Imagine 12 glasses of red wine lined up in front of you. All are made in varying proportions from cabernet sauvignon, merlot or cabernet franc; all are from 2019 to 2021 vintages; all are priced from $29 to $50. Six of the wines are from Bordeaux, six from New Zealand.
Bordeaux reds are prized for their elegance, complexity and longevity. But those classic red varieties have also been planted widely in Hawke’s Bay and Auckland. In a blind tasting, how well do this country’s Bordeaux-style reds, costing under $50, compare with the original?
The news is good. My average quality rating was almost identical for the French and New Zealand reds. My top Bordeaux was Chateau La Chandelliere 2019 (★★★★★, $32, but now sold out), a highly refined, ageworthy, rich red offering irresistible value.
Here are the New Zealand wines.
Mission Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
★★★★½
This estate-grown red was barrel-aged for a year. Deeply coloured, it is full-bodied, with rich, vibrant blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, nutty and savoury notes adding complexity, and ripe, supple tannins. Terrific value. (14% alc/vol) $29
Pegasus Bay Merlot/Cabernet 2021
★★★★
From estate-grown vines over 30 years old, this Waipara, North Canterbury, red can hold its own against many from further north. Dark and purple-flushed, it is vibrant, with strong, berryish flavours, woven with fresh acidity, and finely integrated oak. Best drinking 2028+. (13.5% alc/vol) $37
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Cabernet Franc 2021
★★★★
Still youthful, this single-vineyard red was hand-picked from mature vines in the Bridge Pā Triangle. Full-coloured, it is softly mouthfilling, with vibrant plum, red berry and spice flavours and showing very good depth and harmony. (13.5% alc/vol) $40
Stormwood Waiheke Island Meritage 2020
★★★★
This highly approachable red was blended principally from merlot and cabernet franc. Full-coloured and mouthfilling, it has fresh, generous plum and red berry flavours and ripe, supple tannins. Savoury and spicy notes add complexity. (13.5% alc/vol) $50
Te Mata Awatea Hawke’s Bay Cabernet/Merlot 2021
★★★★½
Grown at Havelock North and inland from Hastings, this stylish blend was aged for 17 months in French oak barriques (partly new). Satisfyingly full-bodied, it has deep blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, seasoned with nutty oak and excellent complexity and structure. (13.5% alc/vol) $40
Wine of the week
Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2020
★★★★★
Bargain-priced, this classy blend was matured for 19 months in French oak barriques (over 40% new). Dark, powerful and sturdy, it has concentrated, well-ripened blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, complex and savoury. Enjoy over the next decade. (14.5% alc/vol) $37-$45
