A member of the British Association of Dermatologists is urging people to cut down on their use of at-home gel nail polish manicures after a growing number of consumers are developing “life-changing” allergies.
In April 2023, the BBC reported that the British government’s Office for Product Safety Standards was investigating reports of nails loosening or falling off, skin rashes and in rare cases, breathing difficulties, associated with the use of DIY gel polish kits.
These readily available, and popular, kits contain gel nail polish which requires UV light to cure or set, but because UV lamps don’t work with every type of gel, sometimes the chemicals in the gels do not dry properly, which can lead to the polish penetrating the nail bed and surrounding skin, causing irritation and allergies.
Angeline Kapp, director of Creative Nails in New Zealand, the company which manufactures and distributes professional-only gel polish product Shellac and at-home polish range Vinylux, says here in New Zealand, there are regulations in place to ensure the safety and quality of cosmetic products, however, “it is still possible for brands to circumvent these regulations or make misleading claims about the safety or effectiveness of their products.”
If you’re using an at-home gel system, the best protocol to ensure your safety is to perform a patch test first, to check if you are allergic or sensitive to the product.
“Choose a small area of skin and clean it thoroughly with soap and water,” says Angeline. “Apply a small amount of the nail polish (and let it dry) or gel polish to the area and cover it with a band-aid. Leave the patch in place for at least 24 hours, keeping the area dry and avoiding any contact with water.”
If there is no reaction after this time, you can safely use the product on your nails, however, if you develop redness, itching, swelling, or other signs of irritation, remove the patch immediately and wash the area with soap and water.
“It’s essential to perform a patch test for each new nail product you use, as even products from the same brand or line may contain different ingredients that could trigger an allergic reaction,” she explains.
If you suspect you are having an allergic reaction to gel polish manicure you have had done professionally, contact your nail technician or salon immediately and follow their instructions.
For reactions that occur from at-home kits, Angeline says the first step is to remove the polish immediately using an acetone-based nail polish remover then wash the affected area thoroughly with soap and water. You can also apply a cold compress to the affected area to reduce swelling and itching.
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Advertise with NZME.“Over-the-counter antihistamines or topical corticosteroids can also help alleviate symptoms,” she says. “If the reaction is severe or does not improve, seek medical attention from a doctor who may recommend a dermatologist. They may prescribe something or recommend additional steps to manage the reaction. Once a true reaction has occurred, the allergy will remain to that ingredient.”
If you prefer to do your manicures at home and love the long-lasting effects of gel products, Angeline says to look for polishes, such as Vinylux, which don’t require a lamp to cure them. While you may not get quite the level of longevity as you would from Shellac (the professional version) there is peace of mind in the fact that both have a proven track record of safety and quality — and there is much less risk of a reaction occurring.
Google is your friend here; before you make a purchase, research the brand and its safety protocol, and read customer reviews. If you have a history of allergies or sensitive skin, see if you can consult with someone from the brand directly (DM them on Instagram if you need to!) and remember to give yourself enough time to patch test.
When it comes to polishes that require lamps for curing, Angeline says it is recommended that this is always done at the hands of a professional, and don’t be afraid to ask questions to ensure your safety.
Questions to ask your nail technician if you’re trying somewhere new
“By asking these questions, you can ensure that your nail technician is using safe and high-quality products and following proper procedures to minimise the risk of adverse reactions,” says Angeline. “If you have any concerns or questions, don’t hesitate to speak up and discuss them with your nail or beauty professional.”
1. Have you completed any training or certification courses to use gel polish safely and effectively?
2. Do you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using the gel polish and curing lamp?
3. What brand of gel polish do you use, and can you provide me with the ingredient list?
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Advertise with NZME.4. Are your gel polishes “5-free” or “7-free,” meaning they are formulated without harmful chemicals like formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP?
5. Do you use a UV or LED lamp to cure the gel polish?
6. How do you sterilise your tools and sanitise workstations to prevent the spread of infections?
7. Have you had any customers experience adverse reactions to the gel polish or curing lamp, and how do you handle these situations?
