Think France: think berets, baguettes and a bottle of Bordeaux. But one of those emblems is fast losing ground.
Tension is high in the French wine industry, triggering public protests by winegrowers facing major oversupply and financial problems. In a bid to stop prices tumbling, the French government and the EU are funding growers to uproot vineyards and turn excess wine into industrial alcohol.
What’s going on? Put simply, the French are drinking less alcohol, particularly wine. It’s hard to put a precise figure on their average wine consumption, but most estimates range from 40-47 litres per head per year. That’s well above New Zealand (16.6l), but far below the record-breaking 136l in 1926.
France was the world’s largest producer of wine last year, but a bottle of wine is no longer an inevitable part of a French meal. Only about 10% of French consumers say they drink wine every day, down from 50% in 1980. A key influence has been the gradual shift from rural to urban living – offices and shops need their employees to stay awake, so lunchtimes are typically dry.
The French government has played a key role, introducing law changes to reduce consumption. In 1956, serving wine to children under the age of 14 was banned in school canteens; in 1970, the first drink-driving law was passed; in 1991, advertising of alcoholic beverages was prohibited in cinemas and on television.
In a 2008 study, Why French millennials don’t drink wine, by Liz Thach, more than half of those interviewed stated they didn’t enjoy the taste of wine. “In the past, children in France used to be introduced to wine by their parents at the dinner table, when a small amount was added to water. In this way, they became accustomed to the taste … [Now] with sweeter beverages such as sodas and juices being the primary benchmark, the often drier, tannic, and more acidic red and white wines are not desirable.”
What about Generation Z, now 12-27 years old? Less inclined than their elders to sit at a table for three meals a day, they are attracted to bottled water, beer and cocktails. When they do accept a glass of wine, most opt for a white or rosé, rather than a red.
Wine of the week
Astrolabe Wrekin Marlborough Chenin Blanc 2023
Is this New Zealand’s finest example of our most underrated grape variety? Fermented in tanks and barrels, it is attractively scented, with mouthfilling body, strong, vibrant, peachy flavours showing a distinct touch of complexity, fresh acidity, and a dry, long finish. Best drinking 2026+. (13% alc/vol) $30
