Looking to refresh your stash of makeup brushes? Celebrity makeup artist Rae Morris shares her picks of the best brushes to add to your kit.
It all started with a tube of lip gloss.
The year was 1993, and a then 19-year-old Rae Morris was working backstage as a hairdresser
Amid the chaos before the pageant began, supermodel and judge Naomi Campbell turned to Rae to fix her lipgloss.
As she swiped lipgloss over Naomi’s lips, the paparazzi arrived and captured countless images of the pair prepping for the stage. As chance would have it, this was the first of many career-defining moments for the now-renowned celebrity makeup artist.
A quarter-century later, Sydney-based Rae has been recognised as Australian Makeup Artist Of The Year four times, and worked as the technical director for L’Oreal Paris for the better part of a decade.
Her work has graced the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie-Claire, and has worked on the complexions of big-name celebrities spanning Cate Blanchett, Miranda Kerr, Kylie Minogue and Jessica Biel.
Dissatisfied with the range of brushes available (and after using scissors to mould brushes into the shapes she actually wanted), Rae revealed her first makeup brush collection in 2012.
Handcrafted in Japan, each brush is dotted with micro-crystal fibres, a vegan-friendly, antibacterial material that closely mirrors the natural bristles and allows seamless blending or buffing, or depositing pigment with ultimate precision. Not to mention every brush handle features a magnetic functionality for ease of use and hygiene.
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Advertise with NZME.Below, Rae shares her top picks of the best kinds of brushes to build out your makeup kit, along with tips on what to look for when shopping the shelves.
ASH COMETTI: What are the five makeup brushes everyone should have in their makeup kit, and why?
RAE MORRIS:
1. Foundation Brush
A foundation brush is essential for creating a flawless, polished base. It ensures your foundation is buffed seamlessly into the skin, providing an even, natural finish.
Pictured below, from left: Rae Morris Jishaku #27: Mini Radiance, $174; Dior Backstage Light Coverage Fluid Foundation Brush No.11, $80; Rare Beauty Liquid Touch Foundation Brush, $62.
2. Pointed Kabuki Brush
A pointed kabuki brush, like my #1 or #2, is a versatile tool perfect for contouring, blush, and precise powder application. Having two is ideal — one for mattifying your skin and the other for shimmer or shine, keeping products separate.
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Advertise with NZME.Pictured below, from left: Rae Morris Jishaku #28: Kabuki, $240; Sigma Beauty F83 Curved Kabuki Brush, $68; Fenty Beauty Face & Body Kabuki Brush 160, $58.
3. Angled Brow Brush
An angled brow brush with point technology is a must for precision. It creates feather-like hair strokes, doubles as a liner brush and can be used to clean and sharpen brow or liner edges.
Pictured below, from left: Rae Morris Jishaku #16.5 Deluxe Brow Definer Brush, $126; Hourglass Angled Liner Brush, $64; Aleph Liner/Brow Brush, $43.
4. Eye Brush For Hooded Eyes
If you have hooded lids, a brush like my 6.5 is designed to create beautiful contours and open up your eyes. Choose one with a pointed shape that fits your lid space for the best results.
Pictured below, from left: Rae Morris Jishaku #6.5: Angle Eye Blender, $108; Zoeva 234 Smoky Shader Brush, $33; Make Up For Ever 226 Medium Shader Brush, $48.
5. Eye Brush For Contouring
For blending and defining eye shapes, a pointed eye brush in the right size (small, medium, or large) is key. It helps create soft, blended contours that make your eyes look larger and more defined.
Pictured below, from left: Rae Morris #8 Medium Point Shader Brush, $96; M.A.C 224S Tapered Blending, $72; Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Blurring Brush, $81.
AC: What should our readers look for when shopping for makeup brushes?
RM: “Shape: Look for brushes that hold their shape without stray hairs.
Dyes: Avoid brushes with dyed bristles (e.g. pink or rainbow), as the dye can leak into foundation shades.
Weight: Handmade brushes are typically lightweight, allowing you to feel the face as you work.
Fibres: Opt for high-quality synthetic fibres for versatility. My vegan brushes are unique, working seamlessly with powders, creams, liquids, and skincare products, thanks to their hair-like cuticle structure.”
AC: How should your technique change depending on the brush you’re using? Do you have to be quite light of hand with some, but can be a heavy-handed with others?
RM: “The pressure you use with brushes really depends on the type of brush. With foundation brushes, you can be more heavy-handed — think of it like polishing a car. You want to buff the product into the skin firmly, but without crushing the bristles. For pointed brushes, like liners or eye brushes, it’s different story. Use a light hand and just place the product on the tip of the brush. The firmer bristles do the blending for you when you add just a little pressure.”
AC: The million-dollar question: how often should we be cleaning them? And with what?
RM: “For personal use, clean your brushes once a week, especially those used around the eyes. For a quick clean, use an alcohol-based sterilising spray – it dries in seconds and lets you switch between products with minimal brushes. For a deeper clean, wash them once a month with dishwashing liquid or Sard Wonder Soap. Avoid conditioners or anything waxy, and ensure brushes dry at an angle or hang upside down to prevent water from seeping into the handle.”
AC: How long should your makeup brushes last you before they need replacing?
RM: “Handmade Japanese brushes can last a lifetime with proper care. Use protective cases or mesh covers for travel and avoid squashing them into tight spaces. When washing, don’t let water seep into the ferrule or use hot water near the glue, as it can cause damage or mould. My brushes feature magnets for drying upside down, but if yours don’t, dry them at an angle. Treat your brushes like fine pens or jewellery, and they’ll last forever.”
AC: What’s your hot tip for preventing eyeshadow fall-out when using an eyeshadow brush?
RM: “Use cream eyeshadows to reduce fall-out – they grip powders better, require less product, and minimise mess. If you’re using powders, choose high-end brushes with tight cuticles that hold product well. Cheaper natural or synthetic brushes without a cuticle tend to cause fall-out. Finally, avoid overloading your brush – tap off excess product before applying.”
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