This summer, Viva Premium is revisiting the best and biggest stories of the year. This article was originally published in October.
With melanoma rates on the rise, a skin cancer doctor shares her rules for staying protected.
For a product considered one of beauty’s non-negotiables, plenty of misinformation remains
Is that foundation cocktailed with SPF15 enough protection? Can one layer applied first thing in the morning last all day? Can you skip sunscreen if you have a deep complexion? Can we believe every natural sunscreen trend we see on TikTok?
The resounding answer to all the above is no – and there’s no good reason to not apply (and reapply) sunscreen daily.
Don’t take our word for it either, there’s a horde of dermatologists in Aotearoa and across the globe to back this up. As the professionals who deal with the aftermath of a lack of proper sun protection, who better to dish out advice on the best sunscreens to use, and how.
For Dr Monique Mackenzie, a dermatologist, skin cancer expert and co-founder of the New Zealand Dermatology Registrar Group, most patients who visit her in clinic are more clued up about the importance of sunscreen use than ever.
“People are far more aware of the effect of the radiation from the sun and its relation [over time] to skin cancer,” she says, speaking to Viva in Queenstown as part of a La Roche Posay-hosted event.
“We still recommend that everybody, regardless of skin tone, is vigilantly protecting their skin – including using sunscreen and being mindful of what time they’re outside.”
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Advertise with NZME.Thankfully, the ritual of applying sunscreen has newfound appeal, largely due to the latest formulas that eschew drawbacks like a white cast or strong aroma, instead promising a weightless feel and transparent application.
Some go as far as including ingredients formerly reserved for skincare only, such as hyaluronic acid, although Dr Mackenzie says it’s best to select a sunscreen where its primary purpose is to protect skin from the sun.
“I wouldn’t recommend a sunscreen that claims to have cosmetic benefits because it doesn’t work like that. If you’ve got a cosmetic concern or a skin condition that needs to be assessed formally, then it has its own set of separate treatments,” she says.
“You want to be clear, not mix what you’re trying to achieve.”
What to look for when choosing a sunscreen
At a minimum, Dr Mackenzie’s laundry list of requirements when shopping for sunscreen includes seeking out a sunscreen’s sun protection factor (SPF) of 50+ – and nothing under.
“Often people say they wear sunscreen daily, but that might only be a moisturiser with factor 15 or factor 30, which isn’t considered adequate from a specialist dermatology point of view,” she says.
“Currently, we’re not recommending over and above 50+. There are some sunscreens that do make those claims, so they’re going to be at least 50.”
Last year, the legislation around labelling sunscreen changed, making it compulsory for all sunscreen brands sold in NZ and Australia to adhere to sunscreen product safety standards and supply that information on the label.
Next, Dr Mackenzie says to look out for the words “broad-spectrum”, which defends against the harmful effects of ultraviolet light, more commonly known as UVA and UVB rays.
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Advertise with NZME.Ultraviolet (UV) light is electromagnetic radiation of wavelengths of 10-400 nanometres, making them shorter than visible light but longer than X-rays.
Dr Mackenzie references the spectrum of ultraviolet light that measures light energy coming from the sun as divided into bands: UVB ranges from 280-320 nanometres, while UVA sits between 320-400 nanometres.
“The higher the number, the longer the wavelength. That’s where UVA and UVB differ – UVB is more energetic, meaning it’s more harmful to DNA and the main contributor for causing skin cancer, but it doesn’t penetrate as far down into the skin,” she explains.
“UVA is less damaging to DNA, but it can cause a lot of stress on the skin over long periods of time. It goes into the deeper layers, which is why it contributes quite significantly to ageing as well.”
About 90% of UV radiation we receive on Earth is from UVA, while 10% is UVB, Dr Mackenzie adds.
La Roche Posay is just one of the brands Dr Mackenzie regularly recommends to patients, alongside physical sunscreens designed for outdoorsy types, or low-sensitising formulations that won’t aggravate inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or dermatitis.
Zinc, a key ingredient found in mineral (or physical) sunscreen, boasts anti-inflammatory properties, which is particularly helpful for those with inflamed skin.
“Physical blockers are quite good for sensitive skin types because [the sunscreen] doesn’t cause any reaction with the skin, it’s sitting on top and reflecting the sun’s rays,” Dr Mackenzie says.
