Less is more, especially when a master is wielding the brushes, as seen at Dior Haute Couture spring 2016 Paris Fashion Week show. Peter Philips, the house’s makeup creative and image director, chose a pared back look in keeping with Raf Simon’s take on relaxed luxury dressing. Flawless faces, most tinged with a touch of rosy nude on lids and lips and a standout few with either a stronger black lined eye or a deeper cranberry kiss of colour complimented contemporary silhouettes.
Philips explained: "only a few groups of models, in the middle and at the end of the show, wore an intense shade of red lipstick. The idea was to create a "coup de Trafalgar" and revive the memory of the red looks thus named by Christian Dior, who would send these flamboyant designs out in the middle of a show to take the audience by surprise."
Hair by Guido Palau was worn parted, smoothed and cinched back into a large, low soft chignon, with floating strands.
To achieve the Philips’ effect try these tricks:
- For the luminous complexion seen on all models in our backstage photographs, Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation was blended to even out and illuminate skin. A few touches of Diorskin Star Concealer and a light dusting of Poudre Nude Air added finishing touches.
- For the first unobtrusive lip look the neutral shade Fix It was applied to revive natural lip colour.
- The second look featured a fiery red lip outlined with Crayon Contour Lèvres in Rouge Royal. Philips then applied Fabuleuse, a highly pigmented red shade of Diorific Mat. Next, to create the shaded effect, he added a darker touch of Crayon Contours Lèvres in Prune Troublant, blended with the deep red Diorific Mat Troublante, to the centre of the lower lip. By blending the edges a little, the lip line was softened slightly.
- For the bold eye, Philips applied Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof black eyeliner at the lash line to extend it horizontally. Followed by multiple coats of Diorhsow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof Mascara over Diorshow Maximiser 3D for a thick heavy lash.
- For the nude eye look, a light, iridescent shade was used from the centre of the 5-Couleurs Palette in Escapade.
- Nails were dressed in an intense shade of plum that was almost black, in Dior Vernis 970 Nuit 1947."
