‘Retirement sounds really boring,” chuckles Sir George Fistonich (83). “It’s been a stressful couple of years since I was kicked out of Villa Maria,” he admits, “and my family have also been under extreme pressure. Now I’ve launched this new wine company, I feel a whole lot younger.”
After Villa Maria’s parent company, FFWL, owned by Fistonich, was placed in receivership in 2021, Villa Maria was bought by Marlborough-based Indevin, previously best known for producing and exporting supermarkets’ “own-label” wines.
Now, the indefatigable Fistonich is back with new wine brands, including Obliix and Čuvar. Obliix was chosen to mean “doing it differently”. Čuvar (pronounced Chu-var) is Croatian for “guardian” – Fistonich is keen to “help preserve and nurture the essence of New Zealand fine wine”. The Čuvar selection has a “gateway” Iris collection, and its top wines are in the guardian category.
Other wine brands are in the wings.
And at the old Esk Valley winery and soaring terraced vineyard just north of Napier, Fistonich has plans to open a cellar door and restaurant overlooking the ocean.
Čuvar Iris Collection Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2022 ★★★★½
Already highly enjoyable, this single-vineyard red from the Gimblett Gravels is mouthfilling, with fresh plum and red berry flavours showing excellent depth, gently spicy, nutty notes adding complexity, and ripe, supple tannins. It’s a top example of the drink-young style. (13.5% alc/vol) $34
Obliix Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2022 ★★★★
Offering great drinkability, this medium-bodied red is fresh and energetic, with blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours. It shows considerable complexity, and has very good depth and harmony. (12.5% alc/vol) $30-$32
Obliix Cornerstone Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2022 ★★★★
Now at its peak, this characterful rosé is from cabernet franc, hand-harvested in the Gimblett Gravels. Pink/pale orange, it is fresh and smooth, with peachy, gently spicy flavours, a hint of apricot and a dry, lingering finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $29-$32
Oblix Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021 ★★★★
Fragrant and full-bodied, with lots of youthful drive, this vibrant wine has strong, ripe, peachy, slightly toasty flavours, fresh acidity, savoury notes adding complexity and a lingering finish. (13% alc/vol) $30
Wine of the week
Čuvar Iris Collection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ★★★★★
From one of the region’s highest vineyards, this flavour-packed wine was estate-grown 300m above sea level in the upper Awatere Valley. Bright, light lemon/green, it has fresh, penetrating, melon and green capsicum flavours. It’s crisp, lively, dry and lingering. (13% alc/vol) $29