestyle, adequate sleep and regular exercise can improve circulation, reduce inflammation, and promote healthy skin. Changing out of gym gear and showering immediately after working out is essential to prevent breaking out or skin irritation too.”
What’s a good skincare routine for this age group?
All skin concerns are not created equal, so there’s no one size fits all solution to helping improve the condition of skin issues during the teenage and young adult years. While breakouts are one of the most common skin conditions experienced by teens, there are also people experiencing dry skin, eczema and sensitivity, which means they may need to be careful when using active, treatment-based skincare.
“It’s important to choose products that are gentle and non-irritating, but still effective at managing their skin concerns,” says Dr Yalda, who works closely with skincare brand Skin Proud.
For those with breakouts and oily skin, she recommends looking for products containing salicylic acid to unclog pores and reduce inflammation and new breakouts; benzoyl peroxide to kill the bacteria that causes acne; retinoids to promote cell turnover and improve skin texture; niacinamide to improve skin barrier function and reduce redness and hyperpigmentation; tea tree oil for its antimicrobial properties; and hyaluronic acid to draw moisture into the skin and hydrate without clogging pores.
“Suppose you are on the other end of the spectrum, with dry, sensitive and eczema-prone skin. In that case, we should be looking for skincare products that are specifically formulated to soothe and hydrate without causing further irritation or triggering a flare-up,” she says.
Her favourite ingredients for this skin type include ceramides, the natural lipids found in the skin that help strengthen the skin barrier; colloidal oatmeal, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-itch properties; shea butter, a rich emollient that helps hydrate and soothe dry, sensitive skin; and zinc oxide, which is often found in mineral/physical sunscreens and can help reduce inflammation and soothe irritation.
How can supplementing help?
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Advertise with NZME.It is becoming increasingly difficult in modern life to obtain all the nutrients we need to function optimally from our diet alone, says Warren, “even for health-conscious adults, never mind teens with growing bodies and less than ideal dietary habits.
“Some of the key nutrients for maintaining skin health would be zinc and vitamin C, being crucial cofactors for healthy collagen production; vitamins A and D for optimising skin cell differentiation and function; active B vitamins such as B6 and folate for supporting skin cell replication and turnover; and especially vitamin B5 as a hero ingredient for modulating hormone and oil metabolism in the skin, making it invaluable for supporting hormonal skin problems.”
Warren is the formulator behind supplement brand Therapure, which has a product called My Skin, designed to target the deeper layers of the skin with nutrition to support normal skin renewal processes and reduce the occurrence of pimples and skin breakouts.
What should people with these skin conditions be wary of when using makeup?
It’s a good idea to avoid heavy, oil-based products as they can easily clog pores and exacerbate existing skin issues (or lead to new ones). Look for non-comedogenic products which are specifically formulated to avoid clogging pores, or water-based, oil-free makeup.
“If you are wearing makeup, don’t forget to thoroughly cleanse your skin at the end of the day to remove all traces of makeup and prevent clogged pores. Use a gentle cleanser that won’t strip your skin of its natural oils,” suggests Dr Yalda, who recommends Skin Proud’s Velvet Cloud Cleanser.
“If you don’t wear makeup but would like to cover spots, I really recommend pimple patches. They are small, adhesive stickers that are designed to be placed directly on top of a pimple. These patches are usually made of a thin, flexible material that adheres to the skin and contains a special blend of ingredients that can help to reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and promote healing. You will find that most of them will contain hydrocolloid (a substance that absorbs excess oil and pus from a pimple, helping to flatten it and reduce inflammation), salicylic acid or tea tree oil.”
At what point is a visit to a dermatologist or skin specialist necessary?
If you believe the skin condition is pathological, whether that is acne, eczema, or dermatitis, Dr Yalda recommends seeking medical advice as soon as possible.
“Trying to self-treat these conditions often leads to compromised skin barriers and worsening skin conditions. Getting expert advice on what [you] should be using will prevent long-term damage such as scarring and pigmentation.”
These products may help soothe and reduce the appearance of irritation and breakouts
