Every year, a handful of top skincare ingredients make their way into our beauty lexicon, while countless others experience transient popularity before disappearing back into the ether. Such is the ephemeral nature of the world of beauty.

In 2021, consumers demanded more from their beauty routines (makeup included), seeking out hardworking actives and hero ingredients to rejuvenate and restore skin at a deeper level.

Rather than shop for cult-favourite products, consumers keenly tracked down cult ingredients in a bid to broaden their skincare knowledge.

Certain skincare ingredients skyrocketed, ranging from the proliferation of cannabidiol (CBD) to the rise of bakuchiol, which is now regarded as nature's best answer to retinol.

As we hurtle towards the end of 2022, it’s clear this year has brought with it an increased demand for plant-based alternatives (which have been tested in a clinical setting), as well as the collective preference for anti-inflammatory or anti-stress skincare, which serves to slow down oxidative damage and fortify the skin against environmental aggressors.

With evidence of this inclination toward anti-inflammatory, barrier-strengthening active ingredients, we have a good grasp of what’s trending now. Here, discover seven active ingredients that are setting the new standard for beauty in 2022.

Japanese indigo

Revered for its soothing properties, this botanical ingredient promises to impart its restorative and calming powers on irritated skin, leaving it feeling more comforted and nourished. Its anti-inflammatory, barrier-fortifying properties make it an excellent option for those who suffer from eczema or rosacea, not to mention its distinctive blue hue makes the ritual of applying your skincare all the more pretty. Consider Tatcha The Indigo Overnight Repair, $150, a serum-moisturiser hybrid which serves to calm skin and rebalance its microbiome.

Retinal

Retinol walked so retinal could run, and in 2022 retinal is being touted as the vitamin A derivative of choice for those who wish to supercharge their results but with less irritation. Also known as retinaldehyde, retinal works much faster than its predecessor but is less drying on the complexion, and boasts the added benefit of being anti-bacterial making it an excellent option for blemish-prone skin. Try Raaie Skincare Yellow Moonbeam Retinal Elixir, $143, an overnight elixir that couples encapsulated retinal with clinically proven actives and locally sourced botanicals to firm, plump and retexturise skin.

Copper peptides

Metallics aren't just taking over makeup, with ingredients like copper peptides catching our eye while studying the INCI lists of our newfound favourite serums. The skin-restoring ingredient penetrates deeply into the epidermis, stimulating the production of both collagen and elastin. The multi-tasking skincare must-have is also said to bring down inflammation and improve circulation. Find it in Perricone MD Cold Plasma Plus Advanced Face Serum, $253, a fast-absorbing serum that restores luminosity, firmness and elasticity to skin, or The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%, $63, a water-based serum that targets multiple signs of ageing at once.

Blue tansy

Despite its moniker, the blue tansy flower is actually yellow. Its blue colour is the result of the distilling process, whereby the flowers and stems release a chemical compound known as chamazulene which transforms into a deep blue hue when heated. Part of the chamomile family, blue tansy is a powerful skin soother, thanks to its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. More than that, it also helps to clarify skin and clear congested pores, making it an excellent option for acne-prone skin. Consider the Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil, $179, a nighttime retinol treatment oil that sees the resurfacing ingredient paired with blue tansy to soothe redness and irritation in the same step.

Niacinamide

It's been two years since antioxidant-rich niacinamide first appeared on our radars, and the ingredient continues to go from strength to strength thanks to its suitability to acne-prone skin. The complexion wunderkind helps target acne and reduce blemishes by balancing oil production and minimising pore size. You'd expect an ingredient of this ilk to be more astringent than soothing, but here the opposite is true niacinamide reduces skin irritation and boosts hydration levels in the skin, leaving it brighter and clarified. Discover it in the Ethique Quench Moisturiser, $45, alongside hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 and jojoba to attract moisture to the skin without adding any extra oil or shine.

Plant-based ceramides

Also known as the building blocks of skin, ceramides quite literally hold the cells of the skin's barrier together, meaning they're powerhouses when it comes to strengthening the skin barrier and soothing its surface. The emphasis on barrier repair is not new but all the more important now with our penchant for active skincare and the aggressive nature of the environment in which we live. Synthetic ceramides are the most common, but lately plant-based versions have been gaining prominence, with consumers opting for ceramides derived from kūmara, wheat and rice. Try Trilogy Vitamin C Ceramide Night Cream, $59, which couples plant-based ceramide III with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and Kakadu plum to smooth the appearance of lines and wrinkles overnight.

Bakuchiol

Upheld in K-beauty for its resurfacing and smoothing effects, bakuchiol is a gentler, plant-based alternative to retinol that promises to achieve a similar outcome but minus the drying or irritating side effects. Whether you’re wanting to target the visible signs of ageing, reduce pore size, or brighten a dull visage, bakuchiol gets a gold star when it comes to driving skin towards a smooth, supple complexion. Tronque Exfoliating Serum, $145, sees bakuchiol blended with a host of face-worthy ingredients, including New Zealand sauvignon blanc and pinot noir grapes (but don’t try to drink it), alongside kiwi, citrus, bilberry, sugarcane, sugar maple, vitamin B3 and pineapple enzymes to gently exfoliate skin.