On the flip side, chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays into the skin before converting them into heat and releasing them from the body. They do so with active ingredients like octinoxate and avobenzone – which Dr Mackenzie warns against if your skin is particularly sensitive.
If you do experience a reaction to your sunscreen, take it to your dermatologist who can test sunscreen and identify any chemicals that you may be sensitive to.
How much and how to apply
In terms of how much sunscreen to use and where to put it, Dr Mackenzie advises smoothing on one teaspoon of sunscreen to cover the face and neck — an amount that is a lot more than people realise.
If using the proper amount of sunscreen leaves your face feeling slightly shiny, Dr Mackenzie’s hack is to wait for 20 minutes for it to settle into the skin slightly before going in with makeup over the top.
For the rest of the body, Dr Mackenzie says proper coverage equates to nine teaspoons of sunscreen, but adds people should be covered up mostly with clothing instead.
“Nobody should need that much because I wouldn’t want you that exposed to the sun. Ideally, you’d be doing your face, behind your ears, backs of your hands, neck and decolletage, perhaps your ankles or lower legs, and hopefully, the rest of you is covered,” she says.
“While wearing sunscreen is an important part, the next level up from that would be around what times of day you’re outside, and the clothing you use to cover up your body like hats and sunglasses, too. People aren’t aware that the sun can damage the back or front of the eyes.”
An often-forgotten spot, Dr Mackenzie says she performs skin cancer surgeries on people’s eyelids “almost daily” using a special technique caused micrographic surgery. This is the first step in removing eyelid tumours before an ocular plastic surgeon can repair the eyelid.
The delicate skin here is especially prone to non-melanoma types of skin cancer, like basal cell carcinomas or squamous cell carcinomas, Dr Mackenzie says.
It’s for this reason Dr Mackenzie advises applying sunscreen beneath your eyes up to your lash line (not on it because sunscreen can irritate your eyeballs or block the lubricating glands that moisturise eyes) and over your eyelid down towards the lash line, with sunglasses on top.
A timely reminder, given October marks Melanoma Awareness Month. The statistics on melanoma rates in Aotearoa make for bracing reading: every year, more than 7000 melanomas* are diagnosed and about 300 people will die from the disease.
However, if detected and treated early enough, melanoma is almost always curable, says Melanoma New Zealand chief executive Andrea Newland.
“It is essential for New Zealanders to develop good, sun-smart habits from an early age. As you get older, the build-up of UV exposure over your lifetime leads to damaged skin and an increased likelihood of melanoma. Plus, it should be part of a regular health routine to check your own skin regularly so you will be aware of any changes,” Newland says.
Keep a keen eye on spots, freckles or moles that are new or have changed in colour, shape or size, become sore, itchy or bleed, are firm, raised or growing.
“We would prefer people not to develop skin cancers by protecting their skin early and over a lifetime,” Dr Mackenzie says, adding skin cancer surgeries can be stressful and uncomfortable.
“Sun protection should be part of your daily routine. It has to be because the sun’s not going away. The Earth is gradually getting a little bit warmer every year, and it’s not a problem we’re going to solve easily.”
New product pick
La Roche Posay’s new Anthelios UVMUNE 400 is the brand’s most advanced UV filter technology to date, levelling up broad-spectrum protection to a new realm.
A decade in the making, the formula highlights a multi-patented filter known as Mexoryl 400, which is said to protect against the harmful effects of long-wavelength UVA rays (from 380 nanometres upwards).
La Roche Posay claims its newest addition is the brand’s most robust formula yet. It has an improved level of defence and provides additional cover against UVA light, which can play a part in the development of skin cancers such as melanoma.
Dr Mackenzie notes that as well as being a contributing cause to skin cancer, it can lead to “ageing, pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles”.
Alongside the brand’s bestselling Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+, La Roche Posay is reformulating three other sunscreens to include its new UVMUNE 400 filter technology – an oil-control facial fluid and two formats safe for use on children.
12 of the best sunscreens to suit every need and preference
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Clinical Anti-UV SPF50+ Fluid, $40.
Throughout October, Melanoma New Zealand and event sponsor La Roche-Posay are hosting a series of free spot checks at Westfield malls and Chemist Warehouse stores across the motu. To find the spot check event nearest you, visit Melanoma.org.nz/spot-check-events.
Ashleigh Cometti was hosted in Queenstown by La Roche Posay
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