Branded wines can give winemakers an outlet for grapes that otherwise can be hard to sell. Photo / Getty Images
Branded wines can give winemakers an outlet for grapes that otherwise can be hard to sell. Photo / Getty Images
Shed Five Thirty Estate Woolshed Red, Seresin Chiaroscuro, Elephant Hill Le Phant Rouge – what do these wines have in common? Most New Zealand wines are labelled by the name of their producer and grape variety, such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and merlot (orblends of the last two). But others don’t feature varietal names and are sold under brands.
Such branded wines can give winemakers an outlet for grapes such as chenin blanc, sémillon and riesling that otherwise can be hard to sell. However, they are mostly of high, and sometimes outstanding, quality.
Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay Le Phant Rouge 2021
★★★★½
Drinking well in its youth, this is a full-coloured blend of six varieties – mostly merlot (40%), syrah (36%), tempranillo (14%) and malbec (8%), with splashes of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Mouthfilling, vibrantly fruity and supple, it is a generous, harmonious red. Strong, plummy, spicy flavours, and savoury notes add complexity. (13.5% alc/vol) $20-$26
Seresin Marlborough Chiaroscuro 2022
★★★★½
This is a highly characterful blend of riesling (62%) and pinot gris (34%), with viognier and gewürztraminer playing minor roles. Estate-grown, it was hand-picked and fermented in old French oak barriques. Fresh and vigorous, it is medium-bodied, with very good intensity of peachy, citrusy, gently spicy flavours, considerable complexity, and a crisp, fully dry finish. Certified organic. (12.5% alc/vol) $25-$29
From Puriri Hills, this distinctive South Auckland red is the best vintage yet. Estate-grown at Clevedon, it is a merlot-predominant blend (64%), barrel-aged for nearly two years. Highly enjoyable now, it is mouthfilling, savoury and supple, with ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, seasoned with nutty oak, earthy notes adding complexity, gentle tannins and a very harmonious finish. (13.3% alc/vol) $31-$37
Obsidian Waiheke Island Reserve The Mayor 2020
★★★★★
Grown at Onetangi, this refined, youthful red is cabernet franc-based, with lesser amounts of petit verdot and malbec. Dark and purple-flushed, it has a fragrant, savoury bouquet. Full-bodied, with concentrated blackcurrant, red berry, plum and spice flavours, finely integrated oak and ripe, supple tannins, it’s already delicious, but worth cellaring, too. (14% alc vol) $58-$64
Wine of the week
Shed Five Thirty Estate Hawke’s Bay Woolshed Red 2021
Offering fine value, this is a generous blend of merlot, malbec and cabernet sauvignon. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling and sweet-fruited, with good concentration of berry, plum and spice flavours, a hint of liquorice, and ripe, supple tannins. Drink now or cellar. (14% alc/vol) $27
