Everyone’s getting different amounts of Botox these days. Why does it vary so much?
This week’s Ask the Beauty Editor sees one reader write in with a query on the difference between injectables.
Dear Ash,
I was at dinner with friends last week when the topic of Botox and filler
To that end, another friend of mine purchases a vial but it can be split between appointments to save money. Do most clinics offer this? Is it safe?
Thanks!
Frown-Free Girlie
Dear Frown-Free Girlie,
Firstly, let me say I love this question!
This has been a hot topic amongst my friends also, there’s a handful of us who have just started to try appearance medicine tweakments, while others have been on the Botox bandwagon for some time now.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.To answer your query, I tapped two skin experts who are well-versed in injectables, with a combined 30+ years of experience in the industry.
Dr Ellen Selkon from Clinic42 has spent the past 15 years working in cosmetic medicine, while registered nurse injector of 20 years Bridgette Lawrence is a senior clinical director at Caci and owns two clinics in Palmerston North.
Our experts agree that the amount of filler or anti-wrinkle needed when treating a patient varies depending on the individual and the result they want to achieve.
At Clinic42, Dr Selkon says the team looks at an individual’s entire face to ensure a harmonious balance between features before reaching for the needle.
“[An individual’s] inherent muscle milk and strength will play a role in determining the amount of filler or anti-wrinkle, and their descent and loss of volume in a specific area will determine the type and how much filler is required,” she says.
This personalised approach is echoed at Caci, where Lawrence says the preference is to only prescribe what’s needed, rather than offering bundles or set units per area to be treated.
“You do see this being offered sometimes with a price offer to encourage purchasing more product than someone may actually need, regardless of what is going to get the best results for the individual.”
Frown-Free Girlie, you’re right in thinking that the dosage varies from brand to brand, as each one has different properties meaning the IU (International Units) differs to achieve a therapeutic result.
This is typically indicated in the price per unit, Lawrence says. “While some brand’s price per unit may be lower, more units are required to get the same result, as product with a higher price per unit,” she says.
As far as fillers go, Dr Selkon says they range in type from firm (to create structure and mimic bone) to soft, fine-line fillers. “If you are volumising an area you will often need more filler as this often replaces fat loss,” she says, adding bone and facial structure as well as degree of fat loss is something to factor in.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.There’s no gold standard when it comes to a recommended amount of filler or anti-wrinkle per injection point in the face, our experts agree, stating it depends on the needs of the individual and is dosed at the discretion of the injector (so choose wisely!).
However, Dr Selkon says in some cases the higher dose of Botox (to a certain degree) the longer it will likely last.
A slowly-slowly approach is what will achieve the most natural-looking results, and Dr Selkon says Clinic42 injectors take a conservative approach at the initial appointment.
“You always under-treat as the full effects take a few weeks to show themselves. A good injector should have a good eye and know this,” she says.
“This is also where different modalities and combinations may be required to achieve results so you don’t just overfill an area.”
Lawrence agrees, saying experienced injectors will have a comprehensive knowledge of the product they’re using (also known as its rheology), and its behaviour in vivo (in the tissue). “There can be up to a 20 per cent further volumisation, depending on the product’s rheology,” she says.
“Extensive knowledge of anatomy is vital for placing the product not only in the correct position on the face, but also within the correct layer, as there are up to 10 different layers in the face. An over-filled appearance not only comes from too much filler, but poor product choice and incorrect injection technique.”
Our experts agree it’s not a good idea to save or split vials of filler or anti-wrinkle, as this can compromise the sterility of the product and lead to disease or infection.
It’s concerns like this that call for great regulation of the industry, to ensure benchmarks are established about the amount of filler or anti-wrinkle dispensed in any one treatment, and by whom.
“We need tighter regulations for injecting filler and anti-wrinkle treatments. At present we have all sorts of people injecting filler who have not had the correct training in treatments and consultation processes,” Dr Selkon says.
“Only a doctor or registered nurse who has undertaken an accredited course should be injecting. This is a medical procedure and not a beauty therapy treatment.”
More beauty editor advice
You asked, Ashleigh Cometti answered.
How do I even out my tan lines? A dress dilemma has one reader bothered by bikini top tan lines.
Does laser hair removal hurt? As summer beckons, one reader asks for the ins and outs of laser hair removal.
How can I stop my skincare from pilling? Help! My skincare keeps balling up instead of sinking in.
How do I conceal a pimple without drawing attention to it? One makeup artist shares her tips on how to disguise a zit before a big event.
