Ask The Beauty Editor: ‘I Have Acne Scarring & My Skincare Isn’t Helping. What Should I Do?’

By Lucy Slight
Viva
Collage / Julia Gessler

Dear Beauty Editor,

I have hyperpigmentation and sunspots, and I’m also dealing with some old acne scarring. I have a great skincare regime that I feel is targeted to my needs but to be honest, it just doesn’t seem to be cutting it. Is there a specific type of professional

From,

Pretty Patchy

Dear Pretty Patchy,

It’s great that you’ve been using a targeted range of skincare, but sometimes we need to bring the professionals in to really get your skin cells turning over and those active ingredients penetrating deeper into the skin.

I recently sat in on a Dermapen4 session, led by Dr Andrew Christie, who is the world’s leading aesthetic micro-needling specialist. I was blown away by the technology, along with the before and after images of patients who had been receiving treatment for a wide range of skin conditions on both the face and body.

Dermapen4 is a world-renowned, fully digital micro-needling technique which stimulates the natural healing and recovery process in the skin to increase the production of new collagen and elastin. It works on minimising hyperpigmentation and acne scarring, along with a number of other skin conditions including enlarged pores, stretch marks and cellulite, fine lines and wrinkles, and existing acneic skin.

Since one of your concerns is hyperpigmentation, let’s dive a little deeper into that first. Hyperpigmentation refers to the darkening of certain areas of the skin, caused by an overproduction of melanin. When we talk about pigmentation, we’re referring to conditions such as sunspots, melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The Dermapen4 utilises micro-needling technology to create controlled micro-injuries on the skin’s surface, stimulating collagen and elastin production. This process helps to fade hyperpigmentation by encouraging the growth of fresh, healthier skin cells.

By creating tiny micro-channels in the skin, Dermapen4 facilitates the absorption of topical treatments, such as serums and brightening agents. This allows for more effective penetration of these products into the deeper layers of the skin, maximising their benefits in combating hyperpigmentation. There are different serums available to use in conjunction with Dermapen4, which your practitioner will choose based on your individual skin concerns.

Dermapen4′s adjustable needle depth also allows for personalised treatments, ensuring that specific areas affected by hyperpigmentation (or the other aforementioned skin concerns) receive the appropriate level of stimulation and ensure the most successful outcome.

When it comes to acne and other scarring, Dermapen4′s micro-needling technique triggers the body’s natural healing response, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. This process helps to fill in atrophic scars, resulting in a smoother and more refined skin texture.

The process of a Dermapen4 session first involves thoroughly cleansing and exfoliating the skin, to ensure there is no makeup or other residue which may impact the device. Next, a disinfectant is applied to the skin which has antibacterial, antimicrobial, antifungal and anti-spore properties, to make the environment as sterile as possible.

Sterility is a key component of the treatment, with every part of the treatment involving single-use equipment and skincare solutions. The Dermapen4 device itself is covered in a sterile, single-use layer too to ensure there is no contamination, and single-use needle cartridges are also used.

The specific serum chosen to meet your skin’s needs is then applied, which not only contains a number of active ingredients including hyaluronic acid, retinaldehyde and vitamin C, but it also helps to create the right amount of slip for the Dermapen4 wand to be able to work its way across the skin quickly and efficiently.

The speed at which the Dermapen4 is used on the skin is to ensure the oscillation is distributed across the skin with the minimal amount of discomfort for the patient. The skin specialist will adjust the needle depth as they go throughout the treatment, depending on the area of the face and the skin concern.

Once completed, the puncture channels in the skin remain open for seven minutes, so the remaining solution is quickly removed before an anabolic chemical peel is applied to the skin, with the active ingredients travelling down through the open channels, leaving the dermis intact. You will experience a slight stinging at this point, but it usually only lasts for around 10 seconds.

A cooling sheet mask is then applied, which provides instant relief from the chemical peel and infuses the skin with more actives including hyaluronic acid, zinc, sodium, magnesium, iron and copper ferments, along with provitamin B5. Once the mask is removed, any remaining solution from the serum vial used during the procedure is pressed into the skin and then a ‘liquid bandage’ containing a broad-spectrum SPF and probiotics to rebalance the skin’s microbiome, is applied. The slight tint of this product also helps minimise some of the redness in the skin, to allow you to go about your day.

Any redness in the skin will appear like a mild sunburn and should only last for a couple of days at the most. The treatment is very quick under an hour so it can be done in your lunch break as the downtime is minimal for most people.

While you will see results after one session, anywhere from around four to six sessions are often recommended to ensure you achieve maximum, long-lasting results.

Dermapen4 treatments can only be administered by Dermapen Gold Authorised Treatment Providers. A full list of clinics can be found by visiting Probeauty.co.nz

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