Hairstylist Sara Allsop On What’s It Really Like To Work Backstage At New York Fashion Week

Behind the scenes at NYFW with editorial hairstylist Sara Allsop.

New Zealand-based editorial hairstylist and longtime Viva contributor Sara Allsop has spent much of her career travelling the world to work at the international Fashion Week circuit. Here, the Shark Beauty ambassador shares a glimpse into her time at this year’s New York Fashion Week in this exclusive behind-the-scenes diary.

Day One

After 15 years working behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week, the buzz backstage feels a little different for me now. As a seasoned hairstylist, I’ve learned what’s expected, mastered the backstage etiquette, and developed an understanding of what it takes to work with a variety of lead stylists. While the environment is fast-paced, one thing I know for sure: you have to get stuck in and get the job done.

For me, it’s not just about my own experience; it’s about helping new stylists feel confident in this high-energy space. Every year, I bring a team of emerging stylists with me to show them the ropes, and I can tell you – everything is brand new to them. It’s a whirlwind of nerves, excitement, and often, a little bit of confusion. That’s why I make it a priority to be with them at least for their first show. I’m right there, whispering in their ear, guiding them through the steps, making sure they understand the fast-paced world they’ve just entered.

Seeing them experience this for the first time is thrilling. For many of them, it’s a dream come true, a bucket-list moment. There’s nothing quite like watching them get their first taste of what it’s like to be part of one of the most renowned fashion events in the world.

This season, call times were pleasantly reasonable, mostly starting at 11am, which gave us time to grab a coffee and enjoy a leisurely walk to the location. The majority of shows this season were held at The Glass House in Hell’s Kitchen, a venue that I absolutely love. The views of the Hudson River are spectacular, and the space itself is a real treat. But of course, with some of the most beautiful venues come the smallest green rooms. For example, the Tribeca Synagogue, where Gabe Gordon’s show was held, was gorgeous but had a very tight backstage area. Sometimes, it feels like there’s barely enough space to move, let alone work with multiple stylists and models!

There’s also the challenge of power — especially when you’re working in older, iconic buildings. Hairdryers tend to drain a lot of power, and in some places, the system just isn’t built to handle it. You have to be strategic and make sure everything runs smoothly without overloading the system.

As I reflect on another season of NYFW, I am reminded of how much I love mentoring the next generation of stylists. It’s an honour to be part of their journey and see them grow in this incredible industry.

Backstage at Gabe Gordon

Today’s show was full of energy. The collection was called Rubber Boyfriend which brought this playful fusion of American sports vibes and quirky cheerleader energy. The looks were bold, vibrant, and a little bit offbeat, with a nod to 70s-inspired long hair that feels both nostalgic and fresh.

We used the Shark FlexStyle to craft unique textures and movement in both natural hair and wigs, adding dimension and body to each model’s bespoke look. Each hairstyle was personalised to enhance the model’s natural hair texture, celebrating individuality and shaping the hair to fit their one-of-a-kind features.

The result was a mix of retro-inspired volume, bouncy curls, and fresh, modern flair – perfectly capturing the fun, spirited attitude of a cheerleader who’s a little bit quirky and brimming with confidence.

Day Two

Today’s vibe was all about rebellion. The collection channelled the ultimate anti-coquette party girl who’s crossed the line – she’s bold, edgy and unapologetically confident. The hair mirrored that spirit, blending untamed rock ‘n’ roll energy with sophisticated blowouts. We created voluminous styles moving from low side partings to effortlessly cool, lived-in textures, chic with a touch of rebellious flair. Think a bold new take on 90s Kate Moss, a look that exudes confidence, power, and a little bit of chaos.

Backstage at Juzui

This show had a magical, whimsical vibe – a modern Alice In Wonderland with unconventional realities and dreamlike elements. The hair reflected that fantastical world with exaggerated textures and volume that felt out of the ordinary yet still had a contemporary edge.

Maye Musk, Elon Musk’s mother, also walked in the show which created a lot of buzz backstage!

The process to create these looks began with backcombing the roots to build a robust foundation, followed by a blast of volume to give the hair its full, exaggerated shape. The result was a dynamic, lived-in beehive with soft, textured peaks and valleys – playful yet polished – a nod to the past with a contemporary twist.

This look was all about embracing volume, movement, and the unexpected, capturing the magic of Wonderland while remaining rooted in classic style.

For the males, we used the diffuser attachment with a hair net to create a super sleek, smooth finish.

Day Seven

Backstage at Selkie

Today’s prep was all about 18th-century wigs, focusing on the intricate styles typical of that period, but with a twist, given the designer’s direction. These wigs were a fusion of elaborate volume, curls, and texture, all while maintaining a sense of untamed messiness as though the models had just woken up after a night of debauchery.

Top Runway Hair Trends

This season at NYFW, one of the standout trends was the strong influence of 50s and 60s-inspired hair. This wasn’t just confined to a few shows; we saw this vintage glamour right across the runway. Both men’s and women’s styles embraced bold texture and dramatic volume, channelling that iconic mid-century vibe with a fresh, modern spin.

Low, deep, side partings were a signature element, paired with either super sleek finishes or gritty, textured styles that added a touch of modern edginess.

It was a season full of experimentation, with designers and stylists pushing the boundaries, being adventurous in their approach to hair and embracing new techniques. It was exciting to see how the classics were being reinterpreted.

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My NYFW Hero Hair Products

These products were total lifesavers during NYFW. From building volume to setting styles that last through the madness, they were essential to creating some of the standout looks.

My Favourite New York Hotspots

After a long day of shows, the Lobby Bar at Hotel Chelsea is always my go-to for a chilled out drink. It has this old-school, artsy vibe – kind of nostalgic with a hint of rebellious history, if that makes sense. It’s got those vintage touches, rich velvet seating, and a laid-back atmosphere that makes it easy to relax after the chaos of the runway.

The Bowery Hotel lobby is another favourite. If you’re looking for something a little more polished but still cozy, it’s perfect. The cocktails are spot-on, and the ambiance is always gorgeous – think dim lighting, rich wood tones, and a hint of elegance. It’s the ideal spot to wind down or have a low-key conversation in style.

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